DerFahrer

I'll bet it's axles... A balljoint or other such suspension component clunks once when a sharp force is applied to it, like hitting the gas, or slamming on the brakes, or hitting a bump... If it was repetitive, your whole suspension would be shaking and your car would do WAY more than just "clunk"

I definitely agree about the crazy part!! Allow me to say this however: If I drove across something like that with one of my Scoobs, I would be so proud I'd probably NEVER get rid of it!

Yeah, I've done the "hit the starter with long metal object" with a bunch of cars... Doesn't always work, depends on starter condition... However, I did it on an `84 300ZX, didn't work, and I couldn't even clutch start it! And I can clutch start pretty much anything! The car sat for days... :brolleye:

I have to disagree with you. I drove a BMW 525i with the auto-stick, and I was so very disappointed. The system overrode your decision making if it thought the revs got too high (like 4000) and shift anyway, and even when it did let you shift, it took no less that 3 seconds to react to your upshift command. I would rather drive a plain auto than fool around with a fake stick What really gets my goat is the offering of a sports car with an automatic. A family sedan, okay yeah I guess (I still love the idea of a stick sedan though), a wagon, okay (same as sedan though :-) ). But not a sports car. I am thoroughly enraged at the new offering of a Porsche 911 Turbo auto. It burns me up. Not only the fact that you have completely ruined the car, but you can now put 415 HP (which is 415 Porsche HP, something that needs an experienced driver) into the hands of someone who doesn't even have to know how to drive a manual transmission... I really hope the day of the true sports car doesn't come to an end. I will honestly be very, very sad when this happens :boohoo:

I found that bolt today before seeing this even! :-) Upon getting the A/C tensioner loose, I found the bolt and got it out. Compressor is moved out of the way, and I proceeded to pull the water pump pipe out and make a big mess So thanks for the help! Much appreciated!

Oh geez, this argument again :brolleye: Better gas mileage... More reliable... Two braking systems (engine braking)... Manuals are MUCH lighter, 100 lbs or more... No fear of dead batteries (pop starting)... Impress the ladies And the #1 reason: IT'S MORE FUN!!! I have NEVER had true honest fun driving an auto. Sure, they can be fast... but it's not the same... I don't know what all this rush-hour traffic complaining is about. Central Florida probably has some of the worst traffic in the Southeast, and not only have I sat in traffic for an hour with my MT without any problems, I know enough to go find a much more fun backroad to take Put it this way: I will probably own an auto at sometime in my life, but I will never be without an MT. When I am required to drive an AT as my daily, I'll stop driving... Honestly. I take driving far too seriously to be bored to death with an auto every single day...

This is a factory A/C unit, as it has the compressor speed sensor (which I've never seen by the way :eh: ), and it's "inboard"... I removed the intake manifold bolt, I removed the one underneath the alternator, I removed the one in between the PS pump and water pump, yeah that's going to be fun to put back in , but this 2-inch long one... isn't that one of the bolts that holds the A/C belt tensioner on there? That's pretty loose right now, but the compressor is not... I might give it a try after work tonight... Thanks a bunch for your help guys...

Caleb, I'm not sure what you mean 'inboard' or 'outboard'... I'm still officially an 80's Subaru n00b, I'm afraid :brolleye:

Glad to see you all are taking care of your cars :brolleye:

Yeah I removed the alternator, I agree that I don't think this could be done with the alternator in place... I have an XT which has its spare tire in the trunk like a normal car , so that wouldn't work for me... I unbolted every bolt I could find that held the bracket to the block, as I understand what you're saying, better to remove the whole thing with the bracket. But it still won't budge... The beauty is I don't plan on the car running right away, so I'm willing to take more stuff off and take some more time... Thanks for the help so far, though Emm...

Well, not removal so much as moving it to the side. Apparently my water pump O-ring is leaking since there is coolant dripping in that area from the timing covers, and I can't get to the water pump without moving the A/C compressor. Oh, if only the 80's Scoobs were as easy as first-gen Legacies :brolleye: So anyway, I took the belt off, and removed 5 bolts so far, including the one on the intake manifold, the two underneath the alternator, one peeking out behind the fan, and another one symmterical from the alternator one. Yet it still won't budge. Which one am I missing? This kinda bites, coz even if there is one more, I don't think I could reach it :madder:

Those wheels were on Imprezas for a while, I've seen all kinds of Imprezas with those wheels... Allow me to say that I have NEVER found a seat in any car that has been comfortable for 3 hours. Everything from a Mitsu Diamante to a Toyota Sienna to a Honda Accord, to both my Subarus, my rump roast is always really sore when I get out...

