Equalizer

Just read this so response is a little late. Glad that it popped out by itself. But, for anyone that it helps, body shops and kayakers have been using the heat gun, or hair dryer method, often with success. If a dent in plastic, or polymer happens, use a hair dryer on the spot and see if it comes out. Like you said, there is usually abrasion, or sometimes cracked paint but its cheaper than a new bumper cover.

Northguy, What is a DOJ? BTW, my boots are in good shape, and there is no clicking while pulling into a sharp turn. Do I diagnose these by shaking them to see if there is excessive play? Thanks!

Since I got this car, 98 Leg OB, its had a strong vibration in the front left side, especially at HW speeds. Its far worse when turning left than into a right hand curve. Its smooth when going straight. I'm seeing no grooving in the rotors, or more wear in the front right than in the left, but I do believe that one, or both are warped. Why, because it pulses when using the brake under heavy load. I changed out the tires, front to back, then replaced the whole set w/another set of tires and wheels. I just wanted to get other opinions to consider any other possibilities before replacing the rotors and brakes. BTW, Speaking of brakes/ rotors, do you guys have opinions on which brand. The OEMs are almost twice what the Silvers are at Advanced Auto, when it comes to rotors, if memory is correct. I'll probably go w/semi-metalic since I do mixed driving, mostly hwy. No need to warm them up to grab well. Thanks

Way to go Geoff! You go a great deal, especially w/the timing belt replacement thrown in. Did the dealer have a special rebate this month, or did you find another private garage? eq

I hate to say that chances are low, or anything like that, because next thing it could be me. However, I drive my OB like a rally car on some extremely curvy paved roads. With the right tires, I've always been pleased w/how it handles despite talk to the contrary on some threads. On the other hand, I've driven Doc Death's (my ex-girlfiend's father) OB, same year, etc, just has different tires and an auto tranny, and it handles like a Chevy Blazer. I don't know if its the tires or the auto slip differential or the combo, but it'll roll if I drove it the same as my boy. eq

First thing I'd do is call around until you can find a Chilton's AND a Haynes manual. Buy them both. Even if you don't know sasquatch about cars, study the manuals where it pertains to your car and then, and only then will you know what is involved w/the job. Next, ask other subi owners who they take their's too and their recommendations. Best price might be someone, besides a stealership, who regularly works on subis and is honest. It might be a hard search, but unless you do it yourself, its going to save you money, time, and regret. The guy should replace your whole engine w/a brand new one for $4000. "Subaru dealerships" are code for"How can we rob you?.......Thank you very much.......Now come back again, so we can keep ripping you off." Its a shame that SOA puts up w/all of the organized crime that goes on. It's a reflection on their character as a company. I wish I was a secret shopper for the company, I'd be tempted to take the mangy service managers and service them w/a crow bar and make 'em pay back all of their customers. Time to do some equalizing. whack-whack-whack-crack-crack-gurgle-cough-snap! Now, where are those 'beatin' the snot out of the service mnger icons at? Best wishes and don't get ripped, eq

Slo5oh, That's all I wanted to know. Just needed to confirm this before throwing more good money at bad. Considering the 200k+ mileage, I am looking for a good confirmable, low mileage used engine. Do you happen to know which years would be compatable w/the 97? After reading about blown h-gaskets in newer cars, I'm still not sure if SOA has corrected their defect. Until I find a junker w/a good engine for a reasonable price, I w/flush this one again and use another container of the engine stop-leak. Thanks, eq

Thanks guys! You are great! I'll check the auto-body stores for one of those plastic razors, (I sure hope the Homeland thugs didn't outlaw those through the Unpatriotic Act). Then I'll try the heat and the mild solvents. Sydfloyd 44, That's some good service. If you were w/in driving distance and knew you had a shop, I'd have given you the job. Next time I have a broken window, I'll get some of that tape. I know what you mean about the difference in quality painter's tape. Even normal masking tape is bad stuff to leave on more than a day. I learned that through experience. Taped off my trim in the house and didn't peel it off for a couple of days. It left the beige glue behind. I'll try to find a roll of the good stuff. That'll be my first job tomorrow after presure washing the house. I appreciate the help, my friends, eq

