DerFahrer

Are the two green wires connected? This being an OBDI car, all you have to do is plug two wires under the dash together, depending on what diagnostic you want to perform. Black wires is U-check mode, where you just turn the ignition switch to On and the CEL will flash the code at you. Green wires is D-check mode, where you drive the car around, and the ECU does an active diagnostic, checking for any codes that might be happening then. Either one works fine, I always do D-check. But if it is in either of these two modes, the CEL will flash either the code at you, or flash steadily to say there are no codes. The CEL will continue to flash until the wires are disconnected.

OMG thank you!! Everyone has tried to feed me this garbage that Subaru is falling behind in sales and all that BS... Subaru has NEVER had a better time than right now!! The WRX is outselling any figures SOA ever predicted, and now every single Subaru line has a turbo model. They're kicking rump roast right now, and it's STILL not good enough for them

This, my friend, is exactly what I'm afraid Subaru is doing. That &^$*%$@ grill separates me and SOA from doing any business a few years from now.

My local dealer had a private showing of the Tribeca today, they apparently had a pre-release demo from a Jacksonville dealership that they were allowed to display. Since I've done thousands of dollars of business with this dealer, I found it only fair that I was invited to it. So, now that I've seen it in person: I still don't like it. I still want my Subarus to look like Subarus, not Alfas. Many people said it looks better in person; I don't agree. It is smaller than I thought it would be, it always looked bigger in pics to me, and that I like. But I still don't like the design, and I'm simply very disappointed that this grill will spread like a cancer all over the Subaru line. The interior is really quality-built I must say, everything felt durable and welcoming to the touch, just like all new Subarus. But the center stack is friggen ugly! Gauges are the electroluminescent or whatever it is like the other new Subarus: I think it needs waaay more room inside if it's to be properly called a midsize SUV. First off, the 3rd row (although folded down in this pic) is suitable for kids in a special situation and that's about it. And I think space while the 3rd row is folded down could be much better: I also found the passenger front footroom to be less-than-adequate for my 6'3" frame. If I scooted the seat back enough to give myself from room I'd squash the rear passenger's legs. The H6 does appear to have a little more breathing room in this car than the Outback. I can say I wouldn't be all that intimidated by a spark-plug change on this car: So it's not as big as I thought, and I think the interior, although poorly-laid-out, is quality. And that's about all I like. And of everyone I talked to today, I seem to be the only person who has this opinion. People just can't leave well enough alone can they?

Well, we got MPFI N/A's in the XT's but that was about it I think. According to 85Sub4WD, the 85 FWD GL-10 was the only car to get an MPFI N/A engine.

This has been hashed over in other threads. The LSD was optional on the 1991 Legacy Turbo only, and not available in any other years.

It took me a minute to remember, but yes I believe it is an MPFI. Crap, now you got me thinking Are they really that rare?

There is a rarity in a junkyard near me, a GL-10 nonturbo with the digidash. If it wasn't FWD, I'd go so far as to have them pick the DL wagon off its roof and buy it from them. But I might be able to yank the digidash out of it

Hehe, you're absolutely right, he definitely tells his share of tall tales

Might wanna consider this too: If it's an auto, ATF is also running through your radiator. The tranny is under strain on an incline, so it will heat up the ATF a bit more. But if your car is seriously overheating, then this probably is a small factor. Have it checked out though, if it's serious, you WILL blow a HG/crack a head.

This sounds stupid, but check your charging system. If you've got a battery/alt on its way out, your windows may be very slow and may not even roll up all the way. Regulators, on scale of 1-10, 10 being hardest, are about a 4. The worst thing is expense. You risk breaking a JY one upon removal, and new ones are pricey and hard-to-find.

My granpa's new 93 Legacy wagon AWD AT is extremely weird. He gets 26mpg out of it and he's a leadfoot, while I barely get 20mpg out of it and I drive nice

I've said it plenty of times already, but I will never own a Subaru with that grill on it. Even if that means I never buy another Subaru.

