DerFahrer

I believe we might have two of the last Gen1's in FL now... I also have yet to see another 4WD nonturbo XT in Orlando. I see FWD XT's on a rare occasion, and maybe a turbo in there somewhere, but no 4WD nonturbos.

Actually, what time is that meet Machine? Later in the afternoon or what? My family's house is halfway there, they live in the Lake Placid/Sebring area. If I can skip out early, I might be able to make an appearance. No promises though That's okay, I might be able to fab something up. Too bad my 4WD shifter knob is broken too...:-\

This is scary, look how much we have in common... - My name's Michael - I too just bought a 79 wagon - Mine also has minor rusting, faded paint, and a malfunctioning speedo - I'm kinda a youngin who also doesn't have any experience with carbs At least yours is running though, mine has an electrical issue with the fuel pump and a bad tranny bearing I have 3 other Subarus though, so I draw off some experience. Welcome to the board though, you'll like it here, I'm already finding the historic guys VERY helpful!

Okay, I want in on this!! Give me two for the hell of it. I can't pay right this second though. What's the deadline for payment?

Bah, I forgot to post the other picture. I understand the difference between the diode and the V/R. The V/R, if I follow you correctly is circled in red in this pic: I got a super-quick response from vermont_ham, and I've already paid for the FSM, so it should be on its way soon. I'm very appreciative of your help moosens, but if it's cool with you, I'd like to post this stuff on the open forum for everyone's information, in case someone else has the same question. I know the parts thing is gonna be rough... Some stuff is still available (apparently, all the clutch-related stuff for EA71's is still available in SOA warehouses), but a lot of stuff isn't of course. I do have access to all part numbers and their respective supercessions, it's just the parts themselves I'm gonna have trouble with :-\ What about aftermarket stuff? How good are Advance, Autozone, etc? As always, thanks so much for the help from everyone. It will pay off when you see this car on the road again! :cool:

Yeah, I meant to ask where you got that?

It's a 95, so it's a 2.2. The 2.5 came out in 96.

Don't forget, I have your address on the title. I can find where YOU live too! BWAHAHAHA!! In all seriousness, I'm gonna try to do as much as I can myself, but I might bug ya if something's really got me stumped. Anytime, just PM me, call me, or shoot me an email at subyluvr2212@gmail.com I'm a picture whore anyway, so don't worry about that Please do!

OMG that looks so sexy! I want mine to look that good one day! The license plate says it all! When I get mine running (sometime this year I hope ) we'll definitely have to meet up Machine!

You guys rule! Plain and simple! I shot vermont_ham an email, let's see what he says. I checked my catalogues today, and there are two different alternators listed, depending on VIN. There is one with a small diode on top of the alternator like you said, and there is one inside the alternator that's a bit bigger. You seem pretty sure though that it's the former. I'll double-check it tomorrow. Unfortunately, the former-mentioned diode is in the neighborhood of $75 list (!), and there aren't any in the country. But I'll try ordering it and see what happens. I might get lucky. Edit: So I think I have the internal diode I don't see the external one on mine, at least not the way it looks in the catalogue. But I'm not gonna jump to conclusions just yet. I'm gonna test everything first before I condemn it.

I've never used an aftermarket T-stat, and I never want to after hearing horror stories like this. It's worth it to go out of your way to get an OEM one, overheating can cause blown headgaskets, and that's faaaar more expensive than a few extra bucks in gas. JT95, I can probably get you an OEM T-stat for a reasonable price plus shipping. Email me at subyluvr2212@gmail.com and I'll see what I can do. The OFFICIAL way to burp the system (if your car has this) is to remove the plastic screw out of the passenger side of the radiator while filling it. Once coolant starts coming out of that little hole, your system is full of coolant and nothing else. If your car doesn't have this screw, then the best advice I could give would be to shake your radiator as you're filling it, until no more bubbles come up when you shake it, and the level won't go down anymore. That's not the best way, but it works pretty well.

Awesome, thanks again guys. One more question for now, where is the external regulator located? If I'm looking at my catalogue right, it's on the back of the alternator casing, but I could be wrong...

This is the only one I see, and it's 83, so it won't help me. If my Haynes is right, 83 is definitely different from 79. I was kinda just throwing the cylindrical thing out there, but I guess I was right! Cool! Do these cars have external voltage regulators, or are they in the alternator like I'm used to? Much, much thanks for your help Moosens. I will see what I can find out!

