Turbone

Some GL models that had all the options, but were not RX's had different colors. Blue is one, but thats all I can think of right now.

Well, after reading all the posts, until your last one, I was ready to say run it. Oil that sits for 2yrs or more is going to discolor. Now you may have to flip that coin. Theres been some folks that have run engines with very small HG leaks for quite a long time, with no problems. This might happen in your case. You can run it the way it is, and if you keep an eye on the oil I think it might be fine. But sooner or later those HG's are going to have to be changed.

I just read this, at 8pm PSTime. Its going to have to wait till tomorrow. If you dont get a reply, you will need to remind me. I suffer from CRS

There is a sensor in each shock and the computer tells the solenoid when to release air. When you reach 45mph(I think) the car will lower. Either your computer is bad or the shocks. Go over to XT6.net, they can tell you more about it. I bypassed the computer and compressor on mine and fill them manually now.

Ok, enough tech stuff and back to topic The reason I bought my RX is because its the rarest of all. They only made a black RX in the last half of 89. If it wasnt for this, I would still own my 84 T-Coupe. And embarrasing alot of RallyX's with newer/faster rigs.

Eww, I know for a fact if you take that trail its not getting thru without a beauty mark. Or 2 Might come and watch, but cannot do any trails. For my trucks sake

You need to loosen the pulley which keeps tension, then push against it and tighten.

All the fuses are good, I'm replacing a relay tomorrow (for the fan). But the compressor will not turn on. Is there a way to bypass the AC to get the defroster working?

Actually, OEM is the best and they arent that expensive.

Make sure you replace it with a OEM thermostat.

Welcome to the club, but you dont need a RX to post here. Just a Old Gen Soob. Oh, the RX is nice, to bad its white tho :cool: J/K, I'm biased

1. Grounds, add another one and clean the old ones. 2. Put a different battery in, see if the same problem occurs. 3. Look at Ign switch connector under the dash cover (its pink). Sometimes with age this gets overheated and looses good contact and/or melts.

Why dont you trade her, and a little cash? You could fix hers and turn around and sell it, making your money back. Hope you can get it fixed Connie, the brakes are real important and getting rebuilt cylinders might be an option. No sense in putting new brakes on when those leak. The timing belts are another must and are only about $50 total(depending on where purchased, might be cheaper). Water pump can be replaced the same time the belts are done. The oil leaks can be fixed later on, unless its spewing out like the main vein has been cut. The clutch can also wait, at least until it wont go any more. Maybe some adjustment will help? The ticking is pretty normal when warming up. If you have the time and money you can replace the oil pump seals, this will quiet it down for a long time. Good luck, and maybe someone from the board in your area can give you hand.

Hey, thats Buckley Evans Crk is just passed my place about 20mi. and on the way up to Mt Rainier

I think I have it, somewhere. Not sure about the shroud tho. But I will look. The wires are only about a year old. When a car is privately sold in Wa. state, it is sold "As Is". Even the used car lots are like that, and say so on the window unless otherwise stated.

The 86 digidash has the little icon and also says turbo, when the ign is turned on. The analog has it printed on the panel with a light also. usually the badging will tell you if its a turbo or not.

Alright, Carl I think I have another downpipe cat for it (ungutted) and its for a EA82T. Altho it doesnt have the resonater cat either. If you can find one up there go for it, if it will save you a trip down here. The rad was replaced a while ago, but it was with another used one. It really needs a 2 row in it. I removed the clutch fan on my 86 T-Wagon and put a electric on it also, and it doesnt overheat at all. I think the characteristics of older Soobs vary from car to car, they all act and behave different. As for taking care of it, I kind of resent that Adam. I have had the car for almost 5 yrs and have made, what I think, are improvements to it. Maybe I'm taking this wrong, maybe not. Unfortunatly it was purchased by somebody that lives in the city and needs to pass emissions. But the car runs great except for the heating issue. It did really well at 2 recent RallyX's, plus the trip down there and back.

I removed the clutch fan a long time ago, wanted to give it a little more HP. As for the air filter, thats probably from the last RallyX at Hood River (cant remember getting a bird tho Maybe if you try a different testing facility next time? Another thing is, I would rather have it run rich, but you may have to lean it out a little to get the numbers down. You may want to take the plenum off and give a good cleaning inside, theres oil in it from the turbo. Dont worry, thats normal. Thats why all the WRX and STI guys have the oil catch can in the system. Go to a Sooby car show sometime and you will see what I mean. Its kind of wierd seeing my old car in someone elses sig

Heres a little info that BobBrumby posted about that Gen1 Brat with WRX engine and other upgrades. Geach wrote: can you go into detail about the work involved in fitting the front and rear brakes? how did you get the STi hubs to sit in the MY ball joints? It was a lot of customised work and fabbing up. We will be down for the byb cruise in October. After that cruise I might draw up an article and post it on the forum. All the info is in my head and not on paper at the moment. As you can now start to see for anyone thinking of doing a conversion like this it is even harder than a wrx conversion on the wheel/brake/hub side because the sti gear is that much bigger again than the wrx stuff. In all a mate and I spent 700 hours doing it to what you see today. I would guarantee that this conversion on a Gen1 would be just as hard on a EA81. Drilling holes in control arms and moving parts around and mixing them really isnt going to give good results.

Doesnt Corky still have it on his web site? Edit; Found it 5 lug conversion

Ditto on what Snowman said. Zero pressure at idle after the car is warmed up is common. And the ticking is usually fixed after a oil pump reseal.

Carl, I was never sure if it would pass or not. Seeing how I'm in a area where testing isnt required, I never worried about it. It has been sitting for a while too, may have some crud in it that needs to burn out. Not to mention its 20yrs old. And the cat is gutted. I have wanted to put a 2 row rad in it for a long time, just never had the $ for it. And as far as I know the fans are blowing the correct way. Idling for a long time was a problem, but not when it was rolling. Never had to high idle it sitting still :-\ Cant remember the last time I changed the air filter either :-\ Try fine tuning it, timing and air mixture, when you get some tune up stuff on. Hope you can get it passed, we may have to register it out here again.

Uh yea, like the same question asked 3 times in one week I vote for a seperate forum for Soob mods.

You didnt find anything in the search because nobody has done it to a EA81 yet. And as far as I know, it cant be done. Altho its a fairly simple bolt on job on a EA82, the EA81 suspension is totally different and the hubs will not bolt up.

If the cat has a heat shield on it, thats most likely the cause of the rattling.