DerFahrer

Poor Roxanne! She'll make it, she's tough You should tighten it more than that. I'm not sure about EA82's (I will find out soon though :\) but MANY 90-94 Legacies have wobbled crank pullies loose, eaten up keyways and ruined the cranks, deeming the engine worthless. All because some schmo that wrote up the manual said 80ft/lbs instead of 110ft/lbs. I didn't have a torque wrench when I did my Legacy's timing belt, but after reading the harrowing stories, I went back out and gave it one last good hard tug to be 100% positive. They're pretty beefy bolts, so I wouldn't worry a whole bunch about breaking it off. Good luck with the rebuild!

The GT designates the higher end Legacy. For now, all that means is a luxury package, but when the 05 Legacy comes out, the GT will be the turbo model STi stands for Subaru Technica International, it's Subaru's high-performance line, kind of like Mugen is to Honda. The Impreza WRX STi is the supercar in Subaru's lineup. It's a WRX with a 2.5 turbo instead of a 2.0 turbo, 300 hp instead of 227 hp, 6-speed instead of 5-speed. It just might be the fastest factory Subaru ever. WRC stands for the World Rally Championship. It's a time-trial type of racing that mostly takes place on dirt roads in Europe. Cars such as Subaru, Mitsubishi, Peugeot, Citroen, and Skoda/Seat/VW all compete in the WRC. The WRX is just a designation for a turbo Impreza, it stands for World Rally eXperimental. That answer your questions?

I have just a nice set of Michelin Symmetry all-season tires, stock size, that were pumped up to 35lbs for the race. Yes this is true. The secondary turbo on an EJ20TT would try to occupy the same space as an LHD brake MC. This is entirely true. I entered the rallyX just to play around and have fun, and to learn my car a bit better. And get this: That was my first time ever playing in the dirt. I posted a 1:24 for my 3rd run in my bone-stock Legacy, a guy here in Orlando with a WRX with some engine mods ran a 1:33. He didn't even bother doing his 4th run, he was doing so bad.

When I read your title, I had a simple response already summed up: Put a good driver in it I had an experienced SCCA licensed-autoX'er run my 91 Legacy 5spd AWD in a rallyX last month. He came in 2nd overall! He beat every WRX, STi, RS and everything else except his brother, another SCCA driver with a GSX with 20lbs boost In fact, the pic in my sig is him driving it...:cool: My car has completely stock suspension, no intake, no exhaust, no mods whatsoever. Just very good Michelin tires and a very picky owner who fixes everything possible. That said, if you fixed up your Legacy, and by that I mean get the drivetrain running correctly, got good suspension (which you already have) and put some good all-season tires on it, you could be VERY competitive in a rally. BUT you need to be able to drive. AutoX'ing and rallyX'ing are about the driver, not the car!

Hey John, good to see another enthusiastic XT owner:cool: Idle seems to be a bit funny on these cars. My XT, when I would first start it up in the morning, would require gas to keep it running. It would start, go up to about 1500, then head straight for 0, unless I caught it. It would bounce around for a second, then after about 30 seconds, sit pretty at 1000 rpm. I have not corrected anything about it, I just catch it and wait until idle is stable. It has not caused me any other problems (yet) As for the clutch, the fact that it's brand-new tells me that the disc is barely seated, which can cause some shuddering, and the fact that it's a Subaru clutch My Legacy's clutch has 20k on it (131k on the car) and I can still make it shudder really hard if I want to. My only tip is to alter your driving style to prevent that as much as possible. Anyway, enjoy your XT, and join us on xt6.net if you like. It's open to XT 4cyls as well as 6's

Anyone who says that Armor-All has cracked their dash is driving a poorly-made car. I have used Armor-All to clean my interior, other people's interiors, and have never seen one crack from it, ever. And I live in Florida, for Pete's sake! And no it's not heroine: I use it very sparingly. I have not Armor-Alled my dash in months, and it still looks great, aside from being a bit dusty.

The TD05 is a Mitsubishi turbo, also known as a 16G. Brian, this turbo is exactly what's on Jason's (or Vikash's) wrecked Legacy The VF11 is an IHI turbo. 91White-T on the BBS has one on the Legacy he's parting out, if he still has it. I'm turbo-stupid too, I know the basic principles, but I've never worked with turbos, so I can't say which is better. But both would be great upgrades from stock:cool:

Congrats on getting a car that us Americans can only dream about! To sell it in this country would be difficult, titling and passing inspections would be a real hassle. But with the immense growth of Subaru turbo popularity here in the States, you can probably get a decent price for it... Enjoy the car!

