cx20

I tracked my MPG when I first got my 2000 Outback and I did not see any difference between 89 and 93 octane gas. I now just run 89 octane because there was no gian for paying the .20 cents more a gallon.

I got everything ordered and I am waiting for the parts. I can handle this one. I was just hoping someone know an easy way to remove the seal.

Well it was a cam seal. Is there any easy way to remove the seal?

I have a pretty good oil leak and I have read here that it is probably the oil pump o-ring, but I can only find a "Front Crank Seal" and not an o-ring. It is located in the oil pump though. Is this the same part? Also, I am at 84,000 miles. What else would you recommend I service while doing the seal/o-ring repair? I was planning on the timing belt and cam seals, but was not sure of the water pump, thermostat, tenision pullies, etc. Thanks

Thanks, I will try again.

How in the heck do you flip the rear seat bottom up so that the seat back will fold down flat? There seems to be a latch holding the seat from flipping up, but I cannot find anyway to release it. Thanks

Well, I replaced the coolant temp sensor and seems to have fixed the problem. It has been okay for a couple days now. Thanks for all the help.

I have the stock size of 225/60R16 (26.63" OD x 8.86" Wide) and was only looking for a little bit bigger. I think the gap between the tire and the bottom/sides of the fenders is what will limit me. There is not much room maybe 2" at most, so that will limit be to a max OD of probly 30". I was just not sure if there were others areas of concern. I was only think of a mild 1" to 2" of lift. just something to make it non-stock and look a little different. Thanks for all the info.

I was curious as to what is out there in regards to lifting my Outback. Is it common, odd, easy, painful, expensive, cheap? Also what is the biggest tire I can run at stock height with the stock 16" wheels? Are the wheels 6" wide? I'm not planning on getting anything soon, just curious. Thanks

I have a 2000 Outback Wagon and was wanting to know what the gear ratios were for the trans and diffs. It is a 5-speed. Any help would be cool.

I had the defrost running. Is there an easy way to check the sensor? It should just be a variable resistor. What would be the cold ohm value and a hot ohm value? I checked and Autozone also has the sensor for $20 also.

It finally frosted again and my weird noise came back also. It must be the roof rack. I did not have time to move anything though to see what it might be exactly.

Well I do not think it is the IAC. I pulled the wires off during high idle and it dropped down to normal warm idel of 800 RPM. However, I did notice something else today. I went out and started my subie (big frost this morning) and was letting it idle. It did not idle extra fast as usual just around 1700RPM. I had to take the trash out and when I walked back past the car the radiator fan was runnning. I looked at the temp gauge and it had barely moved. Does the coolant temp sensor control the fan? Is it normal for the fan to run for a few seconds at a time when the motor is cold? The fan kick on an off a couple times and only ran for about 4-5 secs each time. The temp gauge seems to work okay. Does it get it's signal from the coolant sensor or does it have it's own sensor? Thanks for all the help.

Well, I think it is getting worse. Today the idel was very irradict even after warm up. It will idle steady for a little while then jump up a couple hunderd then drop to about 500 RPM and back up tp 900 RPM. It even was climbing up 2800 RPM after driving 15 miles at 65+mph. What ever it is maybe it will trip a code soon. Thanks for all the info. Is there any way to test the IAC? Everything seems to keep point at it.

What the heck is all that stuff attached to the air intake tube? I have never seen anything like it. I changed my plugs and I took it all off and was amazed at it all. Does it help or hurt if you remove all of it and just suck air thru the side of the box?

Well I reset the ECU and it did not do anything. I am still getting high idles when cold. It still gets to 2900 RPM as before. Could the throttle body itself need a cleaning?

I assume removing the negative battery cable works. Is there any certain amount of time?

I removed the IAC and sprayed it with Gumout Choke & Carb Cleaner and worked it with a screw driver. I let it dry before reinstalling. I did not drive it today, but I did start it this morning. It went straight to 2900 RPM for about 3 secs and then dropped to 1800 RPM. I gassed it a couple times and it stayed at 1800 RPM idle. It did not climb as it has been. This is different from what it has been doing. I am going to see if it does the same tomorrow. My wife did drive it last night after I cleaned the IAC, so I do not think the few secs of 2900 RPM idle were do to left over cleaner in the IAC.

I took off the IAC and cleaned it. It did not look or seem carboned enough to cause any problems. It was not a plunger type though. It was a roller type? It was right on top the of the throttle body. I will see in the morning if it helped any.

I thought that was high. I do idle about 700-800 RPM after warm up. It just cold starts that are a problem. The TPS was not adjustable. The screw holes were not slotted. It just went on and would not rotate. I assumed it was different from the ones referred to in TPS posts I found here. I will check the cable to see if it is sticking or dragging. I did not think about the IAC. I will look at it next. Is there anything I should do or know before pulling it off? Tests? Thanks for the help!

What RPM is normal for the high speed idle? Mine starts around 1800 RPM and if you gas it or take off driving it climbs up to 2600 to 3000 RPM. It seems pretty high and makes it a little tricky to drive unitl it warms up (2-3 mins). I did replaced the TPS last week. Before that it would go to 3000 RPM as soon as it was started cold and then it would drop to normal after a few minutes. The old TPS had an overall lower resistance than the new one if I remeber correctly, but it did not have any bad or dead spots. Any suggestions?

My noise must of had something to do with the frost or cold because the noise was not there on the way home from work. I am sure it was a noise from wind, but it did sound concerning. It should be frosting again soon and I will see if it does it again. If so I will try moving the cross bars on the roof rack.

My outback started doing what sounds like the same thing. It is a constant whirl noise that changes with speed. I did notice that it changed when I got behind a semi truck on the 4-lane. It becoame intermentent. There was a big frost this morning and I am wonder if that was enough to make some kind a whistle effect with the roof rack. I am going to see if it does it on the way home today.

I am a proud new owner of a 2000 Leagacy Outback Wagon. I really like the car so far. I have had to service it already though. The TPS kinda went bad. It was still working, but the resistance was low. It idles and runs much better with the new TPS installed. The only bad thing was the $100 for the sensor. I have been scanning the board and it looks pretty good. I found a good message board for Jeeps when I bought my Wrangler and learned tons about it and I plan to do the same with my Outback. Couple Questions 1. Service Manual? I am having a hard time finding one for my Outback. Any suggestions? 2. Any special service things I should know about? 3. Any cheap or easy mods I should consider doing? Thanks