DerFahrer

Most likely a blown headgasket. EJ heads don't crack as often as the EA ones, but take them to a machine shop anyway to be sure they aren't warped. If they are, the shop should be able to mill them. The head bolts take a 12-point 14mm socket. I would think a place like Sears or something like that would have one. Why do you think you need timing idler pullies? You can have a muffler shop make you a new exhaust system. Does yours have a hole, and if so, where?

If it's an 81 Brat, then you're correct that it's a 1st-gen, and 1st-gen questions are best answered in the Historic forum. Ignition module maybe?

I'm 99% sure it's the throwout bearing, because what's actually happening is your clutch cable is out of adjustment. LOOSEN your clutch cable. It's probably too tight and allowing the throwout bearing to drag against the pressure plate.

Where's he gonna get body parts though?

Yeah, I think all EA71's have floor-mounted gas pedals. This definitely sparks my interest... Any more details Bryan?

Yeesh. Glad you're okay man. Like others have said, let us know if you sell any parts off of it.

Unfortunately, if the washer (or whatever you wanna call it) in the back cover is already spinning around, then it's destroyed the plastic behind it. Just rip the covers off. I guarantee that anyone who's done a lot with EA cars on this board has also done it at some point or another. If you want, post a wanted thread in the classifieds asking for a good set of timing covers. Or, you can even run without them if you want.

Hold up So can this guy make a carpet assembly off a template or something, and then ship it out to someone? As bad as my carpet is, I'd so be up for this... ... in a few months

I'm gonna study up more on the new Hill-Holder system... But as far as the old ones go, throttle application and gear selection have NOTHING to do with the Hill-Holder. It's entirely possible for the Hill-Holder to engage while the transmission is in Reverse. The only thing that comes in contact with the Hill-Holder system directly is the clutch release system.

Oh, I see how it is. These clowns over on the USMB come first huh? Not your pals at LegacyCentral. Humph!! Simply beautiful Josh. Simply beautiful. Your car is a constant inspiration for me... one day mine will be that clean.

The reliability of JAPANESE-made Subarus :-\

My Legacy seems to attract spiders too, even inside. I've gotten in the car in the morning several times, only to get tangled in spider webs. I dunno why either, as I drive the car everyday, keep it clean inside, and always keep the windows shut... Probably coz I live in FL

The first thing I thought when I read the first post. As best I can tell, Imprezas didn't have the EJ22 until 95. My brochures are unclear on this.

Guess what guys? There's one new one left! Part number is 420872022. List price is $349.99, but if you sleep better at night knowing you're getting a brand-new part (like me ), then you can go for it!

EBC has supposedly changed their pad material in the past due to some criticism about them eating rotors. You could give them a shot (EBC Green Stuff is supposed to be their most streetable application), but don't be surprised if you still eat your rotors. MDW25gt and Danbob have both suggested Hawk pads, and I've heard many other favorable reviews on Hawk pads from non-Subaru people. That said, I have a set of front Hawk pads sitting here in my house that I plan on putting on my Legacy at some point... I just have to wait for the rear pads to come off backorder (been backordered since April was what my source told me ) I have the Subaru Challenge coming up, and if those rear Hawks don't come in in time, I'll likely just throw OEM pads on it, use my already shot rotors, and just abuse the hell out of them on the track. I shouldn't be talking this confidently really. I have little experience other than being able to say that the el-cheapo pads from Autozone or the like do NOT offer anything worthy of being called brake "performance." I've seriously gotten on my brakes twice in only spirited driving (as opposed to racing) and already felt fade from them. Once I get the Hawk pads on, I'll report back.

What are you looking for in brake performance? Less dust? Less fade? Longer life?

w00t! So I'm guessing by the time you car would need to be inspected again, it will be too old and thus be exempt? Sorry if that's totally off, I don't have emissions in FL.

Another PITA on Subarus. I've done motor mounts on my Legacy, and thankfully haven't had to do it on the others I have. You will likely have to get to the back bolts from the top of the car. You'll have to reach down and feel around for them, then once you get a socket wrench on there, it's a one-notch deal (you have room to move your wrench one notch in its ratchet mechanism ). If this is a parts car, I'd just cut the bolt off the mount.

I'm fairly sure only the Spec.B is coming with the SI-Drive. I'll have to double-check.

Not to make this an auto vs. manual thread, but I actually prefer the auto AWD over the manual AWD. The auto AWD system is more sophisticated and ultimately offers more grip than the manual AWD. I still prefer driving a manual though.

A goes to you for demanding a manual transmission! Thanks for keeping our dying breed alive! As ferret said, SAE has changed some HP rating rules, so many cars have lower HP ratings than they used to...

Well... sort of I wanted the 4th and 5th digits of her VIN because that's her chassis code. It's probably different from the Justy, which is KA. Regardless, if she gave me her entire VIN, I won't be able to do anything with it because my catalogue only has USDM Subaru VINs in its database.

