SuspiciousPizza

I believe the coolant leak from the radiator cap was caused by a worn plastic lip on the radiator. In the next few weeks I'll be doing a pressure test on the coolant system and a smoke test on the intake and vacuum system, as well as verify my timing (just gotta wait for the tools). More blurbs to come in a few weeks. If I don't see ya before the end of the year, happy holidays to all! :]

Replaced the timing belts, tensioners, and pulley. All went well. Started up, but I still had to keep my foot down. When I lifted my foot it did it's "normal" flutter idle at 250 RPM whereas before it was at 750 RPM (before it'd die below 500 RPM so small victory). Loud clicking from the center of the engine still there. As I went to go check on the clicking, it was PISSING coolant from the radiator cap. Well that's new. Could a head gasket issue cause the flutter and coolant leak? I'll keep posting as I chase this cornucopia of mysteries. Any suggestions or ideas are always welcome. :] Noah

Holy tinfoil hats, Batman! I love how planned obsolescence destroys good things. I'd almost rather the conspiracy of the parts being destroyed by a tsunami or nuclear disaster be true than dealers destroying parts. The search is the tedious, fun part for me. Requires networking, you meet cool people, and there's always a story. Keep 'em alive. If they've should have been thrown away then don't make them a blast to drive (modern vehicle corporations have picked up on this.)

Quick check of CTS, dizzy, and belt. CTS: Solid ground, 0.5 ohm resistance to ground. Haven't done the water temp test yet as I don't want to drain coolant for the umpteenth time if unnecessary. Dizzy: I can rock the car by the dizzy rotor. Dizzy seems solid in it's mounting. Belts: Uh-oh! I can deflect the belts with one finger (see images for where the most play is) I know belts have a high-tension side and a low-tension side but perhaps my belt has stretched beyond limit? I have a factory service manual to follow, but any belt service procedure in layman's terms would be helpful as cross-reference. :] Noah

She's a Cali girl. It's made getting parts interesting since all GL's around had disintegrated 20 years ago. I rust treated her 80% of the way this year, and next year I'll be more thorough, addressing all the rust I can but most is up front underneath near the steering rack, and near the base of the windshield. I've been to Michigan for a replacement dual range transmission, Minnesota for a huge parts lot, and Illinois for an EA81 (only 60k miles!) which is my engine-swap if push comes to shove and I cannot source an EA82. All parts that aren't listed online are basically unobtanium, but that makes it fun. :] Noah

I did not purchase the belt kit, but if you have any OEM CV's up, then I've probably at least looked at them, been buying those like crazy lately. The reason my car is sitting is I blew the passenger DOJ boot, which sits right above the cat for some reason (can't imagine that's good for the grease nor boot.) So I'm taking the time to address old gremlins. I'll check the CTS, dizzy, and vac lines (I should be replacing those and their fittings anyways since I'm pretty sure the fittings are almost all original. But the rat's nest has always appeared intimidating.) I have a continental belt kit which has new idlers and I believe I have a new OEM tensioner as well, so I'll be checking that too. New fuel filters are on the way. Under hood one was WIX and I've seen others on here lamenting about them. Could it be an intake boot issue? I have a new-used one on standby. :] Noah

'89 GL SPFI. Has had an idle issue since I've bought it (6 months ago). RPM's will flutter approx plus or minus 25 RPM with idle set to 750 RPM. It will continue to flutter until 1250 RPM. Along with this is a rattle-tick that is too fast to be a cam or lifter (the noise comes from the center of the engine). It will stall when cold unless I keep the accelerator held above 1000 RPM until the needle reads just above cold. RPM's will not increase when cold, it wants to but it sounds like it bogs then catches itself, leading to a loping-idle. What's been replaced: Plugs, dizzy cap, rotor, ignition wires, coil, IAC valve, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, radiator cap (this has helped the issue, but it still lopes) My ideas: Timing issue, water in the fuel system (it sat about a month while doing full suspension work), some sort of vacuum leak (haven't tested with a gauge), fuel pump or injector issue, a computer issue, a ground/harness issue Any guidance or pointers? Hope you enjoyed the novel :]

Forum noob, From central Wisconsin, bought myself an '89 GL wagon (Dual Range, oohlala). Currently my daily and what I'm using to gain experience repairing my own vehicle. There will be questions.