DerFahrer

I quoted grossgary about the reason why CC is not always engaged, so that makes it twice that it's been posted in this thread now. Your girl's Volvo is the ONLY car I've ever driven or heard of that has the cruise on all the time, and I honestly believe that is a malfunction.

I thought this would have been obvious... Find me a car that has its cruise on all the time, needing only to be set. I've never seen one.

Matt! Can you please take that photo and post it in this thread on LegacyCentral? http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14154 I'm trying to convince those fools that XT6 wheels look bad-rump roast on 1st-gen Legacies! (I have a BRAND-NEW, never-before-used set of XT6 wheels that I want to put on my Legacy when I restore it )

By self-leveling suspension, does that mean it has air suspension in the back? I agree with Josh, that I don't think we Yanks ever got self-leveling suspension.

Here's my grandpa's 93 Legacy wagon after I cleaned it up for him. A few weeks ago, he decided to do this for me as a gift : So I fixed it for him, and he got a Legacy Turbo front bumper in the process. The magnets on the side are for the company he sold, that he's now working for part-time.

Seconded. Be grateful your car is a 95 with the non-interference EJ22 You don't have to do a compression test though. Just take one of the outside timing covers off (the ones in front of the cams), it takes about 5 mins to remove them, and then you can be 100% sure.

Here's an easier way: If you can see the center of the rear wheel, if it's not covered by a hubcap or center cap... if it has just a metal round grease cap for the wheel bearing, it's FWD, and if it has an axle stub with a nut on it, it's 4WD...

I say drop the tranny. Much less wiring. Auto or manual? Are you sure it's the rear main leaking though? I've NEVER seen a rear main leak on a Soobie...

Geez. C'mon people. No correct answers yet. The knock sensor on all EJ motors is bolted to the block, directly underneath the throttle body. It's a circular sensor that has one wire coming off of it. It can be accessed using a long extension on a ratchet.

I can't tell you anything other than: It's a Subaru thing. My 91 Legacy does it a lot if I'm not paying attention. MY XT isn't as bad, I think maybe because the final ratio is taller than the Legacy. Like Subie Gal said, just learn how to make it smooth. It can be done.

Want a cheap grocery-getter? Consider a Scion xA or xB. As ugly as they are, they're extremely fuel-efficient, have the Toyota reputation, and have waaay more room inside than you'd expect.

The Legacy should inherently be quieter than the Impreza, simply because the Legacy is a class above the Impreza. If you ask me, Subarus have never been the quietest cars, but that's fine with me. I hate driving in silence anyway Subarus are still some of the more reliable cars out there. Just keep up the maintenance, and you should be fine.

My water pump started making knocking noises at 118k. I thought it was engine knocking, scared me s***less!!

Great. Thanks Grandfather. I'm starting to get concerned about him driving. He said he hit someone in a parking lot today, which makes that 3 screw-ups he's done in 2 years. He backed into someone with his old Diamante, he bumped my XT backing out with his truck, and now this. He's only 66, but he's in worse shape than his age. Yeah, I won't have to pay for any of it, but I will still have to do the brunt of the parts-replacing labor. On top of what you see in the pic, the passenger door doesn't want to open, and the turn signal is cracked. F'ing great. I was hoping to enjoy a break from having to do car repair after I did Patti's strut mounts this weekend. :evil:

Speaking of Toyota and Subaru, get a starter contact set from a Toyota dealer for your Subaru starter. They're exactly the same

"Thank you so much God! Now just one more request: GET RID OF THE EDSEL NOSE!!

A good locksmith would get the keycode off the passenger side door lock cylinder and cut the key appropriately

About the only significant difference between the EJ18 and EJ22 is slight difference in head design and cylinder bore.

That's the only way I loosen cam bolts.

Too bad you're so far away, or I'd try to buy your old engine off of you.

Figures. Japan-only or not, the Subaru we once loved is gone, replaced by GM's money-hungry corporate kiss-rump roast attitude. Guess I'll hafta find a new brand in a few years.

I have to throw my typical reply to towing questions in here: If you're going to be towing something of decent heft (I'd say anything over 1000lbs), you might want to consider an auxiliary tranny cooler to keep the tranny fluid temp down. Subaru AT's are very good reliable transmissions... as long as they don't overheat!

I think you're jumping to conclusions a bit here. I do it too, so don't feel bad. 165 and 170 are excellent readings. They're right where they should be. 205 however, is honestly too high. It honestly sounds to me like the passenger side head has been pulled for some reason and rebuilt or at least cleaned up, whereas the driver's side head has never been off the engine and has too much carbon buildup on it. But that's a very rough theory, someone else should chime in and give a better diagnosis.

The black looks slightly less ugly because you can't see the Edsel look as easily...

First, can you lower your voice? You hurt my ears Second, how are you sure the AWD isn't working?