By the way, I have gotten THIRTEEN suggestions of swapping some form of an EJ engine in it from all the forums I've posted this on

So, I'm going to address the electrical problem with the fuel pump on my newly-acquired 79 EA71 4WD wagon first. Raven told me that the fuel pump needs a pulsating +12v current, not a constant one. I'm thinking that the fuel pump on these cars might be like a cylindrical compression type of pump, instead of a rotary pump like the newer cars. Please correct me if I'm wrong. It definitely needs a pulsating current though, as I can get the engine to start if I rapidly touch a +12v wire to the fuel pump for a couple seconds and then crank it over. It will then die of course, but doing that procedure puts enough fuel in the carb that will allow it to start and run for a few seconds. I haven't tested it, but I'm pretty sure Raven said the wire coming off the harness will only give a constant +12v current and not a pulsating one. So where should I look for a solenoid or what-have-you that pulsates the +12v current like that? And where can I get a replacement part? Thanks in advance!

I'm impressed. It cleaned up pretty good. The paint is faded as hell, of course, but it looks better than I thought it would. EA71 baby! Too bad these aren't the real miles. It's likely rolled over, and the speedo's broken so even these 5 digits aren't accurate.

But the Haynes manual has instructions on how to properly bleed your hydraulic lash adjusters.

That is sexy, it makes gears start turning in my head for Gretchen

The Haynes manual didn't goof up. The EJ22 had hydro lifters until 97, then they switched to solid. That's why it says 97-up models, and doesn't give a procedure for 90-96 models

Hmm... I wish I could hear you rev it. I was gonna say rod knock, but the rare occasion that I've heard a Subaru with a rod knock, it's always been continuous and doesn't fade in and out like that. What about the main bearings?

I'm gonna do what I can to make it an original resto. Being fortunate enough to work at a Subaru dealer, I can probably do a little extra digging for OEM parts. I think I'm gonna clean it up tomorrow, and see if I can at least get the engine to fire up and run for a few minutes. I was thinking of throwing an EA81 D/R in it, but apparently that won't work, with the whole starter/clutch fork location being opposite of the EA81. I still find that really funny! I guarantee I'm gonna have a whole bunch of questions coming up, since this is my first carbed car. I do kinda hafta be a jackass and brag that I now have a legitimate reason to post in all 3 Subaru generation forums

Well, if you've been keeping up with the FS section, you remember the 79 wagon that RavenTBK had in north FL, that sat for sale for years! Well, it's mine now! It needs some TLC... Raven has informed me that the transmission main bearing is making noise. Believe it or not, I've already sourced all the bearings in the transmission, OEM from Subaru!! I dunno if I'm gonna rebuild this one and throw it back in, swap a different one, or what. It also has an electrical issue with the fuel pump, so it will only run if I put a little gas in the carb. I heard it start up and then die, but the engine runs sweet, and the exhaust is completely silent! It has all the original paperwork, owners' manual, etc. It's not even a 17-digit VIN either, it's something weird! :shock: There's a tiny bit of rust, but only one spot that I'm concerned about. The rest is mostly surface. Either way, it will be a fun project. I might restore it and sell it, or I might keep it. Anyway, enough blabbering. Here's the pics of Gretchen (yes, I've already named her ): The body's dirty, but in decent shape: Interior is kinda yucky: This vicious beast might be putting out 60hp y0!! Owner's manual, etc. The one rust spot I'm concerned about: Thanks again Raven!

WelL, the EG33 is not piston-valve interference to begin with As best I know, it was the only engine available in 97 that was not piston-valve interference. The valves COULD hit each other on the EG33 if for some strange reason, the cams were to get out of sync with each other, which is pretty much impossible. So, realistically, the EG33 is, yes, a non-interference motor.

Well, no EA Subarus bend valves... For the most part, all DOHC Subaru engines are valve-valve interference, and as best I know (unless someone can prove otherwise), ALL Subaru nonturbo engines from 97-up are piston-valve interference.

You're right, I should have been more thorough. The EJ20 N/A has been around since the EJ22 has in the US, and has been available in many different variations. But the one in yours is not an EJ204. The EJ204 I spoke of is Japan-only, I believe, in some Imprezas.