DerFahrer

This is my belief as well. You don't know when the boot was torn, unless you check them every week, unlike most of us . Therefore you don't know how much grease has leaked out or how much dirt, debris, etc. has gotten in. Repacking the joint and replacing the boot is only a life support for what's probably already a ruined axle. http://www.cvaxles.com, http://www.cvaxles.com, http://www.cvaxles.com! These are the best Subaru axle manufacturers in the world. $55, lifetime warranty, built for rally cars overseas...

This is the most succinct thread I've ever read on this board!

If your engine can run synthetic without leaking or burning it too much, then yes you can, and yes it will be beneficial. The major plusses to synth oil are lower friction characteristics and resistance to breakdown, or sludging. However, my cars are too old and have too many miles, as I'm learning with my Legacy. I use the classic L14460 Purolator oil filter on my Legacy, I believe (as others have said) that it's OEM. Bosch filters are simply trash, I'm afraid. They're made by some el cheapo company in Timbuktu and only badged as a Bosch. I used a Bosch filter once and after breaking a filter wrench trying to get it off (only hand-tightened) I said no more...

My 91 Legacy Sedan has 127k miles on it. While it's in excellent shape for its age, it's hardly perfect. I'm being stupid right now and running partial synthetic oil in it, that's why it's burning a tad bit of oil. I'm gonna switch to full dino soon, but I have another bigger problem I need to fix: the clutch fork is wobbling on the throwout bearing, and I get to do my first tranny drop to fix it. Plus the front bumper wasn't painted right and is chipping. But the car should be near perfect by the end of this summer. It's really a restoration project. 127k really isn't high for these cars, some people have 200k and they still run peachy. Consider a 70k 90-94 Legacy still off the showroom floor :cool:

NGK V-powers are the best plugs you can put in your car. Period. I will stand by this until the day I die. The only problem with them is they don't last around the corner... But I personally think you should pull the plugs out to check your engine's condition more often than 60k anyway!

Well I drove the XT today... actually I was so happy to be driving it again, that I ended up driving almost 80 miles since 4:30 this afternoon The new HH valve from CCR engines (thanx guys :cool:) fixed the leak there, I now have reverse lights thanks to the new switch... But unfortunately, I'm being dumb and driving it around with a mushy pedal, because I think the front left caliper is crap. It never bled exactly right... Posted a want ad in the Marketplace already for two front calipers... But Man did I miss the car! I completely forgot how cool the interior is It's just amazing how much fun 97 hp can be

Sure, why not? I only have 5 Subaru shirts, not near enough Interested in decals too :-)

Crazyhorse, welcome! I'm glad you're getting that 6, knowing Porter, I'm sure the car was taken care of... He especially has a things for wedges, at the Tampa Subaru Challenge, he couldn't wait to come over and look at my XT... You can join us wedge freaks over on http://xt6.net/forum too. I don't even have a 6, but they've accepted me warmly, they'd be sure to do the same with you... Enjoy the car! :-)

Between some of us Legacy people, some have bought a generic 4-wire O2 sensor from http://www.oxygensensors.com . The part number I will get for the Legacy is #25-2400 or something like that, need to go research it again... Our stock ones are 3-wire, one for sensor input, one for the heater, and the 3rd for the heater to ground back to the ECU. The sensor input grounds through the exhaust. Well if your car is old and the exhaust is starting to rust, it's probably not a very good ground. So by splicing the 4th wire (sensor ground) with the heater ground, you can ground the sensor input to the ECU also, which should render you a more accurate sensor... I have yet to try this, but if I do, I will report back with results...

New gen thing. All the EA-series engines I've seen have the T-stat on the engine on the pass. side of the block. All the EJ-series engines I've seen have the T-stat in the water pump at the bottom of the driver's side of the engine...

All Subaru engines have stout bottom ends compared to other makes. The cranks are very strong, because the boxer design allows them to be shorter. Rods are rarely thrown. And from what I've heard, yes the ER27's were actually stronger than EA82's... Brat, I'm thinkin you spun a bearing, nothing hugely expensive...

Updated pic with my two ladies... and a bump for the thread Edit: I decided this pic looks better. I don't look like I'm gonna kill somebody

Yes. But I don't have cruise

It was not installed by Subaru, and I'm not 100% sure it even IS an OEM clutch. But with the way it shudders, it very well could be. Nevertheless, since a shadetree mechanic did the work (and very sloppily I might add ) I don't think they'll honor anything...

Trogdor is now telling me there's no VSS, only a very thick cable that I could not just snip... so it's not that... I don't know if I have a neutral safety switch, since I can start it in Neutral with the clutch engaged and I don't have cruise... There's the 4WD switch too... Oh well, I 'll be at the dealer tomorrow, I'll figure out what's what...

I had been chasing a gritty feeling in my clutch pedal for some time now, I figured it was just a bad cable, even though it was recently replaced... Well, it developed into a very irritating noise last night, and I had a friend depress the pedal while I watched the fork. It is wobbling inside the bellhousing!!! :madder: So now I get to do my first transmission drop and reattach the lever securely to the TOB... I theorize that is shook loose because: The clutch was replaced in the summer of 02, when all the clutch shudder TSB's were going around :temper: ... I can easily get the new clutch to shudder, so I believe it's a new OEM clutch. I'm guessing the few times I accidentally made it shudder probably wiggled the fork loose... So now I get to beg my family for Christmas money early, so I can get the XT operable again, so I can put the Leg back in the garage... :boohoo:

I don't with my Legacy, but the XT sits too low...

Bump... I need to know soon guys, so I know which part to order... The Legacy has decided to shake its clutch fork loose, so I gotta get the XT roadworthy again so I can drop the Leg's tranny TIA

Okay, sorry guys. This is a pushbutton 4WD manual 5-speed... They're black wires, black coating and black soot... The little plastic piece in the sensor spins in place and does not push in... sounds already like I pulled a VSS What sucks is, I had to cut the wire to get to the connector, so that sensor is gone... Hope it's not too pricey if it's a VSS

Come on guys... Please?

As a big model collector, Brat, can you tell me what size it is (1:24, 1:18, etc. etc.) and who makes it? If it's a well-known brand and size, I might be able to search around and find it. Or if not, you can put me on the growing list of people who would want one from ya... :-)

Run the engine, and then the new oil filter should take up what you are finding as "extra"...

Okay, I respect your position, I don't work for Subaru I'm afraid... What's different between the Legacy Turbo block and 22B block?

I took a switch out of the rear of the transmission on the driver's side, and it has a black connector. I'm hoping it was the reverse switch, as my reverse lights don't work, but I'm also aware that it could be the VSS... It's rather tight in there, I'm not 100% sure what I pulled out... TIA Edit: Made it more serious in hopes of getting a response

Hey Corky and Dennis, the EJ22T block in the Legacy Turbo and 22B are identical, trust me, I'm positive :-) The difference is the 22B got DOHC heads resembling those of an EJ20G, the Legacy Turbo got standard SOHC EJ22 heads...