This isn't complete, I don't have any pics of me actually doing it on the car, but this is a write-up I did for someone else a little while ago. The pics won't come up anymore unfortunately... I presume the shifter is loose from side-to-side, which means the bushings that are the hardest to get to are the ones that are bad :? You can refer to my little drawing for all my instructions: Before you start with the hard part, take apart any part of the shifter that is easily accessible, like inside the car. Also, refer to the drawing, the circle in the bracket to the left is a vertical bolt. Take that out and remove the vertical bracket. That way, you won't have anything in your way when you get to the hard part. As you know, you have to remove the bolt going through the boss ( yellow) in order to replace the bushings (blue, and that bolt cannot be removed while on the car, because the little snout on the transmission blocks it. So you have to hammer out the pins that hold the boss to the shift rod (green) and then work the boss off the shift rod, and remove the entire assembly out of the car, so you can take the bolt out and replace the bushings. The pins are the exact same roll pins that hold our axles in place, just smaller. Those pin can be quite a pain for several reasons: 1) The pins sit at an angle 2) The pins are hard to reach since the assembly is so far up inside 3) The inner pin is holding the outer pin in place 4) The outer protrudes from the boss 4) The pins probably haven't moved since the car was built So here's how we eliminate each problem: 1) The pin sits at an angle... in Neutral. I believe that putting the shifter in Reverse will put the pin in a (mostly) vertical position, and Reverse also pulls the assembly away from the transmission giving you more room to work. 2) You can't just put the punch up against the pin and expect to have room to hit it with a hammer, so you will have to "extend" your punch. Here is my ghetto-fabulous way of doing it: ----- Get a punch like this (yeah, mine's a little bent ): Oh, and the size of the punch tip doesn't matter that much, just as long as it's close to that one... ----- All the punches I've seen have 8mm hexagonal shapes, so take an 8mm socket and put it on a socket extension like so: ----- Then, put the punch in the socket like this: ... and duct-tape the whole assembly together, because I can guarantee that it will come apart while you're working underneath the car, and then you have to go running after the various parts :x 3) The inner pin is what's holding the outer pin in place. Chances are you won't even SEE the inner pin, but what you need to do is stick your punch assembly very slightly into the hole in the pins at an angle and start hammering on it. It will take some effort, but after a while, you should notice that the inner pin is starting to come out. Once you can see the edge of the inner pin, put the punch assembly against it and hammer it out. Now you can work on the outer pin 4) Since the outer pin is actually protruding out of the boss, you can't just put the punch on the edge of the pin, hammer on it, and expect it to stay in place. With axles, you're fortunate because the pin recedes into the axle, so you can put the punch on the edge of the pin and against the lip of the axle, so the punch will stay in place on the edge of the pin while you hammer it out. Not so in this case. So, there's a fairly easy and ingenious way to take care of this: ----- Find a small socket (around 4-6mm will do) and simply slide it over the punch like so: Then, what you can do is put the punch tip into the hole in the pin and push it all the way in until the socket meets the pin. That way, you can actually hammer directly on the pin, and your punch won't move since its tip is inside the pin. 5) I can't say it enough, these pins are very tedious to get out. They haven't moved in years, so it will take a good while of straight hammering on them to get them to move. PB Blaster or other such rust-breakers might help, but not much. Don't be a wuss when you hit on them either, in fact, any anger that you've developed at this point is best vented on these pins . I've never bent anything, so you should be okay. Great! The pins are out! But wait just a minute... We still have to get the boss off the shift rod!!! :evil: It just so happens that a tie-rod pickle fork fits perfectly behind the edges of the boss where it meets the shift rod. And there happens to be a bolt directly below this area on the transmission casing that serves as a perfect fulcrum. Yes, you're going to use a lever to pop the boss off of the shift rod. Why? Because, like the pins, the boss hasn't come off the shift rod since the car's been built, so it will take some impact to get it loose. I don't have any pictures, but basically, put the tie-rod fork against the boss and against the bolt on the tranny casing, and start hammering towards the front of the car. NOW... I understand that you're worried about possibly breaking in something inside the transmission, as what you're doing at this point is basically taking the shifter that's already in Reverse, and slamming it in that same direction every time you hit the fork with the hammer. You can keep trying it for a while, but if the boss refuses to come off, then you might have to... start cutting :shock: I was lucky with my Legacy, because after a few short minutes of hammering on it like this, the boss just popped right off. In fact, it popped off so fast, it flew straight towards my nose and hit hard enough to make it bleed!!! But I wasn't so lucky with my XT. I had to cut it off. If this happens to you, then you will need to take a Dremel tool, and cut on either side of the boss. Start from the edge where you put the fork against it, and go back until you get to the point where the metal bends. You could cut straight through the hole, which will simply give you less to cut through, and then you should cut as close to 180º on the other side of the boss in the same manner. Cut deep enough until you get to the shift rod underneath. Then once you've done that, take a flathead screwdriver, put it against the edge of the boss at an angle facing upwards toward the car, and then hammer against the screwdriver. This will both weaken the boss's grip on the shift rod and push it off the shift rod. After a bit of hammering, the boss should slide off. Now you have to go get a new boss from the dealer :oops: But... as they say, that's life... Now that you've got the whole assembly apart, you can FINALLY get to those damn bushings! Replacing them is straightforward enough, just remove the bolt, remove the boss from the bracket, and put the new bushings in the boss. Make sure to lube them good (I like lithium grease), and reassemble it. Slide the boss back onto the shift rod, and you WILL have to reuse the pins. I've tried putting bolts in the hole instead of the pins, and no matter how tight I got the bolt into the hole, it would always move around a bit. Subaru used those pins because it holds the boss tight on the shift rod. Reinstall the brackets, the return spring, all that fun stuff, and the rest of the reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. No it's not fun, and no it's not easy. But man will that shifter feel a whole lot better once it's tightened up again!

I really, really need to do a write-up on this. I'm checking the forums kinda quickly, so I can't make a huge post right now, but if you can wait, I will post up some pointers.

I disagree with Manarius about using aftermarket bearings. I replaced all 4 bearings on my 91 Legacy a little over a year ago with aftermarket ones from Advance, and with only 13k miles on them, I already have a rear one that's getting noisy again. The OEM ones don't last long, I agree. But the aftermarket ones last even shorter.