Lawsonmh15
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Posts posted by Lawsonmh15
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Just did a flush using the Royal Purple ATF. No more abrupt shifting. Cost a little more, but worked sweet. In addition, I added the BG Tranny conditioner and now she shifts smooth as silk.
Next up is filling up the diffs with the Redline Superlight Shockproof as Blitz reccomends.
Royal Purple claims that their ATF keeps temps down at least 20 degrees F. I can't really verify it, but I am not complaining about the end result.
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Thanks for the heads up.
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Had the hood of my Legacy open while the engine was running today, and noticed the crank pulley had a bit of a wobble in it. I've heard this can be a symptom of bad main bearings... but the car still runs perfectly, no knocks, plenty of power, runs smooth as silk, etc. Anything else I should check before assuming I have bearing issues? Could this be caused by an unevenly worn belt? Or could the pulley itself be bad?
If anything else... since the car still runs so well, barring any easy fix... any harm in running it like this?
YES!!!!!!! Your engine is NOT, I repeat, NOT ruined. Your mechanic may tell you that, but I (And MANY others) have had this happen and all that needs to be done is get a new crank pulley, and have a new woodruff key put on your crankshaft. about 3.5 hours of labor.
I can't believe some of the replies. Gary!!! Locktite???
Seriously. I've had this happen. It will NEVER be balanced until the job is done right. I did band-aid fixes for about a week then wised up and had a new crankpulley and woodruff key put on. You do NOT NEED A NEW CRANK SHAFT!!! Just the woodruff key.
If you continue to try driving it "rigged up" so the belts technically stay on, you will be giving some lucky SOB a HELL of a deal on your car. That's how my friend got his sisters' subie. His buddie drove around with the crank pulley issue for a couple of weeks until the car died on the highway. Engine = GONE. So he inherited the subie for the cost of a new engine and a tow...
Wanna be my friend?
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I use the vac line just before the coil pack. I would still like to know how the PCV Valve is the best choice for even distribution instead of the hose I have used. Here are pics my pics:
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my 4eat is very... well.. let's just say it likes to let you know it's shifting most of the time.
if i'm really lite on the gas, and dont' push her very much it smooths our nicely.. but if i drive like.. the way i do, then i feel it
Sounds about right for me too. Oddly enough. I made sure not to punch it until I had driven for about 20 mins, and the first time I did... Smooth as it should be???
I now wonder if it could be the tranny temp control mod. Any thoughts on that?
Andy, You have a PM.
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I wouldn't think the tool carrying or having all four tires overinflated temporarily would cause this, but I'm no mechanic.
If it makes you feel any better about it, my 97 has a really rough time figuring out what gear to be in and getting there for the first half mile or so in the mornings. Once it warms up it's fine, albeit Subaru's don't exactly have the smoothest feeling auto tranny, that's for sure. I haven't had a tranny flush, just drain and refills at 90K and 120K miles. Regular ATF.
Steve
So I guess this may answer my next question. Is there anyone who does NOT feel when the car shifts. I mean a slight lurch (no grinds or clunks, but just to let you know)? My buddy has an 88 olds 88 and I was amazed at how smooth his AT shifted... Until yesterday. Now his tranny won't upshift past 2nd. So I guess it's a relatively good sign that I can feel it shift.
Comments please.
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Hardshifting. What year?
My '96 shifted hard for performance reasons. However, Subaru softened it up in '98 I guess it was. My solution was to buy a 5 speed '99 Limited
:grin: :grin: :grin:99 SUS LTD
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You know, you'd think i'd remember who wrote that thread... d'oh! sorry dude
No problem man. Any thoughts or logic I haven't explored is ALWAYS welcome.
:banana: -
I have a 90 Nissan 300ZX, and consequently have followed the TwinTurbo.net forum for these cars for many years. There isn't a week go by that someone asks for a cure for hard shifting and grinding gears with their 5 speed tranny. The response from the forum members each time is to change tranny fluid to RedLine MT90. The rave reviews from members who have made the change has been simply been amazing. I've yet to make the change in my own 300 ZX (being a toy it has very few miles on it at this point), but I have done so in my 54 MG TF with very good results. It really transformed my shifting experience with this old and crude gear box. And, NO, I am not a dealer for this product, but rather a retired car enthusiast with some toys and an OBW as a daily driver.
Something tells me that might be a little thick for an auto.
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i'd check your tire circumferences... make sure they're all within 1/4" of each other. I might also try adding another ground from your neg. battery post to the engine block, this help out my 4eat alot in the shifting area, i also cleaned up all the other grounded connections, and the car was never happier! (i'll see if i can find the ground mod link for you).
