Subarutex

Lookin' Good! For your inclinometer and switch panel look into Dibond over Sintra/PVC. I've had the PVC warp because of the heat in a closed up car in the sun. If you don't have any dibond scraps kickin' around let me know. I'll send a piece down for the price of shipping. We have TONS laying around the shop.

I could be wrong *i'm on a panda express orange chicken and mt. dew high* but I thought the 85-86 RX sedans were part time 4wd... which would mean it will drive slightly different than a ft4wd box does. Russ, I need to see pics.

Was it where the oncoming traffic (coming up that hill) have a stop sign? Also... Russ's car is an RX by look, not neccasarily by anythng else. I doubt it has an LSD. Everybody knows that to best defeat guardrails is to be already sideways entering the corner. Also, if you had a turbo, and some balls, you might have been able to gas out of it. (i've done it on that corner I talked about above)

Which corner! Inquirying minds want to know. Also, in most cases, I'm glad there are guardrails... or else you could end up in a tree.

Got the call back. They can't get the Fel-Pro's. But, like I said. The Stone and other brand i've gotten from them have always worked out great!

Just called... they don't think they can get it I guess. But he was going to do some checking and call me back. However the normal gaskets they get i've never had a problem with.

Call Bow Wow autoparts in Lynnwood. Phone Number is: 425-771-6411 They should be able to get you some. Tell them Tex sent you!

I found with the more new parts, the more the car rejects them. They especially don't like new blocks, cams, or fancy head gaskets! I MAY have a headlight i'd be willing to get rid of. Should be decent condition. I might also have a set of headlights modded with strobes :cool: PM me if you are interested.

Ok, talked to my buddy... He says its easy to get the rocker made up and welded in. I think i'm good now, just need to get it done!

How long ago was that... and who did you sell it to?? That looks eerily like my brat!

Well, the way I figure it... I got the Brat for free. So really, as long as I don't spend heaps on it, i'm not really out anything. Maybe we will just have to cut it up for a trailer... Or maybe to graft into the back of a Merkur. I'm hoping it will end up looking good like 88hatchmonsters:

Zap... You're the best! Unfortunately, I don't have the scratch to pick up another car... even if its just for parts. I'm talking with my welding buddy tonight, see if he can come through on the reproduction pieces made from the rocker pieces I grabbed at PAP. And, most of the brat is already gone... The engine and transmission live on in Markjw's rig. Edrach has the seats. I was in the process of parting this baby out till in my heart I felt something just not right. Luckily I have been able to stash the Brat in a garage, with some nice work area, so atleast i'm not having to move it in and out all the time. It is reassuring to hear people say... oh, thats not too bad at all. That really gives me hope. Thanks! On a brighter note... which iteration of an EJ would you put in a Brat? 2.2 or 2.5 NA? 2.0, 2.2, 2.5 Turbo?

A simple story of typical neglect, in pictures! This is why my buddy was able to buy the brat for $700 3-4 years ago. Its also why his wife made him get rid of it for free to ME. That was a year, almost 2 ago. I've driven it, i've beat on it, and i've parted it out. However, since I went with my buddy to pick it up, I've known this Brat. I've been attached to it. And, when it became mine, I new that this was my brat.. the one I've wanted. So, IF and only IF I can fix this rocker panel, will I put her back together. Mostly as I see fit, with more power than is necassary, larger wheels than anybody should put on a brat, and no... It won't see mud. So... What say YOU? Do you think its fixable? How much would you spend to fix something like this? Right now, I'm tackling this project on 2 fronts. I have about 12" of rocker panel out of a EA81 wagon that my buddy is going to try and use to make a new 48" long piece. He's a master welder, and damn good fabricator, so we'll see what he comes up with. The other option, to not put all my eggs in one basket, is getting a rocker from Monstaru, cut off his Brat he's parting out. So, I guess only time will tell!

^^^^ Trust this man. Also... I could be talked out of a tan brat carpet set... Let me know if you are interested.

I would use one of these type of adapters on your radiator hose: http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=water+temp+hose&category0= I haven't personally ran one these... however I do have a couple buddies that have them, and they work great.

Actually Skip, I've taken the time to read it... Long before it was posted here. But thanks for that, bud. Also, keep in mind that NOBODY here has disagreed with any of the reasons NOT to do this. WE all know in doing this we take on certain risks. The same risks we take when we lift our vehicles (illegally), modify our exhausts (illegally), etc... Ever see those lifted to hell dodges, chevy's, fords, etc... that haven't reaimed their headlights? Always shooting right into your eyes when you drive by them. Got that in your mind? Can you picture it? OK, now reduce the glare by 75%. Thats about the same impact our "HID KITS" have on oncomming drivers. Its actually LESS than driving by someone that left their Hi beams on. So, basically all I'm saying is we've weighed the consequences, and decided to take the risk. Keep in mind, that it would be an entirely different subject if we were taking about "aftermarket" RHD lamps and such. I think people tend to get these confused.

IMHO there is nothing wrong with cheap parts... so long as you understand what you are getting into. Clutches in my eye are difficult to figure out. You want enough to hold 99% of the time, but you don't want one that is too aggressive, as that could lead to things like stripping gears. I always think of a clutch as the "fusible link" in my power to the ground system.

Zap, even on my wagon with no t-tops I get tons of glare from my roof mounted lights. The glare was OK for crawling, slow running, but once you started really driving, it got pretty distracting for me. Especially since my mount vibrates a touch, so I could see the lights bouncing about. The solution are these: http://www.kchilites.com/store/Glare-Shields-Blackbr-7302-P600C121.aspx I found a set on ebay for $15... they worked great, but somebody stole them one of the times I had my car broken into.

Well, i've always heard and experienced that puck style clutchs (like the one you linked too) are pretty aggressive in their bite. Atleast that one appears to be sprung, making it a bit gentler. It could be that the "smoothness" was actually the clutch breaking it... or it could be that something is fouled up with the sprung part of the clutch now, making it engage alot more harshly. I would reccomend a clutch from a quality supplier, like Exedy, such as this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exedy-Racing-Clutch-91-94-2-2L-Subaru-Legacy-Turbo_W0QQitemZ8046314082QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item8046314082 More info: http://www.exedyusa.com/race/

Having cam timing off a tooth will also give similar symptoms to this... Also check firing order, and fuel!

Nice!

Looks great Zap!! Can't wait to see it with some fresh paint.

Read. Comprehend. Post. Carfreak... The light output will indeed be better, I'd say dramatically. You will enjoy them, and be the envy of your friends. Also, for those with deep pockets, i found these: http://www.suvlights.com/product_info.php?products_id=268&osCsid=c5f9202df362e797702228fe042b724b Not as bad of a price as I was expecting... Maybe if my brat ever gets back on the road I'll do something like this. Unfortunately, the nifty composite lamps the EA82's have make real projector HID's a $$$ DIY experiment. Speaking of my brat... When you are serious about making some duplicates of the Kamei lip, lets talk!

I don't have any pics of my setup... I'll work on remeding that. The wiring for my setup was easy! Since it was a BiXenon kit, it came with its own relay setup... so I basically connected it to power, ground, one of my old headlight plugs to act as the switch... and BOOM! Hi/Lo lights! However, my one complaint with Subaru's negative switched headlight system is that my car thinks its in Hi beams for the HID setup to be on regular, and vice versa. This is do to the kit being designed to work with a postive switched system, verses a negative switched. I plan on fixing this when I get some free time... hopefully. The wiring on my wife's car has been a bigger pain, mainly cause i've had to build the harness from scratch, using my own relays and such. Again, the negative switched headlights really get me all turned around.