Lawsonmh15
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Posts posted by Lawsonmh15
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yay so far two things i can do myself that doesnt violate the no twsiting bending lifting rule.. now i just need someone to open my hood for me, thats so pathetic
nipper
I forgot that you had back surgery dude. How are you doing??? Do you have to get out bed sorta like this???
LOL. JK.
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I replaced coolent temp sensor and fuel filter exactly 3 months ago. Since then, the low idle went from being fixed to gradually getting worse and is pissing me off, however, in 3 months, no stalling and no CEL. The low idle has started shaking as it did before. I notice when stopped, if I put it in neutral the shaking stops, the idle dosnt change but it gets smooth. Also, it only happens when the car is warmed up. It seems to be more problematic morning and night when it is colder. I HAVE replaced the plugs with OEM, I have been considering replacing 2 things, the plug wires with OEM and the Injectors with OEM which have never been touched (seafoam has been used recently) and currently at 73k. Another thing I will try since it is free is when it acts up, I will take the hoses off of the fuel filter and connect them directly, bypassing the fuel filter. Since the new fuel filter fixed (or maybe just masked) the problem, this might reveal some crap in the gas tank clogging up the filter. It could have taken me a few times running near empty to get it clogged back up again. It does take a few seconds when stopping for it to get low. I just got new imprezza wheels and new toyo proxis tires as well as a brake/rotor job and otherwise, the car runs and looks great and I want it to last a bit longer and keep it for a second car for snow driving and such but this problem is burning my small brain up. I need help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BG 44K. Don't follow the directions. Use one can to a HALF tank of gas for best results.
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I agree totally with nipper. My AT has now seen two complete drain/flush cycles within the past 10K miles, and 4 flushes within the past 50K miles (the result of me trying to clear torque bind with a fluid flush first, then accepting the inevitable and pulling off the extension housing to see what really needed to be done), and it is shifting gloriously better than it has for a long, long time! My mileage: 215K+
These transmissions love when you change their fluid -- its as if they have been fully reconditioned, all for only the price a case of ATF! And nipper, my old machine is perfectly happy with its new synthetic fluid -- despite your earlier concerns.
Real important... Are you FLUSHING or are you DRAINING and refilling. I've only done the latter... Once; like a year ago. TIA.
Also, how often do you need to add fluid typically? Not on cars in General (Sub. recommends 50-70K), but you in particular.
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:horse: Year and mileage and engine type. Otherwise we cant help you at all.
nipper
Damn nips, I know I've been away for a bit, but sh1t. I don't expect you to remember, but I thought I had that info in my sig.
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Vehicle? Mileage?
has the fluid ever been changed?
does the POWER light blink multiple times when you first start the car?
i'd check fluid level and look to have it changed if it never has.
99' SUS with 116K miles. Fluid changed, at good level, and I do not get the AT oil Temp light. Not sure about it blinking, but what would that mean? It doesn't stay on. Thanks for your help Gary:)
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I know it sounds odd, but check your throttle cable. This sounds a bit reminiscent of the prob. I had when I first purchased my SUS. Super easy to adjust. Even easier with two people to make sure you're not over-stressing the cable, but getting full advance. GL.
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I've been having this prob for awhile. Basically, for the first few downshifts it feels like there is a mismatch in the torque converter leading to one bad shift. This occurs when I punch to pass from 4 to 3. This is an AT. Was so bad on one occassion that I actually heard the tire chirp. Don't think it will get better on it's own. Have checked all elec connections and am now wondering if the Throttle position sensor could have anything to do with it. Also wondering if it could be IACV related. PLEASE HELP!!! Don't want to burn by tax refund on a new tranny. TIA. Oh, the weird thing is that it shifts smooth after 1-3 hard shifts, almost like the ECU finally figured it out. Let me know. Thanks again.
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I might check to see if the TPS is set correctly. Maybe O2 sensor. Sorry just guessing.
Good Luck, I feel your pain.
Beezer
If the TPS is off, you will immediately know it. Both o2's are new.
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So, just to be clear:
The new red wire shown in the 3rd picture goes straight from the black battery terminal to that bracket on the engine? In that case, did you do away with the ground from the black terminal to the chassis (near the headlamp) - or does one need that wire in addition to the engine ground?
Thanks!!
Chassis ground STAYS.
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Revival.
This is STILL driving me nuts. SOMEONE HAS to have had this happen. I'm running out of ideas. I looked at the coil pack today and noticed that 1 and 3 have slight corrosion, but 2 and 4 are clean as can be. It just so happens that the IACV is above cylinders 1 and 3 and I am wondering if this could have anything to do with this.
May be way off base, but considering there hasn't been a single person yet to hit the nail on the head, I'll reach for anything. I hate to say it, but I may have to pay a stealership to revoke my driving privileges for a day.
I hate that idea since I'm sure that there is no guarantee that their diagnosis will be correct. At any rate.
PLEASE HELP.
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Well, what do you want for it?
Would it be worth my super-long drive?
I honestly hadn't considered selling it in the past, but if you're serious about it, it is in great shape mechanically. The interior is about as good as one can expect from a 7 year old vehicle. Wear on the driver's side seat is the only prob I can think of. Even then, it's not that bad.
Exterior has a few rock chips here and there from typical CO roads. The passengers' side has a scrape along the rear fender well (been there since I've owned it) and the grill is cracked.
The only two issues with the mechanics of the vehicle are that in cold weather, you need to come to a complete stop for a few seconds in order for the Idle to drop to normal (which I HOPE I have solved tonight) and the other would be that there is a minute leak at the rear of the oil pan. I suppose I could get under there with a torque wrench and see if that's all it is, but worse case scenario, you would be looking at maybe $30 for a new gasket and a couple hours of labor, or maybe $180 in a shop. Either way, the latter is not a pressing issue. Rather, more of an annoyance. It doesn't leak enough to cause problems, or even leave a drop on the garage floor, it simply causes a minute smell of oil when stopped and running the heater without recirc. on.
