DerFahrer

Monk, warning taken. What I will probably do is before the run, I will deflate all 4 completely, then start it up and let the compressor fill em up for maybe 10 seconds or something like that. I wasn't planning on driving it at 0 psi anyway, because that would only make sense that it would be lowrider-bumpy and for sure cause damage...

I assume you have enough oil in the engine, so you probably have sludged up lifters. Common Subaru problem. However, I can't vouch for its ease of serviceability since I have never done it

Take the little plate off the bottom of the tranny that guards the flex plate and TC, and start taking the bolts out that hold the flex plate to the TC... keep turning it so you can reach them all. Then proceed to take the tranny out and the TC will come out with it...

Huh? Where is the cap that the hose attaches to? The fronts have a cap on top of the strut, just loosen it a little and let the air out... I'm looking for this cap on the rears, I would assume it's on the top as well, but I'm not sure... Trogdor, I probably won't let ALL the air out, just enough to really lower the stance. Furthermore, it will be on a mostly flat parking lot, few bumps. I'm going to drive it down there with air in them, and when I'm done autoX'ing, I'm going to put the fuse back in and let em fill up. This procedure is simply for the track...

I am going to the Tampa Subaru Challenge tomorrow. It's an autocross event for Subarus, and only Subarus, of all forms and shapes. I planned on taking my Legacy and XT down there with a friend, but then my Legacy decided to get an attitude with me and start screwing up her wheelstuds (one stripped, one broken)... Anyway, I was washing my XT today to get ready to go down there and I looked at how high up the air suspension was sitting... Then I had a revelation! If I let the air out of all 4 struts and then pull the height control fuse, I could literally slam the car and corner like a go-kart!!! The front struts are easy, but the rears look to be more challengine to get to. What is the quickest way (remove some trim somewhere, I guess) to get to the valve on the top of the rear struts? Sorry for the novel...

First off do you have a sedan or wagon? The wagon rear quarters should work from 90-94.... Now as for front fenders and sedan rear quarters, you have to watch the changes midway through the generation. If it's a 90-91, then you have to use 90 or 91 fenders and sedan rear quarters, as the parking lights and taillights are different. The same applies to 92-94. The turbo fenders should work within those parameters, however (I'm not sure about this) the turbo radiator might be bigger, so I would double-check on the raidator support...

Hey Michael, welcome to the new board. We had the big synchro discussion on ezBoard You cannot manually adjust timing on ANY car with ECU-controlled timing, unless you get a piggyback chip or reprogram your ECU. However, I don't think it's a timing issue. You probably have the famed Subaru carbon build-up. Pull your spark plugs and see if they're all covered in black soot. Or just run a higher octane. Neither of my Subies like 87... Good luck, and welcome back to the USMB!:bday:

Cake. I have put everything back together on my Legacy, I just haven't found anyone to pull a vacuum on the system yet Relieve pressure the safe way by pressing the fittings on the hoses in just like a tire valve. It will take a while, but it's the safest way. Take the compressor out, and then drain all the old oil out, get as much as possible out. Since your system is open, you need to replace your drier. So when you're at the auto parts store, get some R134 refrigerant, R134 fittings, "esther" oil (yes you want this, because it is compatible with the remaining oil left in your compressor, you CAN'T get every last drop out), and a drier. Find out the capacities for how much oil and refrigerant you put in for your car, I don't know them for 80's Scoobs. Fill them up appropriately, put everything back together, find someone to pull a vacuum on the system so you can charge it, and walaa! You have R134 a/c...

Forgot to post the link for my favorite CV axle shop at http://www.cvaxles.com. They have sold me front sets of axles for both my Legacy and XT for the very reasonable price of $55 apiece, with a lifetime warranty. I also like their fast shipping, but that's coz they're in Ocala, FL and I'm in Orlando I did have one of my axles start leaking grease from the outer boot once, but I called them, they sent me a replacement the next day without question, and I have had not one problem with the XT's axles... The Midas muffler was simply the canister and installation. They had to do some fabwork to fit my old axle-back pipe to the new muffler, and as a result, it doesn't sit exactly right. It's even getting old already, and I think I will probably have a more quality (but OEM-spec) muffler installed with a new axle-back...

Right. GM has no control over Subaru engineering at all, they just borrow some of its ideas, for instance, McBrat's mention of the upcoming Saab 9-2 which is basically a rebadged WRX wagon. Also the Chevy Borrego concept used a JDM WRX motor and AWD. The emblem and Subaru name were developed around one event. FHI was actually the merger of five different mergers. The word "Subaru" means unite and it is also a constellation the Greeks called Pleiades. Therefore the company chose to "subaru" or unite, and used the astrological symbol of unification, the Pleiades constellation. I gathered this from Mitchell's site who had a 91 JDM wagon while he was stationed in Okinawa...