How many miles are on it? The power steering could be a bargaining tool. The XT6's (made in 1988, 1989, and 1991) used a complicated Cybrid power steering system that was electrically-driven, not engine-driven. Pumps can be very expensive new, and hard to find in a yard. Plus they must use Subaru-approved power steering fluid and nothing else. ATF will ruin the whole system immediately. Make it sound like a big deal and you might be able to get the car for cheap. Air ride was standard on 6's, and yes the system is doomed from the beginning. The seals grow old over time, the struts collapse and the car gets "slammed" and replacing all 4 struts can cost in the neighborhood of $2000. My XT 4cyl was rare in that it came with air suspension. The previous owner replaced the entire thing before I got it too So that could possibly another bargaining tool , but you can convert the suspension to conventional easily and cheaply. I'd say if the engine is running good, it's worth a shot. XT's/XT6's are growing rarer and rarer, they're absolute blasts to drive, and look cool too :cool:

This topic has been hashed over so much on the old USMB it isn't funny. I don't know if any of those threads made it over to the new board, but I feel differently than most on this topic. I refuse to use Redline, or any synthetic gear oil, in my Subaru MT's. I switched my Legacy over to Valvoline partial synth GL5 about 2 years ago. It drove peachy for a few months, then I would start grinding 4th a bit. Per someone's suggestion, I tried Redline 75W90NS GL5 in the tranny. Immediately, I was not able to shift into 4th without grinding unless I double-clutched. So I tried someone else's suggestion and mixed Redline MT90 GL4 with Redline 75W90NS GL5. Solved the problem entirely, but I had put GL4 oil in a transmission that asked for GL5. Upon making the stupid mistake of playing with the axle seals in the tranny when changing axles, I made a huge leak (by huge I mean leaving a quart of gear oil on the driveway overnight ). So I began pouring whatever oil I could get in there until I had a professional fix it. I drove the fixed car away from the dealer with the previous GL4-GL5 mix, Mobil 1 synth, Redline 85W140, and whatever the dealer put in to compensate for the loss in my tranny! It shifted fine. Feeling uneasy abour having 50 different types of gear oil in my tranny, I took Legacy777's suggestion, who doesn't even own an MT Subie , and put straight Castrol dino 80W90 in the tranny. It shifted more smoothly than any other oil I used before. I put the same oil in the XT when I got it with no problems, and after I did my tranny drop on the Legacy, I bought some el cheapo Coastal 80W90 in a gallon container from Discount for $5, and mixed that in with the rest of the Castrol I had around. That's what's in the Legacy now, and it shifts beautifully. Therefore, synthetic oil is too slick for Subaru manual transmissions. Its extra-slick properties do not allow enough friction in the synchronizers and the gear speeds are not properly matched. Others on different Subaru boards have tried my methods and reported similar results. I feel my argument is based enough on simple trial-and-error to refute any mathematical claims Redline or anyone else may make.

02-03 TS's and OBS's had rear drum brakes, now all Imprezas, and all Subarus for that matter, have disc brakes at all 4 corners.

Josh (Legacy777) had one on his 90 Legacy forever. He did report a dimming of lights and such at idle coz the alt. simply wasn't spinning fast enough, but I don't think anything else happened. He now has stock-sized, but lightened, pulleys...

I have gotten in more wars on here about this topic than you would believe. I tried Redline full-synth gear oil in my gearbox for a while. It was horrible. I had to double-clutch to shift into 4th, otherwise I would grind. My theory is that synth is too slick to allow proper synchronization of the gears in Subaru trannies. It's possible that it's too hot here in FL for me to use synth, I dunno. But for my situation, I have to go with dino.

I didn't know it would be that drastic of a difference. My 91 Legacy has a 98 Legacy GT exhaust on it right now, and I love it, especially since I paid only for shipping . It bolted up absolutely perfectly. Since a 2.5RS exhaust is very similar, and I know someone with a WRX exhaust on their RS, I wouldn't doubt a WRX exhaust fitting my car either.

Subaru MT AWD basically just had a viscous LSD as a center differential that normally splits the torque 50/50 but can vary on either side depending on conditions. The old Subaru AT AWD system used an electronically-controlled clutch pack that changes the torque from the normal 90/10 split to as much as 50/50. AFAIK, Honda's "Real-Time" 4WD is 100/0 until the front starts slipping, qhich by then might already be too late.