I blew the head gaskets on my 97 Leg OB last year, flushed the cooling system and have been using engine block sealer in the coolant ever since. The car hesitated prior to blowing the gaskets, but it has gotten progressively worse over time. It is especially bad when the engine is warm, ie. lots of hwy driving followed by in town. Lots of the time, there is missing and lack of power when starting from a dead stop. I have to rev the engine rpms up to 4000, then let the clutch out to keep it from bogging down. Is this likely the infamous classic hessitation problem that so many 2.5's have, or is this more likely a result of the increase in head gasket blow by? BTW, it does blow some coolant out into the resevoir all of the time, but just not sure if its related to signs of power loss, missing, and hessitation. Any thoughts/recommendations appreciated. Best regards, Eq

A tornado visited my car one day and left a gift. It was a a small branch from a willow that took out a quarter window on the way to caving in a door of my OB. Before having the rest of the body work done, (ie. dents in fenders, roof, bumpers), I decided to replace the window. Right after the break, I decided to tape some plastic onto the window. I ruled out duct tape because it leaves a heavy adhesive behind. I used a thin clear packing tape. The window is now replaced and the guy who did it says he tried everything to get the rest of the tape off, but nothing would penetrate the plastic to disolve the glue. He said I should have used duct tape instead. Why? Because you can tear it all off to get to the glue backing. He said that I should let it weather until it gets brittle, then get something under it. Anyhow, I'm looking for a solution. Does anyone know how to get this off my paint and window trim (plastic) without scratching, or removing the paint and discoloring the plastic? Thanks, Eq

You all have given excellent advice. I appreciate it and will take everyones advice on each point. 99OBW, I agree. I guess most car buying guides always say, check the fluids, etc. I just thought I'd report. Just about every dealer car I've ever looked at had at least oil and radiator changed. Problem is that you can't tell anything from fresh fluids. I never heard of overheated antifreeze until this radiator guy told me. Its hard to believe, unless maybe scortched little bit in a dry system that isn't circulating?.....I dunno. Anyhow, the only way that ever happened in mine is from blown head gasket(s). Maybe Mike is right about the second engine though. Gas check should show. On another note, my head gasket on my 97 OB didn't bubble into the overflow tank, but it did bubble much w/the cap off radiator. Sometimes its hard for me to distinguish between engine gasses and air burping out of the system. I took it to a garage that had the engine gas guage and that's how I finally confirmed my suspicions. I hope to find time monday to take it to two body shops, that garage, my own, and pay the $50 for a professional inspection from the only Subaru dealer that never lied to me, (albeit a 40min. drive away). The dealer said he'd run a carfax by phone. meep, You and I were thinking the same on the second engine and on the no dings on a 98 theory. I'll check on the clamp marks, etc. remarkable, Never thought of checking those mounts, etc. Thanks. I'll do that. When it comes down to it. I need to buy another engine for my 97 eventually. So far, so good, but don't know for how long. Same goes for the 98 GT too w/this mileage. I know the problem w/mine, but not the other. However, if its got a clean bill of health, it sounds like a good deal. Other than the few extras, does anyone know if there is much structurally different between the GT and plain standard Legacies, (ie. Suspension, wheel bearings, etc.)? Frank

My favorite is the one that I hold out my window with my left hand as I drive w/my right. Its kind of heavy after a while but the 3million candle power really puts daylight where you want it. I've got a Sylv. Silv. on one side and stock yellow on the other......Its a big difference in color temp and makes it at least visually brighter. I'd need to use one of those photo meters to make sure how much actual light increase. One thing that I havent' heard yet is the need for a clear lens. I don't know about yours, but mine scatters a lot of light and is far more opaque than a new one w/all of the rock dings/scratches. Wish there was an aftermarket alternative for the lenses, don't you?

