DerFahrer

91 Legacy - Running, but at this second has no front control arms. This will be remedied this evening. 93 Legacy - Currently driving it, but needs wheel bearings really bad. 88 XT - Will start, but barely (dying battery). Air suspension also in dire need of attention. 79 GL - Not running, might be soon, then again, might not be

I'm usually not one for whitewalls or decals and I still say A

This makes me very sad The Baja was supposed to be done for 05, but I've actually heard that they let it go one more year simply because they had a big surplus of BE-BH Legacy parts that they needed to get rid of.

I'd go this route. Nowhere near enough high-comp NA Subies out there.

Hey Bryan, I'm curious... Your car is 100% legal to drive right? I've been under the impression that cars only have to meet the emissions regulations that were in effect when your car was built, so even though your car doesn't even have a cat and only has SEEC-T stuff, it's still grandfathered in right?

It's one of Subaru's quirky personality traits that you will get used to... because there's really nothing you can do about it.

:banana: Got my title today! :banana:

What could possibly be needed to be done to it to restore it? It's already f'ing beautiful!! I say leave it original. Nice score man! I'm jealous!

You'll be off-timing. That's it.

For what you want to use it for, I'd consider a Baja Sport. The Turbo will get worse gas mileage and it has to use premium fuel. But if you want a Baja, now's the time. I hear of no plans for an 07 model!

avatar382 (who posts once about every 27 years ) has a pretty sweet XT Turbo. Suffice it to say it can probably run close to 200chp if he turns the boost up. I'd definitely say it's one of the faster EA82s in the country.

I've HAD to do the starter method several times, especially if it's on a newer car and the timing belt has never been done before.

Can you pop the center ornament out?

But you could get a Forester XT that will at least be faster than the RAV4, even though it has less power.

No EGR system on this car.

Hehe, oops :-\ The cause is still the same though...

You've tried everything but the O2 sensor My XT used to do this, replaced the O2 sensor, and hasn't done it since.

Every piece of literature, and every catalogue I've looked at says Phase II engines (ALL engines built in 99 or later[including the EJ22 fom 99-01]) have the last-position thrust bearing.

AAAHHH! It has cruise! If you can pull the pods (the things sticking out on either side of the steering column, with the light and A/C and wiper controls) and hang onto them for a few weeks, I'll try to buy them from you. I'd take the wheels too (those are Motion wheels and hard-to-find!), but I just don't have the cash... TOO MANY PROJECTS!! :mad:

Looking at my diagrams, I don't see any external screws either. The pad is probably 'wrapped' around the frame of the wheel so to speak. Try reaching behind it on the edges and opening it out, then trying to remove it. It also looks like it has two points that snap into the frame as well, so you might have to gently pop them out. It might help if you pull the horn fuse (so it doesn't go off) then try to press in the middle of it with your thumbs while you pull on the outward edges. Do it firmly but slowly. If it requires too much effort, don't force it. Repost and I'll try to help. Once you get the pad off, you should see the nut on the main shaft right in the center. I would think another steering wheel should fit. You can try pulling a JY wheel and seeing if it will fit.

Well, being rated at 65hp, the EA71 wasn't meant to be a powerhouse to begin with But yeah, I think you just need a resealing job and general tune-up. I don't think the engine is done for.

All Phase II motors have the rear-mounted thrust bearing, instead of the center-mounted thrust bearing that all Phase I's have, for this very reason. That's why I asked about which end of the motor was shown in the pics, to verify whether it was a Phase I or Phase II.

You've been PM'ed

I can't tell, is that the rearmost bearing we're looking at? It looks like your thrust bearing might have been on its way out. Possibly. I'm never torn a Soob engine down, so I'm not the authority. But I'd say your crank was slightly walking. If someone can give a more authoritative answer, go ahead by all means. No matter, you've already torn it down. Make sure the rods aren't damaged, throw a new set of main bearings in, and I'd say you're good.

You definitely don't need to remove the cam sprockets to remove the water pump. Haynes manuals only go up to 98. The procedure for your SOHC 99 is virtually the same as a SOHC 2.2, except the tensioner's different. You can compress the tensioner in a C-clamp or (preferably) a vise. BUT... you must do it SLOWLY! Take at least 2 minutes from the time you stop until the time you stick the Allen wrench (or whatever) through the tensioner. Do it too fast and you'll screw up the hydraulics in it. Your oil pump backing plate screws are likely just fine. I removed my oil pump at 149k and the screws were so tight I couldn't get them out.