DerFahrer

To stray from your question, I would not put an aftermarket T-stat in a Subie. I'm not as sure about this with EA-series engines, but I know that with EJ-series engines like my Legacy, it's a big no-no. Doesn't open at the right temp, doesn't flow right, etc. etc...

As far as I'm concerned, Subaru has never built a better engine than the EJ22T. People run 17 lbs of boost daily on completely stock EJ22T's with 200k miles. Mods are as simple as an intercooler and upgraded injectors... If you want to make huge HP numbers, the EJ22T is your ticket. The STi tranny would also be your best bet too. Keep in mind, the new 6MT Subaru tranny is the first ALL-NEW Subaru transmission in over 20 years!! That's right, the WRX tranny is a really-updated version of the 5MT transmissions your EA82's use... The 6MT has double-cone synchros on all gears except 2nd, which has triple cones. That tranny is built to take a beating!

Let me summarize what Alias is saying: There is not one traction control or braking assist or any other contraption in the whole world that will save you if you do something stupid. These systems are to help you use the laws of physics to your advantage, not defy them altogether... I know, I've done something stupid in my AWD Legacy before. I will admit to this even though I'm still embarrassed by it. I was pissed about something and proceeded to take a left-hand turn in the rain. For some reason, I decided to stomp on the gas before I was heading straight, because I had the same thought: I have AWD, I'm invincible! :brolleye: My rear end came out, and I countersteered too much, flew back the other direction and slid sideways and scuffed my bumper across a parked car.... Did little more than remove some of my paint, but I screwed the parked car up pretty bad. The policeman was happy that I stayed and waited, and as I described what happened, he actually complimented me for not doing MORE damage! So he simply allowed the information exchange and let me off without a ticket. But I still mentally kick my own rump roast for doing something so stupid and for making my already-horrible day even worse. Plus spending $300 for a new bumper and getting it painted. Yet it was a valuable lesson for me. I have more caution in the rain now, and I simply have a better understanding of the dynamics of handling an automobile. I am a better driver for it.

Not necessarily dude. I can get a decent amount of torque steer in my XT in FWD... all you need is an open diff to try and spin the inside wheel faster than the other... The STi shouldn't do it too much, it has LSD's all the way around I think. But with 300 hp and 300 torque, I guess even an LSD can only do so much

My maiden voyage was absolutely unbelieveable. There were 4 people in the car, and even in 2nd gear at 20mph, he punched it and still squealed a front tire!! My neck hurt the next morning.... But what's cooler, I could take a Baja Turbo, put an STi intercooler and ECU in it and have almost a 300hp Baja!!!

Reading the harrowing tales I've read on this board, I would look into the engines in both cars. If the 97 is a DOHC EJ25 'Phase I', which I'm pretty sure it is, run away. Those are the infamous head-gasket blowers. If the 99 is a SOHC EJ25 'Phase II', again which I'm pretty sure it is, then you're much better off with this one than the 97. Other than that, everything should be alright... Trust me, you will find the value of owning a Subaru for college. My personal opinion is that there's no better car for a college student.

Cool! That is a rare situation that because of a "pending" sale, you got the work done on the house! You should feel very lucky right now

Do not worry about anything internal. If you had a bad bearing, it would knock continuously, the frequency increasing with engine speed. The knocking would not go away... Get this. I was fearing the same thing, I had a knocking noise that would occur after giving it gas then letting off. Guess what it was?? Bad water pump. The bearing came loose and the pulley was wobbling... It sounded much more serious than it was...:-p

Yay! Entry sent... Finding the meaning of the name is much easier that you think...

To remove the center console, remove the trim piece that surrounds the shifter, then you will see two screws that screw to the other trim piece that goes ahead of the shifter. There are two trim pieces that are overlapped by the shifter trim, if that helps... There are two screws in the bin as you described. Now the tough part: I don't know if you have the automatic seatbelts, if you don't then this part you don't hafta worry about. If you do, you will hafta pull the loose console up slightly and maneuver the detached shoulder belts out of the console. The two screws in the console mount to the pretensioners for the auto belts, so they run through that piece. I have found it helpful to move the seat all the way forward to have more access down there... Then the center console is removed...

As fast as the car can go, I guess. You're talking pushbutton? I have had my XT in 4WD up in the 60-70 range without problems...

Cars make odors. My Legacy always seems to have a yet-unidentified odor after a spirited drive. Nothing has ever happened though, and I'm not going to worry about it...

You could use a Chilton's or Haynes your first time, and then you probably won't need a manual again, after seeing how easy it is... I can't think of any special tools you'll need, besides wrenches and sockets. Be careful removing some of those bolts, however. I still have a scar on my right hand index finger where I was struggling to loosen the banjo bolt on the left rear hose, and it came loose suddenly, and my knuckle went flying across the control arm bolt!