Got a chance to look at it this evening. Thanks for your imput Scooby. First the Engine Compartment: All fluids just changed by dealer. Each component on the engine had a yellow mark on it. What does THAT mean? Did they come from a junk yard? The metal cover around the belts had heavy surface rust. The one thing that bothered me was that the overflow tank had the same black coating on some of the interior surface that mine had when the head gaskets blew. The radiator specialist told me that its overheated antifreeze. Any suggestions here especially are appreciated. Second the interior: Quick lookover. Clean and normal looking wear for 127,000mi. Sunroof works. Piece of plastic molding on left side rear ceiling next to door was pulled away. Exterior: It had a tow hitch. Paint looked too good. Hardly any scratches, which leads me to believe that it was wrecked and repainted. I will take it to a couple of big body shops tomorrow and let their trained eyes let me know. The light was cloudy, but from what I saw from the rear along the sides was flawless......no ripples. ?BTW, Excuse my ignorance, but on the GT, are the door handles and side molding black plastic like the OB, or are they the same smooth solid color as the rest of the car? Tomorrow I will test drive it, have a mechanic and body shop or two check it out. It might not be an OB, but at least its my color guys!!! Insert comments in comment box below:

Hey guys, There's a Canadian (km) 98 Legacy GT w/approx. 200km=approx. 125,000mi. if my conversion is correct. I have no idea what the history is, but have to assume poor since it was an auction car. I'm going to check it out tommorrow and get back to you. At $3600 it sounds like a good price IF it doesn't have the common blown head gasket, etc.... I already have one of those holding together w/radiator/block seal on my 97 OB. I like my OB lots. Wish it were an OB, but my puppy has 200,000MI. How does it compare to the Leg Outback? Any pros/cons/ opinions? Thanks! Frank

99obw, I agree that other things should be done while the engine is out. Good advice. The 200k is 90%hwy mileage, so there isn't as much overall wear and tear as a typical high mileage car. Either way, I can't afford another car, so I will likely opt for a rebuild. Just hate to do it on this engine considering its likely warped. I found someone who is searching. He sold the same engine w/40k to someone for $600 and can possibly get me a similar deal. Thanks. theotherskip, Thanks for the advice. I got a chance to read most of your site and I am mighty impressed! You must have put more time into the write up, records and site than you did the repair. I appreciate your hard work to help out guys like me. It seems as if the newer engines have the same head gasket problems. It makes me mad when car manufacturers refuse to correct their defects. Q: Do you know of any new and improved head gaskets that hold up better than the original manufacturers one that eventually blows? lmdew, Thanks for the offer. Sorry to learn that you ended up having to invest in two engines. I can't afford that at this point, but will keep you in mind and pass along the info to anyone else I come across that needs one. Best regards, eq

Just a recap, I've got a leaky/ blown head gasket(s) on my 97 Leg OB manual tranny. I want to restore my car and see how many years I can get out of it. Its got 200,000miles so, I thought another engine w/low miles might be the best way to go. Nevertheless, I am open to getting a rebuild top end, or crate engine IF I can find one. Until then, the engine seal additives and running without a thermostat seems to be working well. That said, Were the newer '98-2000engine much/any improvement and is '97 the only compatible engine? If so, how can I find what serial #s were the early 97s and the better later run 97 engines w/the "corrections?" Thanks guys! eq