You may also want to distribute the load of the tools more evenly, so when you're in the car it's relitivly evenly balanced, with all that weight on one side you could wear down those tires quicker.
Also, pull the tranny fluid dip stick, check the color of the fluid, give it a good sniff, if it smells burnt, go ahead & change it out, if it's dark red... darker than it should be
... change it. Changing the fluid can't really hurt much except your wallet.... change it a few times with a moderate drive between changes, instead of 'flushing' it, this will help get all the hidden 'snot' out of the tranny.Other than that.... i'll pass it off to someone else
Oh yeah, i beat the crap out of my 4eat, tow huge loads, other cars around, drive it hard, super-heavy loads on long road trips, lock up the center clutch pack just to keep her 'loose' sometimes
, i also carry alot of my tools around with me, most of the time... although they tend to slide around in the back 
Good luck!
4 new tires (few months) All at 8/32". HAD BEEN OVER-INFLATED BY MORON KID BY 10LBS AT LAST ROTATE/BALANCE. However, the problem has been around since BEFORE the kid who couldn't read inflated my tires.
I have PLENTY of grounds. Look for my Grounding thread. Thanks for the suggestions though.
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i think that i have Bosch plugs in!!!!!!
That'll do it. The old Platinum +4 (new plugs). Spend the extra $$$ on the Denso Iridium.
Some autozone's stock the item, otherwise it is a special order.
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Hello all,
Today on the way to work my CEL came on so i stopped by Schucks on the way home. The codes where 303 and 304, which are miss fires in the #3 and #4 cylenders. About a month ago i replaced the plugs and wires. Does any one have any suggestions on what else i should do or look for????
I did have the #4 cyl. miss fire on me 7 or 8 months ago.
1996 OB 2.5 w/165K
Thanks
hehehe. What plugs did you put in??? You MUST use the NGK's or Denso iridiums to avoid a 301/302 or 303/304 combo. If you're using NGK's, you've got a wire problem. If you are using NGK plugs, do a resistance check on your plug wires, when you find the culprit, you'll know. But replace em all anyway.
If you don't find any wires that are WAY OFF, check the resistance on your coil pack.
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mmmm. 420...................
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I will look up the seafoam I have see it on a few different threads. What does it do?
Fuel/oil drier... / cureall.
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No, I do not have any probs going into gear. However, as mentioned in SEVERAL of my other threads, I experience a Hard shift for the first few downshifts from D-3 when punching to pass. After the first couple times, It goes back to normal. The only recommendation I've gotten and NOT acted on yet is getting a tranny FLUSH instead of drain and fill.
MY QUESTION GOES TO THOSE WHO HAVE EITHER EXPERIENCED THIS, SOMETHING SIMILAR, OR GOTTEN TORQUE BIND:
How much weight were you carrying on a daily basis? Towing? Common hills? Ever find your tires inflated to 3 psi ABOVE the TIRES' max capacity?
I drive... I drive ALOT. Because I work ALOT. I keep about ~250-300 lbs worth of hand and power tools in my car at ALL times (I miss my garage). I wonder if simply carrying this weight Full time could cause this with aggressive driving. Initiall, I would say no, but then I consider that about %90 of my + tool weight is on the driver's side. If I put the power/hand tools over to the Pass. side of the trunk would that make a difference.
Sorry if this seems "dumb" to some, but this is the same vehicle that is SUPER picky about matching tire sizes and inflation amounts, so if a few pounds or a 1/2" would cause problems...
TIA.
Almost forgot: HA HA!!!
For those who understand the significance; yes I agree, it is ironic that I would ask when I have this in my arsenal. Pm for linkage.
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There is also a station in Baldwin NY that will give you an all new low gas mileage record
nipper
Hey, that station exists every couple miles in Colorado; it's called SAFEWAY.
Yeah it's great, you save $.03/gallon and get >100+ fewer miles per tank. The first time I thought there was something wrong with my car, so I bought gas at Shell I normally buy my gas from and it went back to normal. Tried again, same results. So all those super thrifty Safeway card holders are doing the smart thing, saving themselves $.45 in order to cost themselves ~$11.20 CO prices. Now THOSE are reasoning skills.
Last thing on this subject... For now.
Unless you SAW these guys "cleaning" your fuel system, It's a wise bet that you that you paid $200 to have them run $20 worth of BG 44K through your system. Sorry man, I know people who have had SERIOUS issues with clogging (Erratic Idle, Surging), bought a can of 44K, ran the whole can on a half tank of gas and achieved night/day results. Some people it has taken a couple cans but... Not $200 worth. I'd ask them to show you that corn can they showed your parents. Is that... Isn't that a skittle???
