Lawsonmh15

I wonder if what alot of you are feeling is the result of a throttle cable that has perhaps developed a little bit of play over the past few years??? Just a thought. That adjustment made a HUGE dent in the original hesitation feeling.

No problem man. Sweet Jesus man! I hope you are just kidding. What code are they shutting off? If it's a PO130 (o2 Sensor), you may be over-doing it.

Here ya go. This is of a 2.5. Here's the top view. After reviewing the intake manifold service procedure, I realized that the hose I used is NOT the brake booster, but have yet to have it named, so feel free to inform me. TIA. View from left side and pull locations:

************ man, I can duplicate it with no prob. Just played a little jig with the pedal. LOL. I think it's the "everything's fine, now drive me" sound. BTW: This is on a 99 2.5L DOHC. Hope this helps.

Ahh yes... The good old diagnostic connector. Just leave it unplugged. I think ALL diligent folks here with later models have stumbled across this.

LOL. Indeed. Shwag. I bet a headache followed.

Good thing I'm not trying to sell my ride. Seems like alot of people could be easily confused by a red wire running directly to the negative terminal. As far as rust goes... Please see previous post. Plate it??? Might paint, WOULD nolux. I live in CO. Not alot of worry about rust. However, if you even TOUCH bare metal then paint, you are setting yourself up for rust. At least with the nolux, I have verification that my connections are not rusting. However, for those who DO chose to paint... Head the warning, do NOT touch the connections prior to painting unless you clean first.

Part 1: Correct. Be sure you leave a little wire poking out the end of the terminal. About 1/4". If the solder doesn't flow into the shield past the crimp, tin prior to crimp (leaving some cold solder on the wire. Insert. Apply iron and heat up to melting point and crimp. You want to avoid crimping a COMPLETELY cold connection. Part 2: Rosin core will work, however, if you're using paste flux, the solder seems to flow easier not being rosin core. Part 3: Dielectric grease will do NOTHING to prevent corrosion. There's two proper ways to prevent corrosion. The first, and best way, is to simply spray paint over the fresh connections. However, you then handcuff yourself. You should ONLY do this if you're willing to leave it, or lose it. You may wind up needing to solder on a new lead if you can't remove the paint. The other way to accomplish non-oxidization of an electrical point, is Nolux. Nolux has been in use for decades in commercial electrical, marine, and aviation fields. Serious die-hards will pull ALL their connections and add nolux. BEING CERTAIN NOT TO BRIDGE ANY CONNECTIONS WITH THE NOLUX. I hope this helps in the process of doing it right. I love questions like these. Points out that there are still people who take enough pride in their work to NOT jump in head-first without having the proper tools to do the job right.

Baja, Forrester, AMC Eagle. These are my frontrunners in the WTF were the designers smoking category.

I let the engine go cold over the past several hours. A couple of things I immediately noticed. 1.) Turned over IMMEDIATELY. Wasn't a prob starting before, but took a couple of cranks instead of 1/2-1 crank. 2.) Piston slap noise is about 60-80% quieter than what it was, and is undetectable after about a block!!! Lastly, runs all around quieter and smoother. To Legacy 777: I used the big hose behind throttle body (brake booster?) because that looked like it hit all the cylinders. I also used some with your method to be certain I covered all bases. However, on my 2.5 the PCV is situated on the LH side of the engine. Seems like that would not hit all the cylinders. What am I missing? I would like to understand this so I can be confident in one method in the future. Thanks in advance.

Cable replacement is quick, easy and cheap. If you have a 2.5, remove the 2nd resonator air intake from it's mount and throttle body, and you will easily be able to access the starter. "Tinning" a wire is the term used to describe the soldering of a single wire in order to create an Oxygen Free connection. Although a wire may SAY it's OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) that property declines as soon as you introduce... Oxygen. So, if you have a decent solder gun, and most importantly, PASTE FLUX, you can create that oxygen free connection (Rosin Core solder alone will NOT do). The flux gets the solder to run down into the shield, thereby sealing the wire. A relatively quick and easy process to keep a connection from oxidizing.

Blizzaks. End of discussion. If you are looking for the BEST snow tire, regardless of price.... BLIZZAKS!!!

