Turbone

The person was Rguyver. I thought his setup was Turbo on a NA block? Rob

Check the bolts that attach the carb to the manifold. Also check the filler tube to the tank, they sometimes develop cracks. Rob

15, if you count the parts cars. Have 5 in the driveway right now. I might have forgotten a few:rolleyes: Rob

Check the voltage output at the Alt, and then check it at the battery. If its 12v +, and less at the battery, then the VR is toast. If its less than 12v from the Alt, then its toast. Rob

Is it a 2 piece driveline? Rob

Welcome to the board. Indeed you do have a rare 83. Most 83/84 4wd's with AT were Turbo models. It sounds like you have a vacume leak somewhere. Listen for a whistle, but if you cant hear one, get a can of brake cleaner and spray (lightly) around the vacume lines. If theres a change in rpm's, you have a leak. The autos also have had issues with the vacume modulator. A line runs from the intake manifold to the passenger side of the trannie. Make sure this line isnt leaking also. Rob

When was the last time you changed the oil? And what grade are you using? It might help if you used a 10-W40 for colder temps, maybe even 10-W30. If you re-seal the oil pump, go with OEM parts. Rob

Turbo pistons are flat for low compression. Rob

Where did you buy the plugs at? It really makes a diff, the superstores end up with old stock and not the best of the batch. Thats why they can sell them so cheap. Buy your plugs from an auto store. You are the first one I have ever heard of having probs with NGK. Rob

Sparks? From what area of the trany were they coming from? Sounds like something came loose and bound up. But sparks do not sound good, you may be looking for replacements Rob

Are you using the designer (for lack of a better word) silicone? Thats not designed for water or fuel. I can imagine it could crack in freezing weather, its pretty cheap stuff. Rob

What, it took you 3 months to find it? Rob

Give us an update after you get them off. Rob

I suggest putting in a new waterpump, not terribly expensive, and it sounds almost like the problem I had. Rob

I have started replacing any old water lines with silicone. They will last longer than the car (hopefully). The only place I could find it was at...........you guessed it, Napa. Rob

Well, I got the waterpump installed in mine and it cured the heating spike that I was experiancing. I hope your radiator fixes yours. Rob

Sound like he's in the Bakersfield area. Its pretty empty around there, hope someone from the LAX area can help. Rob

Well, here in the NW, its been snowing off and on for over a week. And today was the worst. It snowed a couple more inches(more in some places) and then started in with freezing rain. All the roads are ice rinks, and luckily most people decided to stay home today, including me. Rob

I'm having the same issue with my 86 turbo wagon. It will actually go to the red and hold it for a minute (with me holding my sphinkter tight), and then it will drop to normal op temp. I replaced the thermostat with no effect. Granted, its not OEM. I also had the anti-freeze smell and some leakage, and after some time and alot of looking, I found the source of the leak. It was/is the waterpump. The car has 126K, and I really didnt suspect it. But once I removed it and looked at it, it was really rusted. The car is waiting for warmer temps to install the WP, I removed it when the first storm hit, brrrrrr. Considering the mileage of your car, and the smell of anti-freeze, this could be your problem too. This unfortunatly is not a quick fix:( I have to remove the A/C, Alt, crank pulley and the timing belt covers, and both fans. Rob

They look similiar, but they arent the same. Rob

Just might have one for ya Odd. Give me a pm. Rob

Your getting 2 different answers, which are both correct. All glass in the EA81's are gasket type, EA82's are all glued in. I have removed both types. The EA81 glass will come out by taking a utility knife and going all the way through the gasket and then around the window. It may take a little muscle to pull the knife around, just take your time. Use 2 people to remove it when done. Now, the glued in type is a RPIA. I watched a pro do my last window removal which needed to go in another car. Piece of wire and gloves of course. Start at the top and work down the side, using quick back and forth sawing motion. This heats up the wire and helps it cut thru the glue. You need a long length to go thru the top and bottom at the same time cause you need to work it back and forth together. Takes about 45min. It helps to have most the trim removed from the inside, and in my case the dash was removed also. A couple of weeks ago I did a removal from a EA82 parts car I have. Used the utility knife on the sides and top (very carefully)and I used a propane torch to heat up a fillet knife for the bottom. Its about 2in top to bottom of glue. It was slow work, took me about 1.5hrs to get the glass out, but I didnt break it. Rob

I have an 86 GL-10 Turbo Wagon with 125K mi and digidash, havent had a problem yet. No reason to sell the car just for that. What electrical problems are you having? Rob

Hey Austin, who did it, and how much? Rob PS, Looks good:D

Geeze, where was I when this was posted? My 84 Turbo Coupe has about the same mileage as other EA81T's. Qman is also correct with the statement of the pedal on the right connected to fuel consumption. I had better MPG when I was on the freeway, around 24mpg. Rob