DerFahrer

Adwolf, where in FL are you? Honestly, I'm getting obsessed to the point that I don't do "checkups." If something on my car needs replacing, it gets replaced. Sometimes it doesn't even need replacing, like I might take my spark plugs out in a few months just to check their condition and the engine's condition. I'll replace them, since NGK plugs are so cheap, it's dumb to reuse a spark plug anyway.

I agree wholeheartedly. I replaced all my factory struts with Monroe Sensatracs on my Legacy. It still rides good, not floaty, but the body roll is shameful! I feel like I'm going to roll over before I get the tires loose! That's why I am without a doubt replacing them with KYB GR2's this summer, along with a Legacy Turbo rear swaybar that's on its way to my house right now

Correct. Don't touch it, you have absolutely no reason to. Even if your idle is low and you're looking to raise it, the ECU will just recognize that and adjust the IAC valve to compensate. Back when I was stupid and didn't know what I was doing with the car, I tightened that screw down so much I broke the head off of it. The remnant of that screw is sitting in my throttle body right now as we speak, completely misadjusted, which is why my idle is still erratic. That broken screw is near impossible to reach, I'm pondering removing the throttle body entirely and taking it to the dealer to have them flow test it in order to set a new screw in there at factory location. You probably have an IAC problem of some sort.

Is it possible that the TPS just needs adjusting and not replacing?

I left my oil pump alone completely when I did my timing belt. It was not leaking anywhere. The crank seal was leaking so I replaced it, and now it appears my left cam seal has started leaking and I'm gonna hafta go back in there and replace them

Right here! I started a thread a long time ago when we were still on the ezBoard site, asking that very same question I am probably the ONLY person in Orlando that knows the old Scoobs. I have one other BC-BF Legacy friend here and NO 80's Scoob friends here And since you're in St. Pete, looks like it'll stay that way

I seriously doubt it's a FT4WD if it's from an XT 4cyl. Those were the FT4WD XT Turbos that were only made in the 87.5 model year... I'd be more than willing to say if it's a 5spd XT 4WD tranny it's probly a pushbutton.

I would be more than happy to pay to have that magazine shipped all the way to my house every single month just to look at the pictures!!!

Do a search, it's been discussed before... I used them, they're good wires, well engineered, but don't expect two things: 1) any big HP gains 2) easy installation Make ABSOLUTELY sure they click on the contacts on both plug and coilpack. I ruined my coilpack by improperly installing the #4 wire and causing it to arc.

Check your vacuum hoses around the charcoal canister. It should be right next to the radiator on the pass. side. That canister collects fumes out of the tank, so if a leak were to develop, a strong fuel odor would emanate from it.

It's in the gas tank. Pry up your backseat, and you should see the wire leading to it on the passenger side. You pull the whole fuel pump/sending unit out inside the car...

I have never seen the Haynes manual be more wrong about something. No, there is absolutely no reason to remove the intake manifold, and not one drop of coolant comes in contact with the sensor. Just unscrew the bolt and remove the old sensor, and then put the new sensor in place and lower the bolt in place with a long magnet-reacher (you NEED to do this, unless you wanna drop the bolt down onto the block under the intake manifold, never to be seen again ) then retighten and plug it in. 1st-gen Legacies' original sensors had a grey connector to the wiring harness. These sensors are known for being oversensitive and sometimes crack. Your new sensor should come with a white connector, this one is updated and has addressed some of these issues.

Last I heard, Subaru is co-developing a boxer diesel engine with Isuzu, its next-door neighbor in the SIA plant in Indiana... 99obw has addressed the only concern, they would have to make a halfway-decent headgasket that can hold some 18:1 CR, they can't even make one to hold 9.5:1 CR :brolleye: Other than that, I would LOVE to have one. Think about it, guys. Subaru already having a rock-hard reputation for tough bottom-ends making something with an even-beefier bottom end, then you have the already torque-happy boxer design, then multiplied 3 times over. If they take to it with the same vigor that they did the EJ22T or the EJ257 in the STi/Forester-T/Baja-T, then it would be a fantastic enterprise!

This is a far more elusive problem than that, I'm afraid... I have had the hesitation pretty much every single time I pull away from a stop in the 3½ years I've had the car. I have: kept fresh, properly-gapped NGK V-power plugs in the car plug wires and coilpack recently replaced changed the fuel filter at or before interval put a new alternator, knock sensor, and motor mounts on the car run 89 octane gas (BC/BF nonturbo Legacies don't like 93) tried pretty much everything else I can think of. Someone with a 91 turbo recommended I try a fuel injector cleaner called Lubro-Moly Jectron. It's a German formula used in VW/Mercedes, etc. I was told to run 3 tanks of it. 1st tank=nothing, 2nd tank= great improvement, but still there. I just filled up my 3rd tank yesterday and it's back to full hesitation again... I do believe this points to a fuel injector problem, but Legacy777 has put a complete set of brand-new balanced and blueprinted injectors on his Legacy to no avail... So, for now, you might hafta live with it until we come up with another possible solution

Several people have gotten EJ22T's from the junkyards for about $700-$800 USD. Try asking around on the Legacy BBS, IIRC, someone is parting out a 91 turbo in the Parts Shed...

I didn't do my cam seals when I did my 2.2 timing belt (I should have, one is leaking now ), but couldn't you just leave whatever construct you used to keep the engine still to remove the crank pulley, in place and with the timing belt still on and tense, remove the nuts for the cam sprockets? Then to reinstall them, put the belt back on and put some tension on it, and retighten the nuts?

It can and has been done. Pick up the latest Sport Compact Car. They have a little ditty in there about swapping a WRX engine into any older Subaru. Some of the info in there might be useful.

I should have clarified more. By "sub-par" I meant that they felt rather cheap and poorly put-together. But I also agree that the interiors somehow hold together very nicely! I've beaten my interoir to shreds, I think, and it still would clean up to pretty-much new condition!

I didn't attend any seminars, but here is my personal experience with Valvoline synth vs. dino oils: Ran partial synth in my Legacy for over a year. Found out it was burning it. Switched to dino and stopped burning it. Ran the same partial synth in XT. Due to results from Legacy, switched back to dino. Oil pressure went up 2-3 lbs.

Unfortunately, any and all Subarus are susceptible to a blown HG. EJ22's can and have blown them, EJ25 DOHC's are the most notorious, and EA82T's will also blow them under hard boost... I have yet to fall victim to one, but my future Subaru endeavors will increase my chances...

Setright is right: 162k is LOW miles! He also covered the common oil leaks, and there is a hesitation issue and the interior materials are sub-par... Also check out http://bbs.legacycentral.org for LOTS more info...

The hippie driver makes hissing sounds from hitting the bong, and the engine in back makes hissing sounds from hitting the boost!!

Well then, my XT was on the verge of not being driveable when I first got it. Both front axles would THUNK hard even going straight! Definitely go http://www.cvaxles.com that's what both my Scoobs have up front, both sides...

I also agree that it's a Daewoo, therefore crap, but I think this is the best idea. Seriously. Just drive it until it breaks, then dispose of it on some moron for $1000... Think of it as a disposable car

My cooling system has been well-taken care of since the car was new, still have original radiator with no leaks anywhere, coolant is green as candy... At 118k, my water pump didn't squeal, but knocked ever-so-much like a rod knocking!!! It freaked me out! And a friend of mine in North Florida, did a timing belt change without replacing the pump, and not 4,000 miles later, his went out on him, had to do it all over again... Might as well while you're in there