I'm in the process of a timing belt change/complete front oil seal replacement procedure on my 88 XT. I am taking my swet time with it because I have college finals coming up and work kills me. I've gotten the timing belts off and I'm disassembling the oil pump to reseal it. The cam seals are cake, I LOVE how I can just remove the retainer out of the car. However, the crank seal looks to be much more difficult, simply because I don't know how I'm going to get the crank sprockets off. On my Legacy it was no big deal because that one will come off with a steering wheel puller. I don't see these tiny things coming off with that. How have the rest of you removed yours? I hope I dont have to resort prying it off with a screwdriver :-\

It won't be the first time I've driven to Tampa to get a Scoob Some details on it? How many miles? Dual-range? Rust-free?

Assuming the car has been reasonably taken care of, the car is barely sucking its thumb at 154k. The 4EAT tranny has proven to be more sturdy under abuse than a 5MT, so it should be fine assuming maintenance has been done. I have a truly pristine example of a 91 Legacy with not even 130k miles yet, and it runs so perfectly you would think it's a brand-new car. The air-ride is a nightmare for any car. It's doomed to failure right off the showroom floor. If your shocks haven't collapsed already, they 1) will very soon or 2) have been replaced. My XT has air ride and it has been replaced. Fortunately, you can convert it over to conventional suspension simply and cheaply. Legacies aren't great on mileage, I'm afraid. I've gotten below 20mpg average in my 4WD 5MT sedan, Yours being a heavier wagon 4WD auto might be even worse. But I've gotten as much as 25mpg average. Just depends, really. You might wanna check out the Legacy BBS for 1st-gen Legacy owners, we've covered every topic exhaustively there, so TONS of info is available...

I'm not crazy about platinum plugs of any kind, but at least they're a Japanese brand... Here is a rule to follow with spark plugs: Use plugs made in the country your car was made in. If it's Japanese, use NGK, NipponDenso, etc. If it's German, use Bosch or sumthin. If it's American, use Champion, Delco, whatever. Each car will be happiest with a plug of the same origin.

Get an older EJ22. They're not as powerful as the newer ones, but if they're taken care of, they will last longer. The old ones have hydraulic lifters, the 99-up ones have solid ones. The solids need adjusting every 100k, and the hydraulics get gummed up if routine oil changes are not performed. But the kicker is, the newer EJ22's do have some piston slap problems. I've got very close to 130k miles on my 91 Legacy EJ22 and it runs better than many new cars I've driven. They're just awesome motors...

I bought a used MAF off eBay for my XT, and it had a spider in it, with a web! I sprayed it out with brake cleaner, and used it, hoping to solve a stumbling/hesitating problem I was having, but it didn't make any difference. One MAF is as good as the other...

This is correct. There should be no secondary hoses on an AT MC. Calebz has swapped his MC over to an auto to get rid of his HH valve... But keep in mind, CCR engines sells rebuilt HH valves for a very reasonable price, worth keeping the valve IMO...

Definitely NOT a good idea. You can seriously screw up the bearings by putting weight on the hub without the castle nut on the axle. Just hammer the old one out, put the new one on the tranny FIRST, then feed it into the hub as far as it will go. Then hammer the hub against the axle and it will come through. You shouldn't damage anything as long as it's lined up correctly when you start hammering at it. The hydraulic press that you're supposed to use does the same thing, just more gracefully...

Is is FWD or 4WD? Needless to say, a FWD would be easier. Switching the actualy transmission components wouldn't be that bad (just bolt up a flex plate to the engine and install your autobox with TC up to it)... But some of the electronic stuff would be tricky. If you were to do this, I would get a 4AT and not a 4EAT. The E means electronic, which means you'd have to buy a TCU and hook that up. I might be wrong, but manuals use a gear-driven speedo cable, whilst autos use an electronic vehicle speed sensor. The idling system is different between AT/MT, and you'll need a different starter. If it's 4WD, then you've really got a jam. Since VERY few XT's came with fulltime 4WD trannys, you'd end up with a pushbutton most likely, so you'd have to rig up a different switch. I'm not normally one to say this, but if your wife can't drive a 5spd anymore, it might be time to pass the car on. I know more than anyone else how hard it is to part with such a great car, but it's really not worth the hassle IMO... Good luck whichever you decide to do!

Check the pic in my sig