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Twenty years ago that was not the case. Clogged injectors were much more common. Today it is not uncommon for cars to last their entire service life without needing an injector flush.
Hate to do it... But Twenty years ago there were very FEW vehicles using fuel injection. I know that a friend of mine had a mid-eighties crap-maro with "cross-fire" injection, but from what I read, it was less efficient than a good carburetor. Perhaps you got more clogged venturi's, but not "injectors". Symantec's I know but...
At any rate, Yes gas was dirtier, but, was it better. I get MUCH better mileage when I travel to sea-level states with octane ratings that START at 91. In CO we use ethanol so... It sucks. Corn is for my belly and septic system; not my car.
Hopefully soon, gas will be for my lawn mower, and hydrogen will be for my car.
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Perhaps the point was to feel smarter than Subaru's design team.
I agree. Those crazy japanese engineers don't know what they're doing. I mean; they even put weird rubber covers on the plug wires going onto the coil pack. What were they thinking. If it were me, the first thing I'd do is cut those pesky boots off, then wind some small gauge wire, lets say 22G for arguments sake, then I would wind it around all the posts of the coil pack connecting them, Push what's left of the plug wires onto the posts and fire it up.
Also, I never liked the idea of connecting black to black and red to red. F it. The next thing I'd do is switch the leads coming from the ignition and ground at the battery. DC voltage is for pansies. If you BELIEVE it's AC then GD it!!! It's AC. Oh, I'd wind some 14G between the two terminals at the battery too.
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I have been having a low idle and CEL for the IACV for 6 moonths. I replaced the IACV and had everything the air intake including the TB and TPS voltage checked. I cant find a cause with a mechanical defect in the engine for the low idle and CEL. When I say low idle I mean 250-450 RPMS when it should be 600-700 RPMS. I have verified with a code reader the idle gets as low as 250rpms. So due to recent battery problems I suspect the low idle may be a electrical issue of some sort. Over the winter I thought the low idle was worse under a load(heater + stereo, subs, amp). Now that summer is here I feel the same way with the A/C load. But during the past 2 months, it has gotten significantly worse. It got so low that it stalled 2 times in 1 week. And for these stalls it was because the battery was dead. So I deal with it after the first stall by jumping it, but after the 2nd I jump it then go to sears and they test charging system and battery and say the battery is bad. So I get a new battery under warranty and the idle is better – closer to 600 now which is the lower end of a normal idle. So I think back... The problem started last October, I had to get a new battery in January AND yesterday. There is the same amount of months in between. One more fact: the CEL for the IACV come on at idle AND when the automatic transmission is downshifting on the interstate. When the car downshifts, the load coming from the charging system would change for a second. I think think there is a defect in the charging system causing the batterys to go bad and cause the CEL due to a low and or fluxuating load. The alternator was rebuilt 1.5 years ago. So when the battery progressivly goes bad and hold less and less of a charge, my idle gets crappier and crappier. Any ideas what is causing the problem??
I gotta believe it's either the Alt, or a short. Check for any loose connections. You may also want to test your coil pack and ignition. Let me know if you need the procedure for testing your coil pack.
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Ok well I see youe drag argument and I raise you 2 mpg. I too questioned the aerodynamic effect of wind blowing into the hood but I have benefitted from it.
What are you doing to keep water and debris out of the intake? Or did you not mod the intake to meet the scoop? If not... What was the point in removing the bottom of the scoop? Allow water to drip on FPR's and Coil pack???
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Idle Air Control Valve.
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There are two of these threads by differnt people floating around, so i forget who ive said what too. Best case scenario is tired fluid and some gum. Worse case scenario is internal. Usually a weak pump is a tim lag shifting from r to d.
nipper
What type of lag are you referring to. I keep my foot on the break until I feel it go into gear. Do you mean it just takes longer to engage, or do you feel it grab and jerk or what? Thanks for the help.
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Hey, you were nice enough to answer everyone else' questions, how about mine? Seriuosly though, you could have a pump seal/pressure loss issue that clears itself up when it gets warm. I wouldn't expect it on something that new, but it's a thought.
I've tried all that I can think of and no matter how it's babied, it always does it at least ONCE. I checked the level today and saw fluid out to full hot. I remember reading something about bubbles, I had a few tiny bubbles in the marking holes. Don't know if this means it is low, thin, normal or otherwise.
The weird thing was that after pulling the dipstick and wiping clean, black streaks were left on the paper towel. Wipe it clean (no streaks) re-insert, pull, black streaks on what looks like otherwise clean fluid.
Royal Purple ATF Synchromax
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Oddly enough. I have noticed a 3.5 MPG increase.
:banana:
Yeah... Nothing bad to say at all.
AndyJo I need an email.