YUP!!! It's the $hit. Ran 1/4 from hose on intake manifold (big hose) and 1/4 can through PCV Valve. OOOOHHHH Doggy!!! Gained 750RPM on idle, Smoothed out idle. NO TAPPETS!!! For $5, SeaFoam has my business.

Yellow is also often used as power in auto applications. Used red because of the high strand count, no other shield colors available.

Slight hesitation, weird interior bell "warble". Poor grounding affects ALL devices relying on electrical. It won't affect the + rail, but WILL affect the - rail. Smooths out torque curve a good bit.

This is a 2.5, but I can't imagine that it is much (if any) different. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42606&highlight=Grounding

Oddly enough. I have recently added the additve, and since then, I have noticed a drop. Since then, I have replaced both o2 sensors, and no matter what, I get 23mpg no matter what!!! I don't know what the deal is. Perhaps the mechanic spliced the wrong wires on the o2 sensor??? TIA.

By NO means am I inferring that you will end up hating your car. That's some funny ************ man! The intended sentiment was; If you think you love that thing now, wait until you clean it up a bit. Can run like brand new. Example: Since purchasing I have seen ridiculously good mileage, as well as poor (Result of trying to clean o2 sensor with BG 402. Good on MAF, not so good on o2). Going to New Mexico through the Cuchara mountains, I maintained 80+ and saw 428 Miles on the tank and still had 1.3 gallons left in the tank (Pure highway). As of this moment I am at 284 Miles and am at 1/4 tank. (Split) In response to your questions: #1) ECU reset is a MUST after replacing MANY parts. The easiest way to achieve this is to disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of your battery and depress your break pedal for 5-10 seconds. After resetting and fastening the clamp, drive it like you normally would. (Should have mentioned that you will have the best results doing this after the car is fully warmed up). Your Subie will last you forever if properly maintained. I know people who have seen upwards of 260,000 Miles with the A/T. Given the mileage, I would say that you're due up for a timing belt shortly, (unless recently replaced). I think they call for it around 100,000 miles. Lastly, I can appreciate the fact that you are "fuel-conscious", but what's the point of having this kickass car that handles like nobody's business if you're just gonna drive it like a pansy? I honestly haven't ever noticed a difference in fuel consumption from driving fast or not. That's great that you found a seller who was not only good on maintenance, but could furnish proof. Congrats on the new ride. Enjoy the winter months. Snowboarding season is probably a month or so out.:banana:

I know how you feel man. A week after getting mine I hit a deer doing 35-45mph and the ONLY damage was a crumpled hood, and a broken headlamp bracket (easy enough to fix). My buddy works at a body shop and painted it at cost ($55) so when all was said and done, I got off the hook for a little over $500 . Don't get me wrong, I was incredibly pissed when it happened, but after thinking about all the other things that could have needed to be replaced, it would've been closer to $2,000. Bumper, Radiator, Fans, grille, and of course; airbag re-packing. Don't you love these things!!! I can't wait to go do goofy ************ in the snow. Getting cold here in CO... Snowboard season's-a-comin'.

#1.) Have yet to hear of anyone getting better MPG from resetting ECU. #2.) You are buying a vehicle with 98 thousand miles. - Therefore, I hope you bartered shrewdly. - IF, and I doubt it, but IF you got a Subie from a person who stayed up on the maintenance, you may luck out on the mandatory $500-$1,000 worth of maintenance. - In order for you to have a realistic shot at 28+ MPG, you will need to replace the following Air Filter (subjective), Fuel Filter (recommend one can of BG 44K on a quarter tank prior to oil and fuel filter change, Plugs (hope you don't have a 2.5 DOHC ), Wires, Mass air flow sensor (may not need to purchase. Can be cleaned with BG 402), and my new personal favorite, and largest GAS guzzler, the o2 Sensors. As I recently discovered, o2 sensors EASILY cost 3+ MPG and anywhere from $180-$500 depending on how cheap and mechanically inclined you are. Oh, I'm sure that we're an hour or so away from the obvious, so I'll just point it out now. Tire pressure. Ethanol gas. Lastly, enjoy your new car. After the neccessary maintenance items, I can just about guarantee that you will not even recognize the car you fell in love with. Set the pedestal high. And if I were doing it again, I would start with the o2 sensors and go from there (other than cheap items like the air filter, fuel filter, and plugs). P.S. Easy diagnostic on the o2 sensors, if you are bogging down and shuddering on the low end, but dissappears with higher RPM's... Most likely o2. If you get bogging all over, fuel issue. But, if you can idle INSIDE an OPEN garage for about 20-40 seconds, shut off, get out and smell gas... You prolly need some new o2 sensors. Also, some people around here are under the impression that only replacing the front o2 sensor will quell your probs... They are mistaken. I tested that theory on a couple of tanks of gas. Save your self the time, $$$, and trouble and do both at once. OEM ONLY FOR THE REAR.

