j.szigi

Hey, I will stop on in one of these evenings, lost the phone # when the cell got smashed at work. Ironic, 2 different times I have experienced timing belt failure and each time it has fallen on a WCSS weekend, then there was the s-10/white H/B scenario. Anyways, I will make it a point to come by. John 206-769-7356

upon further research and using the search option i have found more info stating that the culprit is the alternator. i suspect it must be the voltage regulator part of the alternator because it tests out a 2nd time just fine, as far as load tests go at shucks. it sounds as if the internal voltage regulator is hard to swap out, so if i understand correctly i'm forced to buy another alternator? from one post it stated that the alternators are interchangeable, is this true? thanks j.sz.

hmmm, had a post about an electrical issue but appears as if i'm a little rusty posting these days and i must have deleted it by mistake. thanks rob for the quick reply. so, you think the car running, then charge light coming on and staying on under rpms of less3500, and then lights dimming, car dying, indicates bad alternator? with having installed a new battery, cleaned connections and all that other stuff, even having the alternator load tested, which it had passed just 2 weeks ago, i was thinking the problem was elsewhere. i'll get a new alternator and see how that goes. seems an easy enough to do.

1986, gl-10, digi-dash, 5spd, ea-82t. while i'm under the hood, is it better to pull the radiator to swap out the water pump or is it better to leave it all in and pull from the top? sorry, for the lame question, had to come up with something to cover my redundant electrical post that i coud not remove. thanks in advance. j.sz.

hello board! ea-82t, 5spd, 1986 gl-10, corky's (no hard feelings corky) old car. issue, while driving home tonight car died. lights dimed, charge system (idiot light) came on, as well as brake fluid light and stoplamp light. on the digi dash the parking brake pic and one other pic came on, i believe the one that indicates a light out. charge system light would not go out without rpms of 3500 or more. 2 weeks ago i had a similiar problem and was able to get around it by cleaning terminals, installing brand new battery, checking connections, taking apart starter and cleaning and reinstalling and having shucks run a load test on the alternator, which it passed. ran like a champ afterwards. tonight, after nursing the car off to the side of the road, tightening up alt. belt and checking other connections i was able to start the car right up, drive about 100 feet and lost all electrical, car would not idle and it died. while yanking it home with the truck, did not even have power to keep the hazards on. now, i'm thinking voltage regulator what does the board think? if it is the voltage reg. where is it located on the ea-82t? one last thing, the charge system light had been coming on and off in the last few days but i just passed it off as some fluke of the digi dash, apparently i was wrong and it was indicating serious problem. do the brake light indicators on the dash perhaps hint to some type of short in that area that might be drawing away amperage? thanks in advance for any input or suggestions. j.sz.

justice has been served.

i seem to recall after one very extremly long night after the sub weekend in the southend a few years back, that i had to drive the poor ole white hatch which used to be yours zap, with a welded rear-end i had installed, one axle already broken in the rear, both of the axles in the front toasted, in 4wd high, one axle remaining, drove that sucker 85 plus miles home while maintaining the speed limit. that very same unit prior to losing it's axle stub at evan's creek, made that one trail we did, you know the one where you have to climb the rock face, we those zuks where climbing all around us, well, remember that one area that i blasted through? you were still driving the green hatch then and we were in that super knarly ravine type area? anyways, i always liked the welded rear even though you could feel the rear end push you through turns or even sometimes hamper tight areas due to the back end wanting to come forward, especially in snow.

i also have an extra space saver spare from an ea-81, if there is a difference?, that would be yours free and i'm a little closer (edmonds) then qman.

i agree with zap on the dixie cup thing for it will not serve justice to any beer nor will plastic cups, yuck. back when i worked in the brewery, we taste tested every friday. on tap or via bottle, each sample was poured into a pitcher and then we poured into our pint glasses. after a few rounds, you won't even need the water to rinse with. start light and go dark.

9:30 will work for me at N-gate or at your home if the peeps don't want to show there.

a bar of soap, aka irish springs or the like is supposed to do wonders. just open it up out of the package, while gas is still leaking, just rub it on and over and over. the gas with the contents of the the soap are supposed to transform via some type of chemical reaction and form a bond that is lasting. i personally have not tried it but have simply read about it in a survival type manual for vehicles in the woods.