Lawsonmh15

Doh!!!

Is there any way to do this without losing alot of coolant? Just did a flush and don't want to have to do another one for a $12 part.

How many miles do you have on your car?

How would I know if it were stuck open?

AT. I have a feeling that the thermostat has not ever been changed. Lucky me. Would that cause the issues I have described?

Since It has been cold recently, I've been noticing a few new things. 1.) Takes the temp gauge a while to register as warm. 2.) Even after it IS warm, it tends to only drop the idle (900) to a warm idle (450), after I come to a complete stop for a few seconds. 3.) Harder shifting at times. Seems to be smoother when warm. It also seems to be a result of #2. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Have you checked the oil since adding the seafoam?

Mine did that very briefly. Tightened the bolts and it stopped. Also, I hate to say it, now that you have probably already installed it, but you probably just needed a new gasket and to make sure the donut was facing the same way.

Read the directions and follow accordingly. Personally, I don't know that you want to do it nearly as often as they say (o2 sensors...) but I use it sparingly. IF you add to the crankcase, you should only drive about 100-200 miles. Will dry out the oil QUICK. Click HERE

I just used this method. Kinda tricky, but I used my left hand to open the throttle, and my right to pull the hose up and situate it on the intake hose. Switched hands on the throttle, and poured the Sea Foam in straight out of the bottle. Tried a small bowl first... Not happening. Easy fixes are the best. Now I have to wait for a new IACV gasket to come in at John Elway then re-re-re-do the IACV. Should be in this afternoon. I can't believe that the IACV bolts only take 4-5 ft/lbs of torque :-\.

Recently Cleaned the IACV and had to do ALOT of fiddling to get it back to normal. AFTER that saga, I went through my FSM pdf's and found that there is an actual service procedure for the 2.5 that does NOT require removal. Oh well, lucky YOU. EDIT: I should also mention that the full service procedure for the 2.2's are included as well. Click HERE I would use Sea Foam as the agent. PS. It's on the right side, midway down on the third page. Enjoy.

That hose goes directly to your IACV. Yes it IS important.

Haven't checked on another tach. However, Now when I sit in neutral when warm with foot on break, the RPM doesn't rise, but will stay the same and fluctuate by 100 RPM or so. Earlier today it would jump to 900 in Neutral then drop to about 100, almost die, then return to about 400, then repeat the same process every 10-15 seconds or so. Got home, reinstalled AFTER coating gasket in oil, now just doesn't increase in RPM in neutral and seems to fluctuate by about 100 RPM as I mentioned. I AM STUMPED. Replaced a vac line that tore, not seing or hearing any other leaks... Please let me know if you have any ideas. TIA. As far as the powder went... It was there; but so was EVERYONE with a 5 mountain pass. I got there around 9:30 stayed till 2:00 and got THREE runs in. 45 minute lines were a joke... COULD have been a good day though.

1.) Sorry to hear that man. Cleaning up the TB causing a CEL. I wouldn't go back there. 2.) What were you cleaning it with? Where were you cleaning? - I'll post picks of mine dissassembled. 3.) What setting on the top for the 750 Idle? A, B, or C? PICS: From Passenger Fender: Before: After:

Quitter JK Why? What did you get?

No, Low idle. Cleaned IACV. No change. Re-installed twice, Forgot the donut the first time. Oh well. Will list noticeable differences after enough "testing".

I do custom electronics for a living. So diodes, caps, VR's are of little issue. BUT, the bearing press... That is (I think) the prob with it. I spin the wheel, and it just goes, and goes, and goes. I got a bad hum before I replaced w/ a used one. If all I have to do is ts the circuits and replace bad parts, this wouldn't be a big issue I don't think, but since it sounds like the bearing is trouble...

I've cleaned my MAF ALOT with BG 402 Brake and contact cleaner. I don't know what YOU used, but the BG clearly states that it is o2 Sensor safe. BUT, keep in mind that your primary part of the MAF, is a THERMISTOR. (Thermal Resistor). Incredibly THIN and SENSITIVE. You must LIGHTLY spray it to avoid damage. If you're throwing a code, it could be that you didn't reconnect the connector, or the most common, forgot to reconnect the hose at the bottom of the first resonator air intake. The last possibility I could think of, is that your airbox isn't properly seated. Heard horror stories of people getting the AF changed at a lube joint and they put it on wrong. You pretty much HAVE TO remove the first resonator air intake from the MAF side in order to get it to properly seat. Trust me, backing out the one screw and pulling the tube is ALOT quicker than elbow grease and frustration. Good luck

I can't imagine it is terribly difficult. I am going to deconstruct my old one after I clean the IACV this morning, but am hoping that someone can leave a link or something that directs me on what parts I need, and where I can get them... The CHEAPEST... However, if there are better parts that warrant the extra $$$, I am not opposed to that either.

Well, since I have had my car, the WARM idle has NEVER been above 4-500. Now with the cold weather hitting (going snowboarding tomorrow ) I have noticed a few little idiosynchrocies. 1.) After warm, the idle does NOT drop to acceptable running speed, UNLESS I am sure to come to a complete stop for a few seconds. The obvious problem with this is fuel efficiency/performance. The other result is that until I do this, it shifts HARD. You can just tell it ain't right. - I was at Super Rupair and was discussing it with one of the techs who said vac, I said no, explained more, and we both agreed on IACV. So, I will be cleaning that today and will leave pictures and step by step when I'm done. It should be noted that the low idle does NOT result in poor operation. There is NO shudder from it running that low. I don't know HOW that is possible, but am wondering if my climate could have something to do with it. 2.) The other prob is what HAS to be heat-shield rattle. Only rattles when foot on break, and put in Drive. Back to neutral... Gone. This appeared AFTER having Midas throw on my front o2 sensor. The ONLY reason I took it to them was because the clamps were rusted and wanted to be CERTAIN that I got NEW ones on. They will fix... Oh yes... They will fix. SO... Any suggestions on cleaning the IACV? I plan on using the BG 402 cleaner that I use on my MAF Sensor. BTW. I swapped my busted pulley for a new MAF hoping it may solve my low Idle issue, but no change. SO..... The 402 is acceptable for cleaning IMHO as I have used it for several months and appears to be fine. If someone could leave the resistance I am looking for across the MAF, as well as which leads to backpin for the reading, it would be greatly appreciated.

If it seems to sync with revving, see if it doesn't seem to come from your alternator. If so,...

I use winrar. Sorry for the speed, on cable here. Love my download though.

For do it yourselfers. Will be on until at LEAST 6:00pm MST. Perhaps through the night. Enjoy. ALL electrical diagrams included. Click HERE

This was before the governor stepped in. However, I have a 4EAT and have heard they top out at 112. I guess that means that I gained 4 MPH somewhere along the line. LOL.

Hi all. Since the hurricanes, and relaxed gas requirements, I have noticed a substantial drop in MPG. The worst I have seen is the tank I am currently running (less than 1/4 tank and 260 miles:banghead:). It's bad enough that we have no option but ethanol, but with relaxed standards... It's abysmal. The only person I have talked to that actually tracks their mileage too, said that they had noticed a significant drop as well (100-150mi/tank fewer). The bad tank was purchased at Safeway BTW. If anyone knows of GOOD gas out here, please post. TIA.