DerFahrer

Frag, sorry I didn't respond in the other thread. It's possible that spraying a better cleaner in a gunked-up IAC might free it up. But I did this in the wintertime, and with the valve stuck closed, the car would barely start. So I bit the bullet and bought a new one. Had circumstances allowed, I might have taken a little more time to fiddle with it and possibly fix it, instead of blowing a whole paycheck on a new one:brolleye:... TC, spraying anything in the big hose won't do any good unless the engine is running and idling. And pulling the hose off creates a large vacuum leak, which will not allow the engine to idle correctly, so you would have to plug that hose, while spraying stuff in the valve. But again, if you do this, I would suggest using a small amount of brake cleaner, not enough for your engine to choke on. The reason is that brake cleaner evaporates and leaves behind no residue... I replaced mine myself, and while it's not a all-day job, it's not fun. You will have to remove anything PCV-related in the area to get to everything, disconnect the wire and unbolt in from the intake manifold, and then for the fun part: getting the coolant hoses off of it. The valve needs the engine's operating temperature to function correctly, so it has to have coolant going through it. These hoses are very small and hard to reach. Getting the old valve off the hoses isn't all that bad, just twist and pull. But putting the new ones on takes a little more patience...

My Legacy has been Carfaxed, but not my XT... JF1AX7321JD307750 gblock@bellsouth.net Thanks a bazillion!

Ahh, I am here. I'm the one that recommended brake cleaner... However, what exactly leads you to believe that it needs cleaning? If your IAC valve is stuck closed, it will not idle. It will only stall. If it's stuck open, you're going to basically haul rump roast, once you even nudge the throttle... My personal opinion is that the IAC valve as well as the throttle body are best just left alone. You can easily make things worse by trying to make them better... Anyway, I used some crappy carb cleaner in mine and caused it to seize closed, so $360 later, I put a new OEM one in... Yes it hurt. I definitely learned my lesson...

DEFINITELY look into stickers, they have the best HP increase pricewise of any mod on the market!! Seriously though, I wonder what a small turbo on low boost would accomplish... And that's not expensive, junkyard turbos are diamonds in the rough And while we're on the subject of Justy Turbos, is there really such thing as a Justy Turbo from the factory? I've heard rumors about them, but nothing more...

I'm going to beat a dead horse here because I'm not fully up to date on it, but should she worry about getting a shudder-prone OEM clutch? Believe it or not, I think a problematic OEM clutch was put on my Legacy, since it will shudder very badly if engaged improperly...

I didn't know the convertible was a hybrid I heard that it had a 400-hp TT H6! Except for the headlights, I actually like it... Maybe Subaru's 3rd sports car attempt will be a charm...

I agree with frag in that I've never seen rubber wear away metal that much. But friction is a vicious force whose powers should not be underestimated... The first thing I thought when the crank being worn was mentioned was that the crank pulley was not tight enough and wobbled the key away...

I am quite proud of your son for having more decision-making skills than your average 16-year-old driver. The dirtpile was a very good idea, that dang pipe is what ruined the whole thing:banghead: ! I would say have an alignment, and have a good one. If the car isn't exactly straight somewhere, find a way to fix it. Unfortunately, the car will never drive exactly the same again :brolleye: And yes, the first-gen Legacies are 10 times more fun than they appear to be

Anyone?

I would be interested in a Scooby diesel. Think about it: The boxer engine already has more suable torque than inline engines (don't believe me? get a brand-new camry 4cyl :brolleye: )and then making it a diesel??? That would put SUPER torque down!! The Legacy will probably come here with a EJ25T in between the Forester/Baja Turbo and the STi, probly somewhere around 250 hp... The B4 designation is still sketchy though...

Well, I put the XT up on jackstands today and had a good look underneath. It appears that the Hill-Holder is the culprit leaking the brake fluid, and the reason why I almost plowed through a stop sign into traffic last week ... My Legacy's Hill-Holder has not needed anything in the whole time I've had it, so I haven't played with it much. Removal is simply taking all the brake lines off, removing the cable that attaches to the clutch fork, and unbolting it, right? Anyone who has toyed with it have any advice?

This auction ended without any bids, but he cut me a deal and gave me the rims for the opening bid As soon as I get two center caps, they're going on the Legacy and I'll put pics up

After I got my Legacy, my great-uncle in GA got a 93 Loyale...

