SubaruImpreza_Power

Said By Ed... If this isn't in the archives, it should be: Remove the cotter pin in the axle nut while the car is still on the ground and "break" the nut loose with the 36mm socket and a long breaker bar. Remove the wheel after jacking the car up (wheel chocks and jackstands are VERY important here). Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift-tool from the UNBEVELED hole and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to). Pull the DOJ away from the transmission; it should move freely now but won't quite come off. Tug on the wheel hub and pull on the DOJ and often it will pop off the stub axle. If not, loosen the nuts at the top of the strut tower a bit (don't take them off!) and/or pry the lower pivot arm away from its support with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small hammer will help get the spring washer out). Now the trick is to get the spindle out of the hub. Either get a large gear puller (6 or 7 inch version) or a sledge hammer and a block of wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (MAKE SURE THE BLOCK OF WOOD IS THERE to prevent damaging the threads--hard to get your core charge back if the threads are bunged). You might need to use your drift and a smaller sledge and pound the spindle out the last inch or so via the small hole in the end. Now carefully remove the axle from the car. Installation is the reverse of removal. Feed the spindle into the hub first; once you get the nut started on the spindle you can use two screwdrivers to pry the spindle out of the hub. I have a number of large washers that I use for spacers to help that along. In really difficult cases I remove the four bolts holding the outer portion of the hub and put the hub aside to give me more purchase on the end of the spindle. Once you have the spindle through the hub reinstall the washers and castle nut and tighten (not completely yet). Now re-install the DOJ (line up the splines first and note that the splines only line up one way--one hole has a tooth in the center and the other has a groove in the center). Tugging on the hub you should be able to slide the DOJ back onto the stub axle again. Line up the holes and knock the spring pin back into the BEVELLED hole. Put the pivot bolt back into the lower arm and tighten. Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut, replace the wheel and drop the car back on the ground and tighten the castle nut to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more--more is better and won't hurt anything). Torque the wheel lugs to 75 ft-lbs replace the cotter pin in the castle nut and you're done. Retorque the lugnuts after 300 miles again and check the castle nut for tightness (yes they can loosen up--I'll explain the mystery of that some other time if you ask nicely). Start to finish takes less than 45 minutes unless you run into a snag. Thanks to Andy and Skip, the trick of removing the swaybar clamp is definitely less work than loosening the strut tower nuts and certainly is easier to remove the DOJ from the stub axle this way. Hey Ed, Is this the same way for a 95 Impreza L? When you guys say tapping on the Inner axel Where are you tapping at? on the inner axel it's self? Im confused with the steps.. I got the taking off the wheel and all that. But what comes first? And whats this so called nut I have to take off? It seems stright forward Im lucky with the 1.8l engine I have getting to the axel wont be much of a problem.

Said By Ed... If this isn't in the archives, it should be: Remove the cotter pin in the axle nut while the car is still on the ground and "break" the nut loose with the 36mm socket and a long breaker bar. Remove the wheel after jacking the car up (wheel chocks and jackstands are VERY important here). Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift-tool from the UNBEVELED hole and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to). Pull the DOJ away from the transmission; it should move freely now but won't quite come off. Tug on the wheel hub and pull on the DOJ and often it will pop off the stub axle. If not, loosen the nuts at the top of the strut tower a bit (don't take them off!) and/or pry the lower pivot arm away from its support with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small hammer will help get the spring washer out). Now the trick is to get the spindle out of the hub. Either get a large gear puller (6 or 7 inch version) or a sledge hammer and a block of wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (MAKE SURE THE BLOCK OF WOOD IS THERE to prevent damaging the threads--hard to get your core charge back if the threads are bunged). You might need to use your drift and a smaller sledge and pound the spindle out the last inch or so via the small hole in the end. Now carefully remove the axle from the car. Installation is the reverse of removal. Feed the spindle into the hub first; once you get the nut started on the spindle you can use two screwdrivers to pry the spindle out of the hub. I have a number of large washers that I use for spacers to help that along. In really difficult cases I remove the four bolts holding the outer portion of the hub and put the hub aside to give me more purchase on the end of the spindle. Once you have the spindle through the hub reinstall the washers and castle nut and tighten (not completely yet). Now re-install the DOJ (line up the splines first and note that the splines only line up one way--one hole has a tooth in the center and the other has a groove in the center). Tugging on the hub you should be able to slide the DOJ back onto the stub axle again. Line up the holes and knock the spring pin back into the BEVELLED hole. Put the pivot bolt back into the lower arm and tighten. Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut, replace the wheel and drop the car back on the ground and tighten the castle nut to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more--more is better and won't hurt anything). Torque the wheel lugs to 75 ft-lbs replace the cotter pin in the castle nut and you're done. Retorque the lugnuts after 300 miles again and check the castle nut for tightness (yes they can loosen up--I'll explain the mystery of that some other time if you ask nicely). Start to finish takes less than 45 minutes unless you run into a snag. Thanks to Andy and Skip, the trick of removing the swaybar clamp is definitely less work than loosening the strut tower nuts and certainly is easier to remove the DOJ from the stub axle this way. Hey Ed, Is this the same way for a 95 Impreza L? When you guys say tapping on the Inner axel Where are you tapping at? on the inner axel it's self? Im confused with the steps.. I got the taking off the wheel and all that. But what comes first? And whats this so called nut I have to take off? It seems stright forward Im lucky with the 1.8l engine I have getting to the axel wont be much of a problem.

