Turbone

Eh, never do the happy dance till the car is in your possesion

Check the fuses. Most of us here are not to familiar with your cars setup, so we may not be able to give precise instructions. But generaly we check the fuses when something stops working.

Pull the coil wire off the disty and see if your getting spark there. And check all wiring, if the coil wire came loose, something else might have also.

Here is a article on the wiring. http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29dd8b797565.58568597/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2e1983b92179.98068180.art Might do some reading here, but most of the post were from Feb. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=18052

You might have one of the last bunch made. Newer materials in it, and just maybe a few better/upgraded parts in it. Or it could even be a rebuild, or (shudder) a new one bought from the stealer $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

The N/A intake has no tube for the cooling of the turbo. It has to be drilled and tapped and a line ran to it. The EGR is another, but I'm not sure yet what needs to be done with that. Also, the wiring for the TPS is a little different and needs to have a wire or two spliced. SubaruTex has done the transplant, and the install should be in the archives (search). This is the first I've heard anything about the injectors being different yet, but they are both MPFI.

Only if you dont have a/c. The cooler is in the way. If not, you wont need the grill, it can be cut to fit.

Timing belts and cooling system. Find out if either one has been serviced recently. If you want piece of mind replace the belts and flush the cooling system.

The 86 GL-10 Turbo Wagon with digidash came with it. :cool: There might be some other models that had the digidash with the buzz/whistle/ring.

Hmm, normally its at 3K in the T-Wagon. It gets better MPG that way. But just last week I went thru $20 of gas in 2 days. Mine is equipped with a whistle when you hit 6500. And I was hitting it often.

That depends on what me and the Tech agree on. I would like to have people send their old ones in, and in return we give them a working dash. So the old one would be a core charge. So the more cores we have, the more working ones we would have available. Of course, no core and it will cost a little more, but who doesnt have a non-working digidash? Yea I know, not to many of us. We will have to sit down and figure out how much labor is going to be, because we all know parts arent that expensive. Unless its a hard to find one. The rebuilds might have built in breakers also, so if there is a spike, it will trip the breaker, not burn up the internals. This could bring up the cost a little. But I am hoping to have them cheaper than $100, but thats not set in stone yet. Not trying to under cut you Andrew, you only have 1 dash.

I had problems with the dash in my 84 Turbo Coupe, and went and put in a analog temp, oil pressure and amp gauge. I'm sure the sending unit still works for the fuel, but it might read different if you use a analog gauge. Sending units are readily available for EA81's in the yards tho, and are quite simple to swap out. Will, that would be a great asset to the board, and should be put in the online repair manual. Get with Shadow or Shawn to see about doing it.

I've done several dash replacements, but never on a 80 model. I think the inside dimensions are the same on the 2, but not positive. As for the wiring, I have no clue there either . As a matter of fact, it sounds like I cant help much here at all Pull off the original cluster and see how the plugs are setup on the back. Then compare with the new one. If it looks like they are the same, then you should be able to do the swap without to many problems. Theres 3 bolts along the front, 1 on each end and 1 in the center. Then under the corner on each side byt the quarter panel. The wiring loom will need to be detached, and the cables for the heater/vents also. The heater vent ducts usually come off by themselfs. It would be a good idea to take the steering wheel off, and drop the steering column also.

If its making noise, you need to get a new, or almost new alternator. If you use a old one, make sure you check the voltage. If its all over the place on the reading, dont use it. Another suggestion is to make sure all grounds are good. These dashes are getting old, and the guts are fragile and cannot handle any voltage spikes. As of yet, there are not any fixed. This has been in the works for over a year now, cause of the need to butcher a wiring harness for testing purposes. Well I found one recently, and now I'm waiting for the Tech to get back in town. You newer guys wanting one are going to have to get at the back of the line, sorry Luvmybrat, if the dash isnt toast yet, I wouldnt even start the car until the problem is fixed.

Thats ok, just thought it would make things easier for shipping, and 10% was the figure I was thinking Ed. And I did think about the crunch factor Yea, let me know if the lights are good and how much to ship to 98321. Thanks.

If its got good tail lights, throw them in the box with the LSD and I'll help Ed with the shipping

Yea, its the regulator most the time. I'll see what the tech says once we get some fixed. We might be able to get a line on parts, so maybe others not in our general area can get some repaired.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17288 I should be talking to the tech this weekend, and will hopefully get the ball rolling again. There seems to be a few more people with bad digi's out there and we're trying to get some done. One thing eveyone needs to be aware of. When there is a squeeling noise coming from the dash area, shut of the ignition immediately and replace the alternator. For those of you who have pulled the units out, you will notice the speaker on the back. This is a warning device for when the alternator is starting to spike and do other bad things.

Excellent work Mate! But you forgot to tell us how well it bloody runs

Some people prefer S/R for the street. My 86 Turbo Wagon has it, but thats the Wifes car. She wouldnt know what to do with D/R

Yes, they are in the tank. But they have different resistance values :-p But like I stated earlier, I might have some repaired and available soon. And I doubt they will be at a ridiculous price either

Oh yea, forgot this one and the post above reminded me. The fuel tank sending unit is different with the digidash, and I'm pretty sure the temp is also. They may work, but they wont be right.

How good are your electrical wiring skills? Can you read the wiring diagrams in the FSM? Do you have alot of patience? Not to many people (2, maybe) have done a digi to analog swap. I'm trying (still) to get some of these digidashes repaired, had a small problem getting some parts, but things should start rolling again soon. As soon as I have 1 or 2 available I will post it here.

Back at ya!

Uh, you should have called me first If you havent bought it from the stealer yet, shoot me an email or if you still have my #, call.