My Legacy has the undercoating, my XT doesn't. Both were originally sold in the NE, the Legacy is completely rust-free underneath, and the XT's is very minimal. No body rust on either.

Nice catch. Assuming the engine has had even half-good maintenance, it should last another 100k. The CV axles on any 5-lug Subaru are a snap, as any 80's Subie owner will tell you. The axle simply slides into the hub smooth as glass; it does not have to be pressed in like the 80's Scoobs. The only thing tricky to n00b's is the spring pin on the inner joint. For that, you will need a punch and good hammer. And contrary to popular opinion, you can hammer the old one out either way you like, or hammer the new pin (you should replace it) in either way you like. It doesn't matter which way you put the axle on; I've done it both ways... Go to Legacy777's site for pulling CEL codes, go to Notes and Tips, Engine Related. The 1st-gen Legacies are blessed with the home-mechanic-friendly OBD1 diagnostic system. As for the muffler, I guess you could patch it, but I would just recommend going to Midas and get a new one for $100. Exhaust rust is and has always been the older Subarus' weakness. I'm not a behind-the-dash expert, so someone else can point you in the right direction for that :-\ Congrats on the find!

Welcome to the club, man. It's a Subaru thing. I have been chasing it in my Legacy for years! I have replaced: the knock sensor, the motor mounts, the alternator, the coilpack, etc. It has been hashed over time and time again on the BC-BF Legacy BBS, and those parts have solved the problem for some people, but not me. My engine is in a PERFECT state of tune even with 124k miles, but I can't rid myself of the hesitation. By the feel of it, I'm almost sure it's timing related to the knock sensor, but I think it's the ECU's end that's at fault, perhaps the stock ECU reads the sensor wrong or something... And... yes. My XT does the same freeking thing!! Now that is a bit different, since my XT has a disty. The XT will ping on 89 octane, and only wants 91 octane. The disty is as far retarded as possible, leading me to believe it's a tooth off on the cam. That will be attended too as soon as my friend will lend me his timing light:-\

My Legacy as well as my XT both turn off their lights with the ignition as well as have the parking light switch. More than once in the Legacy I have "left my lights on" and didn't have to worry about it

1) Has your mileage changed? If so, how much? 2) Feel the bumper around the tailpipe for soot from black smoke, indicating running rich... These signs might suggest that your O2 sensor really is bad...

See who's standing next to me??? Haha j/k, she had a BF at the time and is now married... :-\ I dunno, I guess I was just happy to actually meet other Subie people in Florida...:brolleye:

No thanks!!! The Suzuki thing said it all right there... Somewhere, find the British magazine "Car." They have tested every model for sale in the UK, including the previous-gen Subaru Justy, which was (to them) basically our Suzuki Swift or Geo Metro. If I can remember correctly what the magazine said "The Chevrolet Camaro is dead. The Ford Explorer is dead. (This is in UK, mind you). So the Justy finally steps up to the title it has always deserved: that of being the very worst car for sale in England today..." Give us back the original, FHI!!!:madder:

Can I ask a stupid question: did you check your oil???:-\

Now I know the Phase I DOHC engines were interference with respect to valves vs. valves (get the cams on one head off-timing to each other and the valves will slap each other), what about with respect to valves vs. pistons, if timing belt breaks, pistons will slap valves... for either Phase I or Phase II?

My XT's CEL will light up if you try to pull away from a stop below 1000rpm, then go away once it goes above 2000rpm and not come back on, I'll eventually pull the code and probably find a MAF sensor code:banghead:

riiiiiiiiiiiight:eh: :eh:

I'm the geek with glasses all the way on the right :brolleye: That was a bunch of RS people on a rainy Sunday in Orlando... Yes that's a Subaru hat I'm wearing:banana:

There are no springs in an air suspension system. The air is the spring. Ask around for someone who has a set of springs laying around, I'm sure you can find a set here or at a boneyard... Also, try to take the air compressor and tank out intact, those will fetch some more $$$...

I'm happy with my OEM ones, but Magnecors are good too... Those wires main flaw is that they are difficult to get on the contacts properly, many people (including myself) have had problems with arcing from gaps between contacts...

It's nothing to lose sleep over, my Legacy had a CEL on for over a YEAR carrying that code. (That was when I was working min. wage and could barely afford gas:banghead: ) It apparently was a very troublesome part, as it's been hashed over here before. The part is a dealer-only valve that costs about $80 and I didn't do it myself, that was before I had any mechanical aptitude... So I can't vouch for its difficulty of replacement, but it looks hard