Zeno is right. The car is unfortunately worth about $500 (it does have 275k miles). If a potential buyer got upset that a $500 car doesn't have a perfect record, they're not very bright... :brolleye:

Mike, that's the salvaged one right? Looks nice!

Although I don't want this to become another pissing contest of synth vs. dino in man tran's, as I stand behind dino 100%... allow me to say that the dino oil I use and trust to engage synchros correctly has only been working better as the temperature has dropped here in FL... I can't be sure what happens in 35 below though, maybe synthetic is thick enough at that temp to allow proper synchronization. Here in FL at 90 degrees in the summer, synth it out...

The Legacy was the first Subaru with AWD. It was badged 4WD because the term AWD wasn't really widely accepted yet... No USDM Subaru Legacy or any later model, ever came with 4WD... Yes I believe the 4WD ended with the 80's generation in 1994...

Why do you want to clean your throttle body? I have never done it, and someone who has done it before has really screwed things up by removing some of the sealant to the intake manifold...

You could give Magnecor a shot http://www.magnecor.com... Just ask what wires they have for a 4 cylinder Subaru with a distributor... Just be warned: they don't like to attach to their connectors very much. Be SURE they're all the way on before you start driving the car...

They always lower a little when you turn the car off, to lower the step-in height... My XT does the same thing... How you can tell if your air suspension is leaking is if you start the car up and the compressor runs constantly, putting air into a strut that's always leaking it out... Or of course, if the car is slammed to the ground because you no longer have any seals

Don't do this "split-boot" hogwash. That is the DUMBEST idea. The split boot is still going to leak... I had one on my XT and guess what??? That axle was crap... Replacing boots is also a waste of time. You don't know when the boot was cut, you don't know how much grease has leaked out, or how much foriegn matter has gotten in, so therefore the joint may be damaged but not making noise yet. Replace the axle with a rebuilt one from http://www.cvaxles.com. They make the best axles in the world for Subarus, and the axles are $55 apiece with lifetime warranty. And replacement is not that hard, the only difficult thing is getting the axle stub in and out of the wheel bearings... The price of half-assing axles is more than replacing them right. Don't do it unless you want the joint to come apart and leave you stranded somewhere...

I wouldn't get a used one as it might do the same thing. Apparently it was a substandard part from the factory... I drove my car with that stupid code (and CEL) for over a year without any problems, so it's no emergency... The part new costs about $80 from the dealer, and replacing it is not exactly a walk in the park...

yes I got it, thanks a bunch!!!

Yep all 90-94 Legacies were 2.2 ... TC, yours might be a tad different from mine. 90-94 Legacies has a difference in IAC valves depending if the car was AT or MT. The AT's had a rotary type valve, while the MT's was a shutter type I believe... All 2.2's past the 90-94 Legacies, regardless of tranny, got the rotary, I have the shutter-type... Anyway, there are four bolts that hold the valve to the intake manifold, sorry forgot to mention that. I believe the two up top are longer than the two on the bottom, so watch your bolt lengths when you put it back on... You don't have to remove the intake manifold, nor do you want to. That's a FAAAR more complicated process than you think it is!!! I had difficulty doing it, but yes I used needlenose pliers to get the coolant hoses loose enough to come off... I would say try to move the clamp back off of the valve nipple, but the hose is so short, it might just make things even harder... Keep shooting if you got any more questions... I know more about this than I really want to :brolleye:

Okay I'm half-wrong. I forgot to read the "turbo" part for some reason... :brolleye: Yes an EJ22T is a closed-deck block, and the EJ25 is open-deck... However, that does not mean you cannot interchange their heads. In fact a guy has made a complete monster out of a stock EJ22T block by bolting DOHC EJ25 heads to it. That lowered his CR to about 7.5:1, allowing him to up the boost to about 22-25 lbs, and then the DOHC setup allowed him to reach 8000 rpm... And on the Legacy forums, a guy is sorting out the EJ20-heads-on-EJ22T issue as we speak...

The EJ25 is basically an EJ22 bored and stroked... Although I've never heard of what you speak of, it wouldn't surprise me... Almost any Subaru motor can be swapped into almost any other Subaru without extensive modifications...