I thought the knuckle part was the part on the Cv joint were the boot was.. To make sure I get this right.. 1. you losen the lug nuts on the wheel 2. take the wheel off then take the rotor off?? 3.pull the axel out of the hub then I guess you wack the inner axel a few times and it pops off? Sounds a bit too easy :eh: it's a bit too late to go outside now 1:40Am but I will inspect it more when it's day out.. And the tool you used.. What was it called?

Here is a view thats not so close

Here is a picture...

/me shudders... Ok I have a 1995 Impreza L that needs a new Cv joint.. How the heck to you take it out of the transmission? And better yet How do you disconnect it from the rotor? If it's not too big of a job I can do it myself im 18 btw and also the car has 129K miles on it.

Now I know where the sound is from.. I heard the sound about 3 months ago.. It does not click each time you turn so it must be a new tear.. But I saw the crack.. my question is The Cv joints Are they easy to remove from the transmission/transaxel? I want to avoid the cost of a labor charge. The joints arent thats much money but having to pay $50 for service then $60 for labor is no fun. So I was wonder if anyone here has changed their and could give a little guide on how to remove it from the transmission and from the wheel area.. And my Car a 1995 Impreza L with 129K miles on it I guess I should get 2 new Cv joints?

You can blame SOA for a litle but of that.. Subaru "Used" to have a Baja tv commerial on tv.. I only seen it twice.. It showed the Old brat then it changed into the Baja.. I really really thinking about writing a letter to SOA They are trying to fit all the cars in one short Tv ad.. Guess how many times I seen the turbo Forester on tv... ONCE! it was a black one with Lance it in.. And The new Body Forester with the Dog in the commerical last year I only seen that one twice before that Commerical was gone.. But I seen the WRX Some 25 times at least from last year to this year..

I seen people jelous period over the "Subaru" name.. I had one guy.. I dunno what he was trying to prove but I just got a 98 Forester not more then 5 months ago everyone in the thread was congulations and what not.. He comes in their saying "congrads on owning the number 2 lesbian car" Not only did he look out of place but he can't be no more then 22 years old.. I think he owns a Chevy.. It's also funny when they have a "Post your picture thread" He never shows it.. Must be some pimply teen mad cuz he can't get a Subaru. What a lame way And on his website he changed stuff around to try and make me look bad.. HAHAHA So while he is doing that Im out fun driving the Subaru! And his other Possise said I would of been better off with a Chevy Lumina <----ugly rump roast car PERIOD and I don't trust anything other then Subaru in long lasting engines

I have a 95 Impreza L with AT and 129K miles on it.. Tough car. I got it used ar 128K miles for a little less then $3,000. I still take it to the redline with no problems

I guess thats why I could not find a impreza one

The Avalanche... So much plastic.. I would take a Subaru Anyday over that ugly thing. But of course I have a love for Subaru's

here is a new one.. I once got the oil changed at Express Way in Norwalk.. After the guy changed the oil he said the Radiator fluid needed to be filled up (Just got the car like 4 days ago 98 Forester) We we was talking to the person that was out in the front because he did not know what it ment when the fluid was low.. Then he goes as ask me if i wanted to change the PCV valve I was like No sir don't need you to touch that.. Anyway Having said that I got the PCV thing replaced by my self Then comes along oil change 2.. Another Express way.. You know how they like to change your Air Press. without telling you.. Well idiot changed them all to 32 psi.. (more on this later) Ok oil was changed and they wanted me to used this oil cleaner stuff so I said ok (did I say the right thing?) Then the guy that changed the oil he said "ummm Subaru's says that the Differintal.. (he forgot the word and I had to say it for him) He said yeah that needs to be changed after a cerent amount of miles. He asked if I wanted it to replaced... I gave a firm NO.. And about those tires.. Which btw the bill came to $83 or so... I took a first turn at a speed under 25Mph.. EVERYONE was looking at me like I was nuts and doing 80mph and the back end felt loose and squirly.. So I took it to a free air place and put in the right amount on the door seal and no more problems.