I always was intimidated by brakes, since I was scared of working on something that important But I recently did a brake job on my Legacy and I did it quite nicely. I changed all 8 pads and turned all 4 rotors for the cost of someone doing just the fronts, and I got the best pads I could get at Autozone. Those are Raybestos pads, and while they do brake the car very well, I have noticed some fade after about 30 min of slightly "spirited" driving ... If you don't know when the brake fluid was last changed, it's worth it to change it. I just took the hoses off the calipers and let the system gravity drain. Then I put Valvoline synthetic brake fluid in, and a simple bleeding with an assistant's help, and I was done! Really, give it a shot yourself. It's not difficult.

Get a load of this! I went to the International Auto Show they have every year here in Orlando at the Orange County Convention Center... While all the little ricer boys were googling over the STi, I was freaking out that I was looking at and sitting in a Baja Turbo 5-speed!!! I thought they were coming auto only!! I might have some more interest in one now!

No one here can undercut the Outback. Yes it is just a rebadged Legacy, but the Outback, ladies and gentlemen, is why we still are discussing new Subarus today. The Outback was such a success that it saved Subaru of America. The Legacy, while a fantastic car, did not appeal to a large enough demographic to rectify its development expenses until the Outback came out... I have driven a used 99 Forester on a dealer lot, and I must say it was quite a fun little car to drive. I would definitely consider getting an X in a 5spd...

The 5-lug Subies you should replace the castle nut, because you stake it into the notch on the axle to lock it (in other words, bend the edge into the notch). The 4-lug Subies use a cotter pin, so the nut is fine after you remove it...

The most famous XT6 site is http://xt6.net/forum. Even though I only have a 4-cyl XT, I am very active over there and everyone is very knowledgeable and helpful... I've heard about the PS brushes myself, seem to be the wear-out part of the Cybrid system, but it would be advised that you get some of the "liquid gold" Subaru PS fluid for it. I hear there is very little left, and that it's not being produced anymore. Might wanna get a few liters at your local dealer to have on hand.

Legacy has 126,500 miles, XT has 103,100 miles... For my trannies, I use Castrol 80W90 dino, both the Legacy and XT... Legacy shifts better with this than anything else I've used, XT about the same... For the rear diffs, I can accept synth, and use Redline 75W90 (no NS) in both the Legacy and XT... Works fine, I guess I wonder sometimes though if maybe you people are too rough with your cars. I'm not trying to dictate how you MUST drive your car, but I simply have accepted the fact that you can't slam Subaru gearboxes around, and I have fabricated my driving style around that. I am very patient with my synchros and I never grind them, at least with dino.

I left mine alone too... You cannot replace the bearings all by yourself. You would have to remove the hub entirely from the car (off the strut, off the control arm, remove all brake components, etc.) and then take it to a machine shop to have the bearing pressed out of the hub...

Ian, before you do that, try two other things... 1) Check the window regulator. The adjustments made to that are what seat the window in the weatherstripping properly. My XT made absolutely no wind noise until I had to swap the regulator for a new one. I still haven't adjusted it right and there is now a bit of wind noise as a result. 2) My Legacy (like yours) had a new fender put on the front left from an accident a few years ago. For some strange reason, I didn't notice until only about a month ago, that the fender was installed incorrectly and there is a spot near the windshield where the hood and fender are not flush. I believe that might be what's creating the Legacy's wind noise...

Psst... http://www.cvaxles.com ...

Search some of my posts, and you will find that I am a die-hard dino oil fan. I have had nothing but bad experiences with synth gear oil in my Legacy... However, you up in the colder regions of the country have nothing but praise for it... So here is my theory on dino vs. synth: Synth is okay in colder climates, where the thickness of cold oil can make up for the slipperiness of the synth stuff. But here in hot weather, the oil gets thinner and the same slipperiness does not allow proper gear synchronization....

Thanks for the references, guys. I'll ask around those two places and see what I can turn up. Jay, I might still buy the valve from you, never know. But don't hold it for me, lemme do some shopping first Thanks again guys. Much appreciated.

Where the bracket that holds the cable and spring attaches, just beneath that you can see the little cap... I took that off, and filled underneath it with RTV sealant, and then put the cap back on and sealed around it too. From what I could tell, that's where it was leaking. But now fluid continues to drip from it, and although my sealant is not wet with fluid, it looks like it's coming from that area... Oh forget it, the valve is trash :madder: I got one from a guy over on the XT boards, but his is even worse than mine unfortunately, at least I only paid shipping :-) Jay, yours looks to be in better condition than either of the ones I have. Have you driven the car? Brakes are good? I might be interested if the price is right...