All, Thanks for all of the advice. It seems to me most resonable to do the prep work myself and have a drive through paint company spray and bake the paint. However; with a new detour that I just learned about, it'll take around two hours to get to the closest drive through shops in Pittsburg. Qs: :-\ 1. Considering the distance, bugs, and need to thoroughly re-wash the car with nothing better than probably a high pressure wand at a hopefully close car wash......unless the shop lets me use theirs, or they want to wash it themselves: Do you forsee any problems w/this? 2. Do you recommend one paint company over another? 3. Do I remove everything except for the lower pin stripe and heavy lower paint section on the older OBs? Cookie, When you talk about sanding, do you mean a light sand through the clear overall, except where its chiped and scratched........then prime over paint? Would you recommend priming like this before taking it to the paint shop, or do they use primer? Mtsmiths, I'm really partial toward high metallic in the paint and lots of depth. What kind of problem does metallic have and can the problems be avoided w/an extra step? I'm not too concerned w/it looking completely original if that's the only problem. When I eventually sell this car, it might have half a milliion miles on it and not be worth a darn by then. I'm not sure what you mean by sunburned clear coat. Is that the dull oxidized look the paint gets? BTW, I am getting a book tommorrow on the subject. I'm always ready to listen to a "geezer", especially you guys that have been-there-done-that. Thanks again ya-all

Mtsmiths, There aren't any of those low cost shops in my city, but might find one across state lines an hour and a half away. A body shop quoted me $200 for reparing a crese and cut in a fender. I can do the bumpers myself. That's probably no biggy. I just hear that I'll need "flexer" additive for the paint to keep it from peeling. I might just make that trip for the paint. But w/have to do all the talk over the phone and find a ride to take me there twice. Thanks for the advice. Cookie, If I do the car the same color, should I take it down to bare metal and use etching, etc, or just go through the clear coat, use tack rag and repaint, then clear?

It doesn't seem to burn oil, and gets the same lousy gas mileage that it did 100k ago, but she's got 200,000mi. now. I've pulled some engines to replace clutches (pretty easy, but time consuming), but don't know anything about rebuilding. If the head's warped and needs turned down, there are suppossed to be other adjustments and matters get more complicated. Don't know that a rebuilt top side would be wise w/the possible wear on the bottom, but still a little open to that option. BTW, the past 100,000mi. I've change the oil every 3-6K miles, and sometimes add PTFE. I can get a different one w/almost 100K for over $1000, but that's the rediculous ballpark they are going for around here. BTW, Does anyone know if crate engines are available or a good option? Thanks

I've got a 97 forest green OB and in spite of 200,000mi., I'd like to keep it at least two more years. It needs body work, two new bumpers and another engine, but restoration might be a better/more affordable option than replacement........that is, IF I can paint it my-self The scratches, keyed marks, oxidation, etc. have really added up. Last week a customer's dog jumped up all over one side and scratched the :temper: out of two doors! That did it in IMHO. I hate body work and w/leave that to a pro, but I can't get a quote below $1,000 for a complete repaint! Can-Not-Do at that price. However, I have access to the following: -Garage -Compressor -Air sprayer I'm not too artistic, but am willing to learn, sometimes handy under the hood and must do it while its still in the 60's-70's F, so I don't have to run the heater to warm up the garage and ruin the paint w/dust particles. Another option is to take a chance and take it to a vo-tech center so the kids can practice and do it at the cost of supplies. No guarantees and may take a long time to get it back. I suspect that I can skip the top since nobody sees that and no damage up there. Do you recommend that I paint it myself? Can I cover it w/one coat of the same color, plus one more clear coat? Candy apple orange w/look cool, but now we are probably talking big $ :bday: THANKS, eq

I have a leaky head gasket.....at least that's my suspicion since there were combustion gasses in the radiator fluid. 3 Or 4 containers of "permanent" engine block stop leak in the radiator later as well as removing the thermostat, and the overheating problem is over. It still loses some fluid and power, but am keeping the thermostat out until I can find a good priced, low mileage engine. I found one w/25,000mi. ,(unless rolled back), but too much at $2,000. What is compatable w/this 97 Leg OB wagon? Any recommendations? BTW, its good to be back! (I like this board.) eq