DerFahrer

+1 for QC issues with them. The last set of front axles I had on my Legacy were from them. I had not one, but two boots start leaking grease. I'm fairly sure it's because the straps on the boots weren't tight enough. I've since replaced them with new (not rebuilt) axles from NAPA, which I'm not happy with either, as I've had a shuddering problem when I take off in 1st gear that I didn't have before installing them. But I'm just going to drive on them until they become a real problem, then I'm going to look elsewhere besides either supplier.

You suck, you and your dual-range EJ transmissions

Google returns no results for any Peugeot that was ever named Sterling, in any market.

Are you sure it wasn't just a Sterling 827, the old Acura Legend rebadge? Like this? They had a symbol similar to the Peugeots, with a lion on its hindlegs.

You can just have the headgaskets replaced and then see what your compression is. That'd be the cheapest route at this point. If it's low across all four cylinders, you might have cooked your rings, and then you'll need a complete rebuild, or a new engine. Definitely have your heads sent to a machine shop to check for warpage or any of that, especially if you've overheated it numerous times. If you end up needing a new engine, ANY "EJ"-series engine will bolt up, but getting another engine like you have will be the easiest to put in.

The EJ18's are just as, maybe more, reliable than the EJ22 which they're based off of. The two engines are virtually IDENTICAL except for the bore.

I replaced ALL the bushings, and yeah, I used OEM ones. But the problem is that they're rubber bushings, and they're exposed to the elements underneath the car. So, it's inevitable that they will wear out at some point. I'm upset that I have to do it again, but at the same time, I knew it would happen again. Don't be misled by Kartboy's or any of those other websites. The shifter "bushings" that they're talking about are really shifter mount bushings. They're the ones that mount the entire shifter assembly to the body. Yes, they improve the shifting feel... immensely. But they don't fix the wobbly shifter problem that we're talking about.

I'm going to finally have pics to add to my writeup soon. My Legacy's shifter is coming apart... AGAIN! Words can't describe how pissed off I am about it, as I only did the bushings some 50k miles ago. This time, I'm going Legacy777's route and putting an STi short-throw in. I figure, if I'm going to rip the whole thing apart again, I might as well upgrade. So yeah, assuming I can get my hands on a digicam by then (mine crapped out entirely, f'ing Kodak ), then I'll complete my writeup with detailed pics, and probably put it in the USRM.

I would still love to have these, but I've had a whole bunch o' sheeot that's been happening lately, and I dunno if I'll ever scrape the money together for them

No, the 5spd WRX's have the 3.545, the STi has 3.90. It will swap, but expect to do a lot of custom fabwork like others have said, and don't expect to have a working DCCD unless you wanna do a TON of wiring.

If it's an EA82, with a pointless distributor, then it's waaaaay newer than 1982. If you're sure it's a 1982 engine, then it's not an EA82. Anyway, the ECM is the computer that runs the engine. It helps operate the distributor, controls the emissions stuff on the carb, and other stuff. No, the engine will not run without it. So, if you want to use this particular engine, you'll have to find a way to mount it in your buggy, where it will not be exposed to shock (bouncing around) or water. Go into the VW/Subaru swap forums, there will be better information there.

Yeah, there is constant power to the Duty C with the fuse in. With it out, it fluctuates, and that's what operates the AWD system. Thanks for refreshing my memory. But what I'm saying is, if the FWD light is not on (yes, assuming of course that the bulb isn't burned out) then, electronically, the AWD is active and operating. The clutch packs could be shot and not delivering power to the rear wheels, but the TCU is at least doing its job.

I know, but The Scooby had said the following quote was part of the purpose of the EGR system:

My Legacy will easily do 29/30mpg on the highway, and it's AWD.

You have just completely contradicted your entire thread in this statement. I feel like I'm just repeating what everyone said all over again, but the only pollutant that is produced when the combustion temperatures increase is NOx. And reintroducing incombustible exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber brings that temperature back down, thereby reducing NOx emissions. Every other pollutant emitted by an internal combustion engine decreases with higher temperatures, because those higher temperatures essentially complete the combustion process. That... is what the catalytic converter is for. So either come to the understanding that you ARE INCREASING the amount in which your car pollutes and just be an ********************* and don't care, or put the EGR system back on and do the environment a favor.

As I've said before on this board: Putting American engines in Japanese vehicles makes baby Jesus cry.

If there is no FWD light illuminated on your dash, then the fuse part has nothing to do with it. There has to be an electrical connection to disable the Duty C solenoid and if that connection is there, the FWD light will be on. If you only bought the car for $300, and don't need the AWD that bad, stick the fuse in there to make sure it's in FWD mode and just keep driving it. You shouldn't damage anything by doing that. If you need AWD, I would recommend just having a dealer put a new AWD clutch pack in. It can usually be done for less than $1000, dealer price.

Here's the scoop. NA heads are the same left/right. And I don't mean there's enough similarities between them that they will work without incident, I mean the part numbers are the same. So... yes, there is an O-ring behind the cam retainer on the driver-side head, and it will spring a leak. I made the same mistake, replaced just the cam seal on that side and got pissed when it was still leaking. So, subyluvr, if the heads are the same left/right, then that means that there would have to be an identical hole somewhere on the passenger side head that needs to be sealed by that same O-ring, right? Right! That hole is on the BACK of the passenger head, and is blocked off by a little plate with the same O-ring sealing it (same part number for both O-rings). That O-ring is just as susceptible to leaking as the other one is, although that one is MUCH easier to replace (takes about 10 minutes). So yeah, porcupine is on the right track. But there's the skinny on it. I don't have the part numbers for those O-rings in front of me, but if I get over this crummy sickness by Monday , I'll try to look it up and post it.

Yeah, those eBay one suck. Nearly impossible to read. Get the original FSM's slowly. What are you trying to work on right now? If it's electrical, get the electrical section. If you end up needing the suspension one later, get that one.

You've found quite a rare car Phil. There was indeed a Loyale RS Turbo 3-door in 1990. And that's the only one I've ever seen real-life pics of.

Umm, the USDM DCCD has a $h1t-ton of sensors on the transmission itself, a sensor at each wheel (can't remember whether it's an individual sensor independent of the ABS sensor, or whether it's integrated into the ABS sensor itself), a sensor in the rear differential, and more I'm surely forgetting. Ditch any of this stuff, and you will have an improperly-working DCCD system, or maybe a NON-working DCCD system.

I thought this was what the EVAP system was for? And I was always under the impression that the catalytic converter was where the Y-pipe met (on nonturbos of course, turbos are in DP), and that the canister behind that was a resonator, not a catalytic converter.

Yeah, from what I can tell, pulling a GenI dash would be a LOT easier than newer cars.

Here at work we use the 15208AA100 for ALL Subaru EJ 4cyl engines, from the EJ18 to the EJ257. The H6s use a different filter, both the EG33 and EZ30.

That junkyard thread was originally posted on VWVortex in 2000... We linked to it, and someone called and said that yard is long gone and all the cars went with it