suburpy

Hey Mate I dunno just throwing this in but i had weird vibrations at some speeds and especially under brakes. Did bearings first, no change, Replaced my bushes with the polyurethane bushes, no more wobbles and it rides fine, no strange tire wear and im not chewing bottom ball joints every 10,000 KMs. Just a thought - and yes those super pro bushes are excellent and cheap!

Get the new KYB struts, got em very happy better ride, not too expensive (about $130 aussie dollars each). About 4 hours to replace both sides with no air tools. Might be worth doing bottom ball joints at same time? Just my experience

Been out today and thinking about this thread - seems in not the only one who enjoyed lego when they was young. Soobs are simple - little things like the timing marks being on the flywheel, how cool is that. How to adjust the valves and set timing is in the factory manual with the car oh and the spare wheel in the engine compartment - genius and a great talking point to non soob heads They are so well designed, cheap and reliable. The ute (brats/brumbys) hava cult following in rural Australiaso parts are easy and cheap to get I have 13 inch rims with top quality tyres that cost $90 each. How much is Jeep Tyres? Cant always do what a Jeep does, don't need to! but love to be able to go in the sand and Mud! This is my 5th soob now, I really would try anything mechanically on them. I dont because quite honestly i prefer someone else to get grubby sometimes, but geez it's good to be able to take my car somewhere and tell them what i want done! Not ask them 'whats wrong with it", i don't get ripped off and I often get a discount special rates cause the mechanics love my car!

Hey mate you can rebuild your Hitachi Carb and it's not that hard, just make sure all the vacuum things work ok and that theres no play in the throttle shafts. I have rebuilt afew Hitachi carbs, not as easy as a weber to rebuild but no biggie. The Model number is stamped not engraved on the front of the fuel bowl from memory (looking from front of car) usually by the time u need to rebuild it's covered in gunk. I suggest you clean the outside of the carb first, then you should be able to find it. Good luck. Yeah it is what you say silk screened usually starts with a a DCM or DCX.

Love it man Subaru's rock. You can come here a noob on soobs or cars for that matter and ask the lamest questions but you get help! Soobs are so easy to work on. I have no mechanical aptitude at all yet I fix my soobs i done clutches, carbies, axels, distributor rebuillds etc. Books like How to keep yourt soob alive etc are testament to how much people love these cars, no other car I know has this sort of help. Also they are reliable and if not you can predict what's going to go wrong. They really are like a little lego car and if you ever enjoyed playing with Lego as a child you'll enjoy your soob

Hey Mate Dont feel bad cause you think you stupid, been a few others done stupider things, shorting across the starter near an open fuel line springs to mind - similar result salvaged the lift kit!

Wow this is so wierd! I kinda feel bad even reding about this he makes me so uncomfortable! Like he really is sick. And to think someone bought that pump:eek:

pressure for weber no greater than 3.5 psi I think 2.o litre cortinas often had the double pump webers, they have some hidouesly wierd jetting I think 165 165 mains from mem. GD has written out many times the basic jet set to start with for a soob. Guy on Ebay aus has store called Gem Parts Australia sells many webers and has the adaptor plates as well as much more

Yes it is a bushing you can replace or at least an auto electrics place can. You can either take the dizzy whole and get them to clean it, check mechanical advance and check out vacuum advance, rebush and bench test. (prob cost 80 - 100 dollars). Or pull it apart yourself and clean up and unseize mech advance, check vacumm advance (hose, suck and see if it holds vacuum) yourself, clean up and take shaft into auto electrics for rebushing (bushes cost $3 retail) probably about $20 for them to do. I have done this a couple of times now, go to a number of places till you find one who will do it cheap (ie some told me the BS line that they dont rebush incase something else breaks later, what bollocks, check it yourself, rebushed it will last for ages, till it needs rebushing again)

Hey yeah Check thew mechanical advance, remove the stator and then ignition unit and clean it up, get it moving freely again. You can check the vacuum advance (quickly), just take if of the distributor and attach a hose, push down on the spring put your finger over the hos and see if it holds vacuum. If not get one from a JY or fix it like stated previously (although never done this myself)

Dont know mate but I did see somewhere on the web a site for calculating the CFM requirements of your engine, some sort of compueter program thing, was linked to a weber page:cool:

Hey Mate A carb rebuild is really quite easy and $500 sound expensive to me. A rebuild kit $50, cleaner $50 - thats all. I have done about ten carby rebuilds now, even done them for friends. My first one was a disaster could never get it to idle. Only know do i know that (1) there may have been a vacuum leak but more likely (2) The throttle shaft (the ones that have the venturi butterflys) - not the chokle plates was loose (grab the throttle shaft and see if you can wobble it), this changes the mix of air and fuel and leads it to vary the idle, so one minute it was nice at 800 then the next time i stopped it might be 1000. The Hitachi carbs are much harder to rebuild in my opinion. A couple of points on Hitachis Watch for little ball bearings that will come out from near the accelerator pump Make sure the needle and seat arnt sticking. (i had one that with the clip on it would not open), generally the rebuild ones in the kit should be OK though. If the shaft is wobbly take it to a carby shop and get it re-bushed. They will drill out the old shaft hole and insert a piece of brass tubing. It will be all tight again. Do a quick check of any vacuum components (ie suck on it, put your finger on the end and ensure it holds a vacuum) The Hitachis are a 3 piece body of top cover, main body and throtle body, when assembling the main body and throttle body it is usually and aluminium (main body) to iron (throttle body). it pays to add a small amount of loctitie to the nuts holding them together as this area has a tendency to leak. The jets are numbered as well on some models, so record which one came from which hole. A weber is a much better option if your old factory carb is worn out, They are easier to rebuild (god they are sooo simple), better built and just damn good looking (oh an performance and economy gains if tuned correctly) They consist of only two pieces the main body and top cover - therfore no air leaks They have many more interchangeble jets and emulsion tubes to tune the carby to your engine They can be rubushed (like the Hitachis) but Overseas Distributors (somewhere in Canada) has a re-bearing kit for 32/36 webers, which means no need to drill to get rid of shaft wobble. Really with a weber no matter how old it is if the shafts are tight it will be good. Choices of auto or manual chokes Mechanical advance means no need to check all the vacuum components of the carby But can be hard to tune (reportedly) Hope this helps, it's only my experience and opinion, Many here particulary GD has given advice on weber rebuilds.

