DerFahrer

Well, the last year for Legacy Turbos was 1994, so yours is either a 1994 or nonturbo... To some Joe Schmoe on the street it's not worth anything more than a regular Legacy. To someone who is a collector/enthusiast of such cars (we have our own group at LegacyCentral), it's worth a bit more. This is all depending on condition though...

Granted you have to take the wheels off to do brakes, so yes jackstands are necessary for that... But has everyone forgotten the timeless beauty of ramps? I have a set of Blitz ramps that I use all the time, from doing exhaust work to doing shifter bushings. That's the absolute safest way to raise your car off the ground if you don't have to remove your wheels...

Why don't you buy it subGSR? Too pricey or don't have the room or what?

I stand corrected, Emily. So if I were to buy an EA82T block off you guys, rig up a 16G turbo and set the boost at 17lbs, you're saying that I can put full boost on the engine almost as soon as I crank it up???

My understanding is that you're not supposed to put full boost on new unseated rings... But yes, what THAWA said holds somewhat true. Do you actually think that they put a new engine together and put it right in the car without doing any testing to it whatsoever?? I'm sure every one of our engines saw redline numerous times before they were even put in our cars... But it is true that the #1 rule is to vary the engine speed, as Adnan said... If you do 80mph nonstop for the first 1000 miles, you're going to notice your new engine start to burn oil at maybe 20k miles instead of 200K...

I see THREE threads on just this page that are overheating/blown headgaskets related. Two of them are Phase I's, one is a Phase II... This saddens me. I do a lot of Subaru praising around my friends, those who don't really like them. But sometimes I wonder if maybe I'm giving too much praise...

This won't go on my XT. I've got the boost bug BAD, and getting to drive Manny's monster XT didn't help . So I'm very very seriously considering building a Turbowagon in a very similar fashion... That's what this oil cooler would be for. Thanks for looking out though

We over on LCo have a member who put DOHC EJ20 heads on a new EJ22T block and put it in his 99 OBS. Car hauls, and not surprisingly sounds more like an EJ20 than an EJ22... There's nothing wrong with an EJ18 either. Two EJ18 Imprezas are turbo'ed here locally, I haven't seen anything of the FWD auto 4-door Impreza that the guy put a turbo on, maybe he blew it up. But a Subaru tech at my local dealer has a 96 Impreza Brighton coupe with a turbo'ed EJ18. Car is a monster, it's only held back by its less-than-skillful driver

Ya learn something everyday

My opinion as expressed many times before: - Let the axle tear itself to shreds. Get as much use out of it as you can. - Once you start hearing clunking as you accelerate in a straight line, it's done. - Replace the axle with a rebuilt unit from www.cvaxles.com for $55. - Rest assured you have one of the best built axles in the world, and a proven lifetime warranty

I'll sign up this week for sure. I have a question though: The way the threads are on the oil pump and the cooler adaptor, does it end up that the hose attachments will ALWAYS face down? Or can it possibly happen that they could face another direction?

He's in Finland, so he's got different stuff than us, but still the smallest EA Subaru engine I know of is a 1.4 and I don't know the code for that...

I am going to do a very thorough write-up for the USRM pretty soon on how to rip your whole shifter out and replace every last bushing. It's an absolute nightmare if your car has any age on it. I've done it twice now, on both my cars, and this was replacing bushings that were MISSING entirely. When I get around to doing it, I'll try to remember to post a link to it.

HAHA Manny, no kidding I was JUST about to inform you of this!!! I will make a phone call sometime this week... Thanks WJM for getting these for us!!!

Okay, I'm extremely late to the ballgame here. Permanent availability means that I can place an order for one by myself, I don't need 4 other people? (I might be able to get one other person in this though...) If so, I'll do it! If I don't see any response in this thread, I'll PM you WJM...

The meet was a big hit! 4 XT's and 4 SVX's. Pics can be found here: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3047

Yeah no kidding! Some of us dinosaurs are still on 56k here

Wow!!! What a pristine car! I LOVE that color on the XT6's, it's my favorite! You definitely need to head over to www.xt6.net and sign up. The information for your car is endless there! Nice find!

My Legacy's HH is still original and untouched at 137k, but for some reason, my XT's HH sprung a leak around 104k :-\

Using the latest Drive Performance Magazine as a resource, here's what I know about the DCCD (Driver Controlled Center Differential) on the STi. It does indeed appear that it has a multi-plate transfer clutch like the Subaru automatics, which would be the first time this technology has ever been used in a Subaru manual. They have always used a simple viscous coupling in Subaru manuals. The system depends on a myriad of sensors: from wheel speed sensors, lateral G sensor with yaw control, and rear differential oil temperature switch, to tapping into the sensors the car already has; the ABS sensors, the throttle position sensor, the brake light switch, etc. It controls the traction situations automatically based on input from all these sensors, and it's probably the best idea to leave it this way if you're not driving competitively. But if you do choose to control it yourself, here's how it works: By turning the Manual switch on, you can adjust the center diff as having 35% power to the front and 65% power to the back when you turn the wheel all the way back, and as you move it forward, you send more power to the front wheels until you put it in L for Lock, in which the center diff is completely locked at 50/50. Subaru and I both recommend that you not lock the center diff on pavement, or you could damage anything from the transmission to the axles. Hope that clears up any questions.

On a slight incline it's not that big of a deal, but on a steep one, yes it REALLY comes in handy. It's never really necessary, but I don't particularly like to pull away from a stop at 3k rpms because I'm scared of careening into the guy behind me :-p It's not such a fantastic device when it springs a leak and leaves you with no brakes however. I speak from experience on that

The pressure on the tire is the MAXIMUM pressure the tire can hold. That's just about always waaay too much for the sake of tire wear. Your gas mileage might improve a bit, but those savings quickly vanish when you have to replace the tires 3 times as often. I have Michelin Symmetries on my Legacy right now and am 100% satisfied with them. They're a quiet tire with good ride quality and better-than-a-cheap-tire grip. I've done everything from going through mud to running the Dragon with them. $400 installed but that was with lifetime rotation and balance, so I got a deal actually...

Call me sick and twisted, but I actually wanna see pics

THAWA, I've always understood the OBD II changeover to occur in 95...

I feel comfortable saying that the new 6MT in the STi is probably the strongest. That is Subaru's first all-new transmission in 20 years. It's built to handle 300hp stock obviously, it has dual-cone synchros on ever gear except 2nd, which has triple-cone synchros. It's got its own oil cooler, too. But if you don't wanna spend $7500 on a brand new STi tranny , then you could look for a overseas gearset, literally dozens of people have WRX type RA gearboxes and the like in their cars here...