Bottom line... I love this car and I can't see parting with it for less than $9k. I've put too much $$$, time, and care into it to justify selling it for less. If this is too far out of your ballpark, I'm sorry, I don't wish to barter. But, if you are serious about it, I will take some more photos of interior, exterior, undercarriage, and engine comp. However, I don't want to eat up the USMB's space to talk to you about this. If you would like to further discuss it, please PM me, or send me an Email. OR if you prefer, you can call me. (303) 917-3587. My name is Matt.
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The technical name is the crankshaft key
You can try and find a generic one, or get it from the dealer.
I thought the technical name was a woodruff key.
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I’ve done some searching here and through google. Ive read through some of them I think.
I’ve got the P0301 and P0303 codes....
I have a couple of questions I hope you guys might be able to help me with.
I’ve done all the typical tune up, wires, plugs, etc.
Just a shot in the dark, but what plugs did you use? I had the Exact codes about 7k miles after installing some Bosch Plat + 4's. However, I think that one of the connectors inside of one of the crap Napa wires was disconnected. I replaced the plugs with NGK's and the wires with OEM and smooth sailing ever since.
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Ive gotten gas probably 4 times in the past week, so I dont think its the issue, I have also sweitched gas stations thinking that may be the problem
Wow!!! Either you're getting 2 gallons per mile
, or are driving an insane amount. With winter gas, I stick at 24MPG. Summer, Hwy, ~28mpg. I'd say you have problems. Just a shot in the dark, but you may want to take a look under your drivers' side dash and see if there is a green two-prong connector connected to it's mate. If there is... That's your problem. If not... I don't know. I know first hand how it runs when connected (HORRIBLE), then again, I shut it off as soon as I heard it run. If this is not the case, I would suggest you get ahold of a Subie Specialist with a used knock sensor. In Colorado, we have two such shops. Silverstar (303) 690-1225, and Super Rupair. I wouldn't expect to pay more than $70-$90. May not be what you wanted to hear, but if you continue driving with a bad knock sensor, you WILL (from what I've read) tear your engine apart. I'll bet $70; well at that point $300 doesn't seem bad after considering the pitfall. Good Luck.Re-Read orig post, Now I'm wondering if a connector to one of your injectors is disconnected or in VERY bad shape. Just a thought.
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um.... I have to ask the question that is on everyone's mind; why would you want to? (I'm sure you must have expected this one).
No doubt!!! I'm glad this was the first reply. Why RUIN that car?!!!
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I don't know. Wha's it worth? How many miles? Pics?
Pics In many threads, 114K Mi, Replaced Timing, Crankpulley, Hood, Alternator, Plugs, Plug Wires, Fuel Filter, Front and Rear Diff. Service, Tranny Filter and fluid, Coolant Flush + Subaru Conditioner, Brand new (less than 500 miles) KYB GR-2 Struts, New (>1000 Miles) Kumho 795 A/S Tires, Tinted, Limited package. ALL maintenance records since I've owned it (Thick Pile), All oil changes done with Mobil 1 Semi.
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Wanna sell it?
How much?
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What I was trying to ask (sorry for the confusion) was whether or not an Outback lift would work on an SUS. It would, right?
If anyone knows of any for sale in the Spokane area or even Seattle or Idaho or Oregon, let me know, too. (It seems hard to find them with low miles.)
The SUS IS the legacy outback, prior to becoming the outback. I have a 99.
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yeah, I changed the knock sensor today. the old one was so nasty, the new one is so pretty. haha. it runs very nice now.
Glad to hear that you got it taken care of.
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Subaru America has said it will allow for the piston rings to be replaced on warrenty. I don't know if this is enough.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but if you had bad rings, wouldn't you be blowing a good amount of smoke?
I still haven't seen anything about replacing the vehicle. I hate to say it, but I wouldn't want the vehicle back after the engine has been pulled and torn down by techs who have been given instructions of, "make it stop using so much oil". From personal experience, I HATE re-doing other peoples' work. Although I realize I'm being paid to do it; I don't have the same enthusiasm as I do when I'm doing it for the first time. Although these guys are certified techs, I wouldn't be surprised if SOMETHING, didn't make it back the way it was.
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I need to buy a manual with electrical diagrams... anyone have a recommedation as to which is the best? Chiltons? Haynes?
Thanks for any help
If you need the full set of elec. diagrams PM me.
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I've looked for it once or twice after the fact, but I swear I saw a photo of Subaru showing a supercharged H6 at a car show from a coupla years ago. It had a VERY custom looking intake manifold!
Are you sure it wasn't a TT H6? If so, was this it?:
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No external tranny filter on a 97 that I know of.
Good luck.
Commuter
I have one on my 99. What year did they start using the external tranny filter???
If they didn't on the 97's I can see why they are so apt to bind. WAY TOO MUCH HEAT. I know the filter may seem like it would provide only nominal cooling, but you consider that in 4th gear doing 80MPH, with it's placement, it providing a good bit of cooling.
Without a DOUBT... If I owned one without, I would drop the $35 on a tranny cooler.
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DOH!!!
Just realized that thread is over a month old. Forgive me. Home sick with Strep and just not paying close enough attention. Just tried to resuscitate the thread asking for charts and #'s.
Abrupt Shifting
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Thanks for the reply, looks like I need to take it someplace that will do a flush since JE Subaru South will NOT. I'm always leary of having a "Grease monkey" type of Joint doing ANYTHING other than oil. Anyway, thanks for the info.