Turbone

A dull sound could be a couple of things. A bad main bearing or piston. The person that might have a engine for you lives in Oly. His name is Mark (XSNRG). Might send him a PM and see what he has.

Yup, right-o. Darn CRS:rolleyes: Forgot about the AT's.

Way to go Ed, I wont be drinking alone then:clap:

Lithium grease attracts dirt like a magnet. Dont recco it for external purposes at all.

Its most likely a solid lifter engine, therefore any tapping will be a valve adjustment. It just doesnt sound the same either.

The rotors, calipers and most important of all, the backing plate.

O'Dooles for me:rolleyes:

Any 85 to 92 Turbo, GL-10 or XT model with 4wd will work.

I must have missed that Thread:-\ But you know, the prices arent all that bad. Look what you would pay for here for some real nice OZ alloys (Or whatever top brand).

Maybe if there was a group buy, it would lower the cost?

I think thats a very acceptable time frame. Now would you care to share the price? If not I would understand.

It only depends if its 2wd or 4wd. Any Soob from 85 to 92(I think) that has disc brakes will work. Most of the Turbo Models had rear disc, and some GL-10''s did also. You will have to have the right running gear to match thats all.

Sweet! How long did you have to wait?

Theres 2 adjusting nuts under the center console for the e-brake. I would suggest you take a look at the front brakes tho. The best way to get rid of the rear brake cylinder problem is to replace them with disc brakes. The conversion is simple and easy. And pads are alot easier to change than shoes.

Welcome to the nuthouse:grin: We are all a little crazy about our cars. As for engines, you can use a 83 or 84. Anything prior to that from 1980 can be used but the emission setups are different. They should be in your local wrekcing yards, and if you are on the east coast there should be some with low miles, seeing how everything rusts out before the engine dies. There might be some members here that can provide with one or a place to get one too. Again, welcome to the Board:headbang:

Dont know about Oregon, but in Washington you need to be 21 to drink:rolleyes: And thats a long ways to drive just for Pizza:cool:

Has it been that long? Last time we went out was Kanaskat, when I had the blue Hatch. Hope to see you again soon to do some more wheeling. I will try and get some pics of underneath, maybe by tomorrow. The tires are 30x10.50 Superswamper TSL's. Very wide tires and make all kinds of noise on the road and stick way out. The wheels are Chevy 15in 6 lugs drilled out to fit the hubs. I would prefer skinnier tires, might look into get some later and selling these. Heres a pic right after I got it and promptly got it stuck in a mud hole. Stupid open diff.

When I got my Hatch there was a "rock slider" installed. Of course, the damage was already done, they were installed in hindsight. It took me a good 2hrs to beat out the rockpan/doorjam so the bottom of the door would seal and not let water in. The door has also been replaced, so whoever did the damage did a real number to it. The bars are 1.5in x 3in stock with flat bar welded to it and then bolted to the frame rails. They are not that heavy and I think its a smart addition to any offroader.

Was it sticking before you replaced the cable?

The problem with the covers is that sometimes the nut on the back cover will just spin in the plastic, which makes it very hard to remove the bolts on the front covers. Usually you end up breaking that piece on the cover and if you break enough of them off, it makes it hard to keep the cover on. So, replacing the covers becomes a option. If you live in the city or suburb, having covers off isnt a problem IMO. If you drive where theres road hazards, you need to consider keeping the covers on.

Use some carb cleaner on the linkage also, it might free it up some. When you remove the throttle cable, inspect the cable good, look for any frayed pieces. This will cause it to hang up. Another point is the bracket that holds the cable sheath end. If its tweaked it will cause the cable to bind, make sure its straight.

Dont forget, theres still going to be a mudpit at the Fairgrounds. I dont think we need any real radical trail rides, breakage on a trail is no fun. Speaking of breakage and hopefully this never happens, but what about a local hospital? I think I remember where the NAPA store is, it was pretty busy when we came into town:-p

And just do it slowly, so it has a chance to do its work and get out the exhaust. The 84 Turbo Coupe I used to have was completly locked up when I got it. The PO said that they blew a hose when going up a grade with the AC on. It got hot so quick that the oil was percolating out the filler tube and seized up. I got it home and pulled the sparkplugs out, then cranked it over. It was like 4 mini gysers, each cylinder was full of oil. But after a tune up and a few other items it fired right up and ran like a champ.

This is what you should have bought. http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/132659899.html

Look, theres no easy way to lower your car. It means you would either have to cut the springs (not a good idea) or go the 5 lug swap route (which might put it out of your price range). I suggested no heavy mods, just make it a nice daily driver until you can afford or find something better. If you dont like our ideas here, go to NASIOC.com. They will help.