DerFahrer

Wow, a GenI owner that says his car hauls rump roast. That's encouraging . I'm still a carburetor n00b, but I would think if you stomp on the pedal and the car stumbles, that there isn't enough fuel coming in to meet the new volume of air coming in. I won't say anything definitive though, the veterans can tell you.

That is now on my Myspace

EJ22 = just the first 4-digits EJ22E = all USDM N/A 2.2-liter engines from 90-96 EJ22EZ = all USDM 2.2-liter engines from 97-98 (9.7:1 CR, solid lifters, single-port exhaust, but still Phase I) EJ222/EJ223 = USDM 2.2-liter engines from 99-01 (same stuff as EZ, but Phase II) There's some weirdness in the transition from E to EZ in 96, as some 96 2.2 owners report having solid lifters and single-port exhaust. EJ22T = 91-94 USDM Legacy Turbo engine EJ22G = Impreza 22B engine EJ22T is NOT the same as EJ22G, despite what the Nasioc clowns tell you.

EJ18's are as well built as the EJ22's they're based off of (as far as the shortblock, EVERYTHING is the same except the bore). Hope to be turboing one here in the next 8-9 months, the one I have has 230k on it and has nothing wrong other than oil leaks. It will have more power than your EA81, but not THAT much. It has 110hp stock.

What's different between an EA71 bellhousing and an EA63 bellhousing?

I was going to say something about this. Unfortunately, we have a lot of assclowns (especially on eBay) who either are flat-out lying that the engines they have are JDM, or are just stupid and assume every engine they have out of a Japanese car is automatically JDM. Regardless, I've never heard of any EJ22 in Japan except the EJ22G that was in the 22B.

They were

Believe it or not, service manuals are still available brand-new from the dealer for both of your cars, yes, even the 91. The 91 manuals are in short supply, but still available. If you want, PM me and I'll give you the part numbers. Of course, I understand if you don't want to spend $300 for a set of brand-new manuals. In that case... keep a close watch on eBay

Wow, that does look pretty close, at least in the front. But I feel confident saying that the two are entirely unrelated. The body shape is too different. And of course, the engine is different.

Is the key you have an original key? Do you see a number cast into your key, right below the head? If so, that's your keycode. All you'd have to do is take it to a dealer or locksmith and tell them to cut a key for that code. If it's not an original key, any dealer can look up your keycode with a VIN. If I wanted to get in HUGE trouble (and I don't) I could have you PM me your VIN number and I could look up your keycode right now, as we speak

On OHC EA engines (so just EA82s), the flywheel is the harmonic balancer, not the crank pulley.

At first, I heard the Baja was gonna be dead for 06, but now I'm 99% sure it's dead for 07. It is based on the last-generation Legacy, after all.

Thank you for that actually. Someone tried to tell me that the ST-X had a 3.0L four, called the EJ30. Thanks to that, I can prove them wrong

*scratching head* What is replacing this Bryan? I don't remember you buying any other Soobs. Unless you bought that blue 76, I can't remember.

Haha, reminds me of the time I was working at a Toyota dealer, and used Toyota starter contacts to rebuild the white 93 Legacy wagon's starter. Too bad it was the solenoid going bad and not the contacts (starter still clicked afterwards). It's a simple explanation: Subaru uses NipponDenso starters, and so does Toyota :-\

The drive-by-wire throttle does simpify the car quite a bit, in all honesty. It eliminates the ENTIRE cruise control system. Cruise control is completely computer-controlled and integrated into the drive-by-wire setup. That's a lot of weight savings. It also eliminates the need for the fancy idle control systems of yore. No IAC valves, etc. It's all controlled by the drive-by-wire.

I've learned a lot about this type of stuff since that posting. It appears I had the diff and gear oils mixed up, as the regular Redline 75W90 belongs in the transmission because it has friction modifiers for the synchros, and the Redline 75W90NS belongs in the diff, because it does not have friction modifiers, and they're not needed since there are no synchros in the diff. That said, I am running the GM Synchromesh and am very happy with the results. I was having a slight resistance engaging 3rd and 4th gear downshifting with the plain cheap dino oil I was using. That went away with the Synchromesh. And before anyone wonders about its compatibility with Subaru transmissions, my dealer keeps it in stock for use in Subaru transmissions to alleviate this very problem. We feel that confident about it.

I wouldn't do the fabric personally, but I will definitely be using similar methods to restore my dash. That, and the condition of the front seats, is my main concern about the interior condition.

The reason I said voltage regulator (the external ones anyway) is because they contain the fuel pump relay. If that voltage regulator is b0rk3d, then the fuel pump won't get juice. Shift, hotwire your fuel pump directly to the battery and see if that allows your car to run continuously.

It sounds like you have the same problem I have. What's your system voltage? I'll bet that in all the electrical horror, you screwed your voltage regulator.

What I would do to have that car...

You all know that EA82's harmonic balancers are their flywheels and not their crank pullies right?

It could be an EJ18.

Okay, it makes sense now. Anyway, yes, back on-topic. Great score sucker king!

I want to make sweet, sweet love to your RX Have any pics of the twin-carb setup?