DerFahrer

Alright jmlaser, I need to come clean. Sorry to have misled you. I found an article in the newest Motor Trend this past weekend about the new Forester STi in Japan (such a sweet ride, 266hp, 1-inch drop, 6MT:slobber: ). It has an upgraded version of the semi-closed deck EJ25 that's in our Forester XT, but with 56 more HP. So there is a JDM EJ25. Please accept my apology.

What a beautiful car, and to think it used to be almost a junkyard heap. Excellent work!

I like the idea, except when it springs a leak and you lose your brakes when approaching a Stop sign!

I will sign up for a charter subscription soon, I promise

It's the whole thing. There are two parts to it, the electrical part on top (basically a solenoid) and the valve itself on the bottom, that's what's bolted to the manifold. My suggestion is that you do nothing to alter the position of these two parts relative to each other. They're set from the factory much the same way as the TPS sensor is on the throttle body.

Yeah, that's what I mean. Poo!

In my continuing quest to buy as much stuff for my XT from eBay (the car itself came from eBay, figured I'd keep up the trend ), I found a set of EA82T ignition rotors, but my 1988 XT isn't turbo. Can I use these? Thanks...

That's the one huh? I'm going to email him and tell him how full of it he is. That's just a regular DOHC 2.5 out of an Outback or Legacy, hell it probably has a blown headgasket. AVCS my behind... As THAWA said, that's no turbo motor, the turbo exhaust would be in the way of that thermostat. There are 2.5's outside the US, quite a few in Europe, but not in Japan. They have no need for a 2.5 in Japan, the 2.0 nonturbo does fine for them as a commuter car, and they have the best 2.0 turbos of anybody.

Both my cars came with original owner's manuals

GD, hate to say this, but it's the opposite. 2WD axles are thicker and have bigger joints. The reason: If you have only 2 axles pushing the car, there will be more stress on them than 4 axles. I actually have one 2WD axle and one 4WD axle on the front of my 4WD Legacy. You can easily tell the difference, the 2WD one is quite thicker. These axles are from www.cvaxles.com by the way. They are the BEST Subaru axle builders in the world as far as I'm concerned. People in Europe rally with their axles, and they're just a small shop in Ocala, FL, about an hour from me. $55 an axle, tough as nails, true lifetime warranty (I've tested it)...

This is a GSR I'm pretty sure. Click to enlarge it: That is definitely a prize subGSR. I'm sure you're going to hang onto it as long as you possibly can. I myself might have one of maybe 10 XT/XT6's in the Orlando area.

AWD, manual. And the car has 135k miles too. I couldn't believe it myself!

Sorry dude, but that guy is feeding you a pile of it. There is no JDM EJ25, at all. That's just the US. And that DE designation on the end further proves that he's full of crap. DE means Direct Injection, Electronic Ignition and are Nissan engine designations. If you found a JDM EJ20 with AVCS then I'll believe it. That came out of a 02-up STi. My personal preference though would be to find an EJ20G from a 94 JDM WRX or STi. That is a closed-deck block design, which is stronger and cooled better.

I will sign up next week, and might submit pics of my old-school Subies for the Reader Rides

Your engine will have to be well-tuned up to make these kind of MPG numbers, but it's not impossible. I'm obsessively anal-retentive about how well my Legacy runs, and coming back from the Dragon in NC, on I-75, going 85-90 the whole way, I was averaging 34mpg

It's an IAC valve problem. I had it on my 91 Legacy. And IAC valves are not fun... I tried cleaning mine with carb cleaner and only gunked it up instead; since it was my only car then, I bit the bullet and bought a shiny-new IAC valve from the dealer for a mere $362 , which is a royal PITA to install too. I probably would have tried cleaning it with brake cleaner, which I suggest you try. That will evaporate and not leave any residue. Take the big hose off of it that runs from the intake hose and spray some cleaner in there, and wait for it to evaporate before starting the engine... Just be careful though, it's a delicate instrument.

So did I Here are the pics of my XT with edrach's Rally alloy wheels, click on the pics to enlarge...

You now have what just might be the toughest and most reliable Subaru ever made. Congrats!

88 XT GL here. I'm actually setting a goal for myself as to just how much I can restore the car with eBay stuff Currently it has eBay timing belts and front oil seals, an eBay MAF sensor, an eBay alternator, I expect to win a set of eBay plug wires in a day or so, and who knows what else? I just put a set of alloys on it last week, and will edit this post later today when I get pics of it...

Did one on my XT. Also a PITA. I used a tie-rod fork and a good ole hammer to beat the joint out of the arm, over an HOUR of hammering. That was the hard part though. New one slipped in no prob.

Looks good!

Depends on what interval you're changing them. If you're at 60k (doubtful )then you can probably get away with just the belts themselves. At 120k, I would recommend doing all the front oil seals (crank, cams, oil pump seals) and check the idler/tensioner pulleys to be sure they spin freely. Couldn't hurt to do an H2O pump either. If you've got high mileage and you don't know what's been done, go ahead and do it and drive it worry-free...

Trust me, I do too. The motor mounts I put on my Legacy were brand-new liquid-filled OEM mounts from the dealer for a mere $330 I need to finish up my R134 A/C conversion on my Legacy, and I'm doing that by putting in a new compressor, and replacing the pressure lines with R134-style fittings already on it, and completing it with an actual Subaru R134 sticker to replace the R12 one on my rad support I could go on... I am obsessive in the way I invest money in my cars, but I cheap out on spark plugs and gear oil, because the cheapest forms of these work best IMO... But what works best for you Setright, go with it

Other GM-Subaru cooperation: The Chevy Borrego concept, which has a WRX drivetrain: The Japan-market Subaru Traviq, pictured below: ...is the same thing as this European Vauxhall/Opel Zafira:

Torque bind doesn't exist on 5spd's THAWA What color is it? Maybe we know this guy on LegacyCentral as STi_GUY, he had a 94 Ti wagon 5spd, the only one we knew of.