DerFahrer

You know whether the car has been taken care of or not... if so then definitely go for it! That's a good price!

So you're saying that the rubber boot on the plug side is too long to allow the connectors to make contact? Are you sure you have the right wires?

If it's that cheap to replace the rear main, then go for it. Otherwise it's not a big deal. Few Scoobs leak from the rear main, my Legacy is dry as a bone in the bellhousing...

I honestly think some of you are too hard on your gearboxes. I do admit that when I drive (or abuse ) the Toyota truck at work, I slam that thing into gear as fast as I can, and RARELY grind gears. But I know that I simply can't do that with my Subarus. I have adjusted my driving style to suit their slow synchronization. And double-clutching does wonders as Setright said. Let's say you're going about 10 mph. It will take an immense amount of time of putting pressure on the synchro to get it up to speed before you can engage the gear. So just put it in Neutral, pop the gas to about 2500 rpm, and I'll bet the tranny slides smooth as butter into 1st gear. Then you can haul rump roast in 1st gear instead of bogging in 2nd. :cool: By doing this, you're basically overriding the synchros. You're doing the speed-matching yourself. It does take practice, but I was forced to learn how when I put that Redline garbage in my tranny. 4th gear would not engage without grinding unless I double-clutched. Now I use el cheapo Castrol 80W90 dino and have not ground a gear since.

Tell that dealer to shove it up their !@#$%$!!! In fact, I would report him to SOA if I dealt with them... As Alias said, torque bind does NOT happen to MT AWD transmissions. The donut wheel will not ruin the viscous coupling as long as you change it in a reasonable amount of time. 40 miles is perfectly reasonable... It has to be an axle. Repetitive and speed-dependant say it right there. But what would help immensely is if you tell us where the clunk is coming from ...

Join us over on the BC-BF Legacy forum when you do get this VERY rare car... I would swap a Legacy Turbo 5MT into it. A WRX tranny will fit, but I'm inclined to say the Turbo tranny is slightly stronger. Not much, but enough to consider it... Then you can leave the stock rear diff, since your ratios will match, if you swap in WRX tranny, you might need rear diff too. A WRX intake manifold will not fit, as is the current consensus. Not only is there no place to mount a coilpack on a WRX manifold, as WRX's are coil-on-plug, but the mounting points on the head are too different. I do believe WRX exhaust will fit though. But come over on the forum aforementioned. TONS of good info over there.

What's with this slew of Scoobs throwing rods lately? We always brag about how tough Subaru bottom ends are! He must have driven it dry... The EJ22 and EJ22T, IMO, are Subaru's best engines ever!

I believe the MAP sensor is on the right strut tower somewhere??? Don't hold me to that though... The MAF sensor is a big sensor between your airbox and intake hose, that's not easily missed

^^^ Oh yeah Whoops :brolleye:

Check the coilpack, that's probably headed south... Subarus have never had good gas mileage. My opinion is that they're set to run a bit rich from the factory, just for safe-keeping... But this is a great place to get help, lots of knowledgeable people here. Welcome! :cool:

Neither does my N/A spider have an EGR. I think a spider intake is a spider intake, so if the turbo one doesn't have it, the N/A won't either... The BC-BF Legacies don't have EGR valves either, and they pass emissions without problem. I would be willing to say the cat does a more complete job of killing noxious fumes on these models.

You mean she didn't see the oil light that definitely would have come on before accomplishing the impossible of sending a Subaru rod through the block?

Impossible for anything manifold related to work. That's obvious. I seriously doubt it anyway, since the SVX shares much more with a BC-BF Legacy than it does with an XT...

There's not much else besides a blown headgasket that would cause compression to be down only on one bank of cylinders...

I'm stumped as to why my XT has one absolutely useless belt? The back belt drives the PS pump and the A/C compressor. The front belt drives the PS pump, the A/C compressor, and the alternator. I could take the back belt off and all accessories will still be driven... And the point of this is?

Yep, it does look like a lot of work, but definitely well done! It will look a lot better when you paint it

Cool! Good price too! But how long do they last?

Could this be the problem? If your headgaskets are blown and your engine has no compression, then (if it's an MT) putting the vehicle in gear will do you little good. What you're doing there is trying to use the compression of the engine to hold it still. You would have to MASH the brakes real good to get it loose. You might need someone to put their body weight on the brakes for you...

Excuse me for hi-jacking the thread, but is a torque wrench really that necessary? Besides tightening head bolts or something that precise? I haven't used a torque wrench in YEARS, and have done a fair share of bolt tightening. I have never had one come loose, I haven't even broken a bolt in ages... Or do I just have a very good mechanic's feel?

You are leaking coolant to the outside of the engine, not the inside (the combustion chamber). Therefore, as long as the leak doesn't spread to the cylinder, and you keep replacing the coolant it's losing, of course you'll make it. Your compression is not in danger, I doubt you'll cause any head warpage. You're just throwing coolant away and making a big mess under your hood

Hehe... the difference between the Outback and Legacy/Impreza is some beefy body cladding and cool nameplates... That's about it The engines/transmissions are the same, parts will interchange all day long (a lot of people are calling Scoobs "Legos" recently because so much from one Sub will fit another Sub)... That said, if you're an Outback owner looking for performance mods, pretty much everything that will fit the Legacy or Impreza will fit your car, an Outback or Outback Sport, respectively. Try: http://www.isrperformance.com http://www.scoobymods.com http://www.xcceleration.com http://www.spomotorsports.com That should give you a good idea...

I forgot about this. You're right. Copper is the best conductive metal that you can get in a spark plug. Yes, silver does conduct better, but it's not exactly cheap

No matter what anyone says, if you want the BEST performance from a spark plug, look no further than NGK V-powers. Period. Copper is the best conductor of electricity that us humans know about, that is simple chemistry. Anyone that says a different type of plug performs better simply has not tuned their butt dyno right :-)... The only exception to this is when a car calls for plats or irids as per the manufacturer. Certain characteristics of the engine are designed for those plugs, and therefore that's what will run best. Copper is still a better conductor, but the engine was not designed to appreciate that :brolleye: As for other brands, here's a simple rule to follow: The origin of the plug should correspond to the origin of the car (read: Japanese cars run best with Japanese plugs, American with American, etc. etc.) Bosch plugs run GREAT in BMW's and Merc's, but not in Subarus. I have never heard truly positive reactions from people with Bosch plugs in their Scoobs. I myself had no increase in performance, only worse gas mileage. I understand that the "middle-of-the-head" spark plug location of EJ25's does not make the job any easier (EJ22's are on the upper side of the head, much easier ), but I would still remove the plugs more often than 60k to 100k to at least check their condition.

Mods: you can try a K&N panel filter (leave the airbox there, EJ22's don't like ram-air filters too much), Scoobymods or MRT or Stromung exhaust, stuff like that. There isn't much in the way of cheap, bolt-on HP mods that will get you any more than 2-5hp... Exterior: give RS wheels a shot, or WRX ones might work too... Identify where the oily substance is coming from. You have two choices: engine or transmission. Could be oil pan gasket, or could be tranny axle seals... Tough to say without more specifics... Good luck!

DOHC=more HP SOHC=more torque Even though the DOHC engines didn't make anymore HP, but the SOHC ones had more torque Lemme tell you all this: My XT is a very advanced SOHC 2-valve design , and while it's no rocket-powered Ferrari-killer, I can easily light up an inside tire on a 25mph corner in 2nd gear It does have very useable torque :cool: