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Everything posted by DerFahrer
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GEEZ!! EIGHT replies and the first post hasn't ruffled anyone's feathers? Drifter, by "fuse" you mean the FWD circuit in the engine bay right?? That's NOT supposed to have a fuse in it. If you DO put a fuse in it, THEN it will be in front-wheel-drive mode. That's for towing purposes so the transmission is not damaged if the rear wheels are left on the ground when the car is towed.
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.1 or .2 quarts I wouldn't really worry about. A quart overfilled, yeah, definitely a problem. But that's not enough to make a difference. You used Redline MT-90? I tried Redline 75W90NS and it made my 4th gear grind whenever I tried to engage it, cold or hot. But it shouldn't grind on MT-90. That's a GL4 oil.
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The aforementioned issue of the backing plate screws is what I think the real issue is here. If those are loose, you will lose oil pressure. I just resealed my oil pump on my Legacy last weekend, and those screws were so tight I couldn't get them loose. I almost started to strip out one of the screws and then I just decided to leave it alone. Agree 100% with watching the front seal when you reinstall the pump!! I pushed my pump all the way on, and as soon as I did that, the spring in the seal poked out and stuck to the keyway on the crank! I cursed loudly (as I usually do ), and hurried as fast as I could to reinstall the spring back in the seal... Realize that the RTV sealant on the pump was slowly drying this whole time!!! I got it though, and reinstalled the pump more carefully. Everything seems to be fine so far.
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The 80's Soobs have the parking brakes in the front, built into the front calipers. Thusly, you need to TURN the pistons clockwise back into the calipers, you can't just push them straight in. You can actually damage them by doing so. You can turn them while depressing them with a pair of needlenose pliers, but that's not fun, lemme tell ya. Harbor Freight has a tool that works really well at turning the pistons while you compress them.
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The Hill-Holder being disconnected is probably why the clutch feels light. The HH cable attaches directly to the clutch fork, so whenever you depress the clutch pedal, you move the clutch fork as well as open the HH valve. If it's disconnected, that's less force you have to use to depress the pedal. Also, as John said, if the clutch cable is too tight, the TOB will be constantly touching the pressure plate, which will only wear it out faster, and if it's putting any significant amount of pressure on the plate, it will wear out the fingers on the plate faster too.
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EJ22 & EJ25
DerFahrer replied to payson's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Hmm. The sprockets and belt shouldn't matter, all EJ's have the same timing curves as far as I know. The tensioners are different though. The EJ22 that was originally in the car had a cylindrical tensioner, mounted horizontally, pushing on a separate tensioner pulley. The EJ25 has a smaller cylindrical tensioner, mounted vertically, that is built into to the tensioner pulley assembly. If you think timing's off (which concerns me because EJ25's are interference engines ), check to be sure the timing marks are lined up like they're supposed to be. Grab a Haynes manual for help on that. -
Bingo. Copper is the second-best conducting metal on earth, silver is the best. Nology makes silver-tipped spark plugs with their selling point being that very fact. And the OEM NGK Subaru plugs are THE EXACT same NGK plugs you get at Advance or whatever, even the same number, BKR6E11. And yes, it's been reported that aftermarket PCV valves allow too much vacuum through and literally suck oil out of the crankcase and into your intake manifold. Go OEM on these also.
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ATTN: All Non-Turbo EA82 Drivers
DerFahrer replied to SyntheticBlinkerFluid's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I don't drive it all that much, but when I was using it as a daily, my 88 pushbutton-4WD XT nonturbo 5-spd got around 25 in town and about 35 on the highway. Realize though that XT's will naturally get slightly better mileage on the road because of the aerodynamics... -
85Sub4WD, he has an XT6, the 5-lugger. Not the same setup as us 4-luggers... Yeah, forgot about putting stubs in the front hubs. You need to or you will destroy the front wheel bearings.
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If you wanted to remove the rear axles and drive around in RWD, then yes, engaging the Diff Lock would allow you to do so, although it would be quite a strain on your drivetrain, especially that center diff. As Ed suggested, get all your rebuilt axles from http://www.cvaxles.com as they're one of the most reputable axle rebuilders in the Subaru world.