How so? If you are looking for the 2.5 procedure, you need to go down a couple of pages. Kinda tricky the first time I looked at them too.

It feels good to share. Click HERE

I keep seeing alot of PO30X codes popping up lately. My personal experience = bad plugs or wires. I'd pull one of the plugs that is NOT sparking, and one that IS. When I got the PO301,302 codes, I pulled the Bosch Plat +4's and 3 were white while one was fouled. However, I noticed that the inner connector at the plug end had become disconnected and could be pulled to the end of the boot. Either way, I put in NGK's and replaced the Napa wires with the OEM. No codes in 3k+ miles. The other prob with this, (which I found out yesterday) is that the end result is, or can be, a ruined front o2 sensor. To lean = Too hot = ruined sensor. Will be white like a lean plug. Since yesterday, I've driven about 40 miles, and the needle on the gas gauge has barely moved. I still plan on replacing the rear 4-wire in the near future, but $$$. The problem is this (In theory): With the limited, or non-existent, spark to the plug from the wire, the ECU compensates. For one reason or another in my case, it dumped ALOT more fuel into one cylinder than the others. Therefor, 3 lean and 1 fouled. There are just certain maintenance items that need to be done/replaced after so long in order to keep the vehicle running properly. When I bought my car, I looked at big ticket items when bartering. Tires, leaks, body... Wish I had looked closer and added Plugs, Wires, Fuel filter, o2 sensors, CRANK PULLEY!!! Oh well, live and learn. I'll know for my next subie purchase:grin:. You are about 20 Miles from me, so we are experiencing the same climate. Don't know if that makes a difference or not, but interesting nonetheless. Should look at altitudes of others who experience the PO30X codes. At any rate, I'd recommend that you throw a meter on the wires and measure resistance. According to Subaru, anything measuring above 4,000 Ohms per foot, or 20,000 Ohms per wire, needs to be replaced. Hope this helps. Let me know what you find.

I have been experiencing a dip in mileage and have taken care of Plugs, wires, etc... Heard that the ONLY O2 sensor that affects your mileage and performance is the Pre-cat (3-wire). However, a parts person at a Sub. dealership said that both are of equal importance. However, I can unplug the post-cat and no CEL is thrown??? Basically, I need the straight poop on O2 sensors. FACT not OPINION please. It seems strange that the post cat (4-wire) would cost 2-3 times more, but not have any affect on performance. TIA. Also, could a universal 3 wire be adapted to the 4 wire? I know you'd lose a lead (Most likely the ground) but don't know if that would cause problems, or if the loss of the negative rail is inconsequential as this is DC not AC power.

I'm currently doing my Pre-Cat O2 sensor. It looks like you guys are WAY over paying for the universal O2 3-wire. I paid $20 for the brand new Bosch Universal at autozone. At that price, it wasn't hard for me to justify $80 to have it installed. Was going to do it myself, but requires exhaust (baked bolts/rust) removal. Not that patient. MY QUESTION: Is the pre-cat (3-wire) the ONLY O2 sensor that affects mileage/performance? I thought I had read that the front was the only one that had affect, but when I talked to the dealer they said both were equally important. However, that was from a lady at the parts counter who admitted she wasn't a tech. TIA. Lastly, I want to replace the post-cat, but am wondering if a 3 wire can be adapted to function the same. If so, what wire is left out? I'd imagine the ground. If this has been successfully done, please let me know, pics would be greatly appreciated.