EA71: used in early Gen 1 Subarus in 70's and such. 1.6L OHV. EA81: used in Gen 2 Subarus through 80's. 1.8L OHV. EA82: used in Gen 3 Subarus (85-up DL/GL, XT, Loyale) through 94. 1.8L SOHC. ER27: used in XT6 only. 2.7L SOHC 6cyl. EJ22: used in many New-Gen Subarus, starting with 90 Legacy and ending with 01 Impreza. Two variations: 2.2L SOHC and 2.2L-T SOHC Phase I (hyd lifters) and 2.2 L SOHC Phase II (solid lifters). EG33: used in SVX only. 3.3L DOHC 6cyl. EJ18: used in base Impreza. 1.8L SOHC. EJ25: used in new Subarus starting with 96 Legacy/Outback (I believe). Most basic engine available today. Several variations: 2.5L Phase I (DOHC), 2.5L Phase II (SOHC), and 2.5L-T DOHC (all new turbo models except WRX) EZ30: used in Outback H6's and upcoming Tribeca. 3.0L DOHC 6cyl. EJ20: used in WRX. 2.0L-T DOHC. The only one I dunno is the Justy.

Just what powderhound said, check your treadwear on the others. I think you'll be okay, but it's definitely worth checking.

You are wise in wanting to replace the whole axle instead of just the boot. It's entirely possible that foreign material/loss of grease could have damaged the current axle enough that just repacking and rebooting won't solve the problem. I strongly recommend www.cvaxles.com for all your Subaru axle needs. Final cost of the reman axle is $55, with a proven lifetime guarantee, and a reputation that is surpassed by no other.

I don't think that will hurt much of anything. It won't help I'm afraid :-\ but I wouldn't freak over it. If you want the peace of mind, go buy a new set of oil pump rotors for $120 from the dealer

You will sacrifice the Impreza's handling characteristics, but you will love the torque your engine will have. Subaru specifically designed the overseas Forester 2.0T's to have more low-end torque over high-end HP. I am fervently against VW's anyway, so naturally I will tell you to go with the Forester and take pics!!

When I change my oil, I put a quart over what it calls for to compensate for the oil filter. When I check my oil after running it, it's exactly at the F mark.

You're on the right track, but not quite. The throwout bearing pushes the pressure plate inwards toward the engine when you depress the pedal. So using that, we can deduce what will happen. If the cable is too loose, there will be slack in the cable which will have to be taken up before the clutch is disengaged. So the release point will be much farther down on the pedal than it's supposed to, possibly far enough that the clutch will always be somewhat engaged, making it impossible to start the car in anything other than Neutral, and making it impossible to shift gears. At the other extreme, if the cable is too tight, it will be pulling on the clutch fork at all times and the throwout bearing will never leave the PP. In this case, the release point will be very high on the cable, and it might be possible that the clutch never fully engages (i.e. slipping). I learned all this the hard way after I put my transmission back in and tightened the cable waaay too much, thinking the opposite (that the clutch would release early if the cable was too tight). I was going to adjust it by feel later.

I have been missing all sorts of stuff on this board lately :-\ There is nothing wrong with small turbos as long as you can accept the fact that you can't run high boost with them. They will spool up a lot faster and turbo lag will be almost nonexistant. If you can hold yourself back on boost enough where you don't need an intercooler, then you will REALLY have boost anytime you want.

If it's RPM related then I'm going to say lifters. What kind of oil do you use? Do you have enough oil? Also consider that the engine does have 175k, and that if the timing belt has not been changed recently that the oil pump seals could be old and allowing air to enter the oil and exacerbate the valve tapping. And frag is right, the EJ22 is not an interference engine, so don't concern yourself with that.

Thanks a bunch for the chart though, Gary! That helps out a lot! But do notice that my 4WD XT with air ride has a 20mm rear bar already, which is the thickest of the bunch... So I'll just leave that.

See? I'm not a n00b. I searched and bumped an old thread... Did we say that the RX front swaybar was 18mm? My XT (4cyl 4WD with air ride) has a 19mm front swaybar and it plows horribly. If we can confirm that the RX has an 18mm front swaybar, then I will post a thread in the Marketplace asking for one... Thanks guys

Hey guys, been a while since I posted. My grandfather bought a 93 Legacy wagon last weekend, much to my delight . It is a 93 L AWD AT, with 110k miles. He got it for $2k. It's in pretty good shape and drives excellent, and even though he bought it for work, he knows I'll probably be driving it more and I'm sure I'll end up inheriting it in the next couple years anyway . The bugaboos are a dent in the rear hatch and bumper (in the pics), the car had its original timing belt at 110k but I changed that this weekend, and it's got a crack in the windshield (also in the pics). Anyway here it is, click on the pics to enlarge... The dent in the hatch: Crack in the windshield: The family, probably the only driveway in FL with 3 different Soobs in it