Hey When it gets too hot here (like 40 + celsius) i bring the work inside! My favourite is to get carbys and rebuild them (for no reason other than idle hands - well you know the rest). And really I guess an older car can do with a carby rebuild - or recently I got a weber to rebuild ready for a swap - wow these things are great, so sexy and well made and fun to work on and great on the Kitchen table when kids are trying to eat. Oh yeah and HTKYSA is great

Thanks once again Jim, was contemplating it, but the carby shop guy had a 2nd hand one 'sitting' around - all done now - no slop! Now to figure out the choke!!, then install then do the AC idle up,.

Thanks Jim, Yep I did see your stuff. I have to get a whole new shaft cause some dufous welded the throttle linkage to the shaft, the carby shop are rebushing it for me, but is great idea to get rid of wobble, I reckon it's half the problems people have with a 'bad' carby after a rebuild Hitachi or weber, get them rebushed.

So know i can start trawling over the Nissan stuff as well in the JY, cool! I bet it wont make me popular at home

Sounds like a typical carby problem to me (having rebuilt carbys that do this a few times). probably the idel circuit has a blockage, clean and rebuild carby or put on a weber

Thanks again GD I have rebuilt a hitachi a few times, got it right in the end. Have learnt that carbys are best done slowly and surely. This is all new so am a little cautious sorry for so many questions. Ok can see how to get emulsion tubes out, is there anything else to be aware of when cleaning (hidden filters)?, they seem pretty simple carbs really which is nice. Where would the return barb go? On the top cover opposite the fuel inlet? Dont know if I can find another body in JY, only one near here and this is the first weber I have seen in two years there! I take your point though, i see one on ebay exactlty the same as mine and he wants $300 posted, so maybe this will be OK, if I can get new bushings. Anyway doing it yourself is a great way to learn something new. Last question 4 know, can I rig up the ac idle up and have the weber as well?

I am not the first but second owner of my 84 touring wagon. I still see the owner once a month and he loves it. This car was mint he had it for 22 years, all subaru service and history, digital dash, power windows everything. It's great to have the full history of the car and to hear things like "never, ever been on the beach" and "the wife washed it every wednesday" when you go to buy it after hounding him for so long to get it!!!! :)

Gday GD, thanx for that It does have a fair bit of play in the primary throttle shaft, I was going to take it to the local carby shop and get them to re-bush it. I think the bushes are about $3, labour probably more! How do i remove the emulsion tubes to clean them? I cant see anyway to screw them out. They just look like brass tubes with a circle in the middle, is there a special tool or are these old school ones not interchangeable? Starting to think that i should buy an already rebuilt one of ebay, cause I will spend $50 on cleaner!! and a kit $60. and adapter, etc. What about the install, is the power steering pump/reservoir an issue on ea-81 motors? What do i do with the fuel separator, there doesnt seem to be a return line from the carb, should i ditch it and put another filter in line and plug the return line? This is daunting for me, but kinda fun, the weber itself is quite big and kinda sexy, want to install it just for fun ya know O yeah i know that metal epoxy stuff, we dont have JB weld here but have used similar to fix radiator, thermostat housing that was leaking, etc. Thankx

Cmon all I know there are lots of weber fans out there. You must know something. Otherwise looks like i'll stick with me hitachi. It goes and gets better mileage than the factory lists it should. But seems everyone wants a weber must be something to it!

Got me self a weber 32/36 DGAV from JY off a bmw for 38 Bucks,says brevettato on on side and stamped on top is Bologna Italy. I was under impression that DGAV was a water choke but it seems that the choke i have is not a water choke? Do i need the choke, we have mild winters (lowest ever is 4 celsius) and hot dry summers. Can i also get some advice about the jets, I took a photo and recorded all the numbers, I think they match up with what GD recommends, can you tell me which are which, also where are the emulsion tubes? Other questions include. I am not clear whether the power steering reservoir/pump will get in the way on an ea81 motor? Is this a problem only on ea82. Also GD you mention JD weld to cover the coolant hole on the manifold what is JD weld? Excuse my ignorance, will this only be an issue if the adapter plate doesnt fit correctly? How can i install so that i have the AC idle up as well. It gets up to 45 celsius here so need my AC.Probably got more questions, buit get these sortyed first:confused:

Hey I recently had bad mileage was getting 12-13l/100km rather than the usual 9-10l/100km. Had my dizzy cleaned, rebushed and the vauum advance checked. Turns out mechanical advance was stuck, not moving smoothly. already had the new plugs, filters, air cleaner, etc runs great now at 9l/100km. Also if rebuiding carby (like I will do soon) either go the weber or check the throttle shaft free play (you cna get it rebushed for about $20, from any carby rebuild place). Not just cleaning involved in a rebuild.

Hey Soobs r reliable, but it's twenty years old! and you got it for $100!

My first soob the 81 wagon was a mistake to be sold (still regret it, has a lift kit and was great, still see it every now and then, might still get her back). My next 81 wagon had to go cause of rust. Bought a 93 wagon auto and sold because of the auto (too much petrol used). On a 84 wagon now and lovin it!