Ian is half-right. NGK V-power coppers are the final word in Subarus. There is no better plug, period. It outperforms any other plug you can possible use. The only downside is they don't last 15 minutes:brolleye: ... Iridiums will not quite offer the performance of the V-powers, but they will last much longer...

What year EJ22? The first ones in the Legacies had 130 hp, and the Phase II EJ22's had 142 hp... The US never got a EJ22 DOHC, only the very rare Impreza 22B in Japan and Europe got an EJ22T DOHC... If you want boost, the best thing to do is simply swap in an EJ22T, it's already got the turbo, and the internals of the engine are more durable than an N/A EJ22...

This is true. Up there in the NorthWest, Subarus really hold value... Down here in FL, where no one cares :boohoo: that GL would be worth no more than $500 guaranteed...

Easy there John. The MT Legacy EJ22's used a silver looking MAF sensor, while the AT ones used a black looking sensor... The difference is clear when you compare the two... I believe all turbo Legacies use the black sensor also...

Hah! You talk about it like it's something new I have chased that problem for years in my Legacy, and the XT is pulling a similar stunt....

I appreciated my Legacy sooo much after I did the XT's axles. I put a block of wood against the hub and then just went at it, pounding the hell out of it, to get the axle in. The Legacy has the wonderful 5-lug hub, where the axle slides right in... no hammering necessary

I don't think I will EVER get tired of driving a MT everyday, but anyway... I have heard numerous reports that the EJ20T and 4EAT are so wrong for each other, nothing but gear-hunting and long periods of off-boost situations... Otherwise, yes I'm sure it could benefit from a tranny cooler...

I'd be up to get one and submit pics

Being a first-gen Legacy owner, I'm a little partial ... But my vote is for the EJ22T. I would say this is Subaru's most durable street engine yet. More than one person consistently runs 20 lbs boost on a stock engine with over 180,000 miles on it. In fact some have swapped EJ25 DOHC heads onto an EJ22T block, therefore decreasing their CR and enabling higher revs. One guy who has done this runs 30 lbs on his EJ22T everyday, and has for 30,000 miles. Of course, this is with proper tuning... so keep that in mind...

What a scare this morning! I get in my XT, pull out of my driveway, approach a stop sign, hit the brakes, and the pedal goes to the floor:eek: I manage to stop it with what brakes I had left, and return to my driveway. There was a big puddle of brake fluid where the car sat overnight, and my reservoir was half-empty... I wasn't dare going to drive it so I missed college today... But oh how lucky I was that the parts I needed to finish up the Legacy came in today! I borrowed my granpa's truck and ran to Discount to get them, and I then finished up the Legacy. Reason #1 to have two cars!

First, how is your clutch out of adjustment? Is it catching right when you take the pedal off the floor, or is it catching almost when the pedal is all the way up? If it's the first situation, then you need to loosen the cable, if it's the latter situation, you need to tighten it. Look on the bellhousing of the tranny (find the starter and go a little bit more toward the passenger) you will see the cable there attached to the clutch fork. There will be two nuts on it. Loosen the first nut (you might need two wrenches to turn the two nuts opposite directions to break them loose), then either tighten or loosen the second nut based on your observations from the above parameters. A common adjustment point I like to follow is that the clutch starts to disengage (you can feel this easier with your hand than your foot) right when the clutch pedal is even with the brake pedal... Once you have found the correct measurement, tighten the first nut back down, and you're done... I wouldn't have a walrus over a few metal shavings in your tranny, ever accidentally try to engage Reverse when you're still moving? Of course, everyone has. That will cause a very small amount of metal shavings to enter your gear oil... As for the rear end gear reduction, look on your rear diff. If it's covered in gunk (a frequent problem :brolleye: ), wipe it off and there should be a plate somewhere under all that crap that has your final drive ratio on it...

I haven't done it on a Subie, but I did change my friend's Jeep O2 sensor. It's cake there, the only thing you need that's fancy is an O2 sensor removal tool, which is basically a 5/8 (I think ) socket with a third of it cut out, allowing the pigtail to stay straight and not get crimped. The rest is a simple unbolt-and-unplug, bolt-in-and-plug-in procedure...