Subarutex

Galen, You've opened a huge can of worms... and just like Suberdave before you, you will probably regret it. But, its ok... I'm going to take a moment and try and speak on behalf of all of us, the few that don't mind bending the rules. First, lets talk terminology. HID KIT usually refers to a setup of the required ballast, wiring, and rebased HID bulbs for use in 9004, 9007, H4, H1, etc... lights. HID RETROFIT usually refers to taking OEM HID components (projector housing, ballast, D2 HID bulb) and fitting in another headlight... such as the EA82 composite head lights. OEM HID headlights use a projector housing (such as this acura TSX http://faqlight.carpassion.info/images/2003-acura-tsx-projector-sizes.jpg) to accurately aim the light, and give a crisp cutoff line (good example of a cutoff http://www.haknslash.com/pictures/HID/fritenitesretro/P1010004.JPG) OEM HID's can appear to "flash" people ahead of you, or oncoming traffic as the sharp cutoff line moves around when the car goes over bumps and such in the road. A lot of people are annoyed by this, and assume that they are not factory lights... when in fact they are! Some manufactures have started to put in leveling and stabilization systems to try and stop this. HID bulbs come in different temperatures. The temp indicates the color and brightness of the light. Temps vary from place to place, but commonly they are 4300k, 6000k, 8000k, 1000k, 12000k, and 2500k. 4300K and 6000K are the typical OEM temps. 4300K is pretty white, 6000K is white with a slight hint of blue. 8000K+ are way blue... 2500K is purple. Now... The best way to put HID's on your ride is to do a HID RETROFIT. However, you are looking at quite a large amount of money, perhaps more than your car was bought for. WRX people usually spend around ~$1000 for a quality setup. http://lightwerkz.net/ is a good company that does these retrofits. The typical way all of us are going to get the HID lights in our cars is to use an HID KIT. The HID kit is exactly like putting a very high powered bulb (80w/100w +) into your headlight. HID setups come with some different options... either 35w or 55w ballasts (35w is the common one). You can also get "Bi-Xenon" bulbs which move the bulb in the housing to replicate the affect of having a dual filament bulb (like a stock 9004). Running this kind of HID setup will yeild less light output than an OEM installation, but it is still a dramatic improvement over even Silverstar light bulbs. Personally, I run 2 HID KITS in 2 different vehicles. My Ultimate RX has a 9004 "Bi-Xenon" setup from http://stores.ebay.com/THE-KING-OF-HID . The Bi-Xenon system works by retracting the bulb into the base for normal operation, and letting fulling extend for HI beam operation. It thus imitates the location of the 2 filaments in a standard bulb. This setup is daily driven, and has given me no problems. I adjusted my lights down from where they were approximately a turn of the screw. I use the 6000k temp bulbs, for a nice OEM, yet slightly blue light. My wife car (2.5rs GC) runs bulbs by the above retailer w/ ballasts I picked up used locally. Her setup is a bit more unique... We traded her stock headlamps for some dual bulb Morette headlamps which have a H4 Hi/Low and a second H1 Hi bulb. I then traded out the sealed be H4's for some Hella H4 conversion lamps. In those we are running 6000K bulbs. Both configurations yield quite a bit of nice usable light, that is very relaxing on the eyes to drive with at night. Neither have had a problem with compaints of being too bright or blinding oncoming drivers. As with any light upgrade, you need to take care to aim them properly. For those that still have the need to hate, pay attention to the cars that have the lights that offend you, and make sure you aren't being "flashed" by some OEM HID's... 9/10 people this ends up being the case.

Zefy... if I recall those two wires are for the oil pressure light and the water temp light. Rad hose looks good. What kind of pipe do you have between them? I would reccomend copper, as it will last the best, and won't potentially release stuff into your cooling system. And lastly... do you think we'll see this at WCSS X?

Yeah, that car LOOOKED cherry. I was feeling pretty bad when I started cutting. Then I hit the bondo...

Dan and I cutoff some of the rocker panels off that car last Sat. Too bad we found BONDO and rust under the drivers door. I was able to get maybe 18 inches of good rocker panel from the 2 spots we cut, we'll see if thats enough.

I swapped in power door locks off of an '87 Turbo Wagon into my '86 GL wagon. There was no wiring. I basically hacked it together, running wires all over the place. For some odd reason that I don't understand the door locks system use 4 wires! That means you will lay out a crazy gridwork of 4 wires that goes back and forth between the doors. In the end, it works, but it was a pain. Its actually on my list of things to go back and redo.

Its nice to know my junky old brat helped breath life back into that gorgeous wagon. Can't wait to see it up close!

Yes, it should be possible to install it on the factory rails. If we could come up with the schematic out of the fsm I could point out where it needs to be. From what I've been told and read, you do not wnat to run 2 FPR, so you will need to replace the stock one with the RRFPR. A basic FPR or RRFPR opperates and should be hooked up like this: Is the RRFPR just an adjustable 1:1 or is it a 3:1, 5:1, etc...?

I tried to do a search for WJM's fuel system setup. I could't find it, but I did a little drawing to illustrate basically what he had done. This is how I would set the system up. I recall this to being how WJM had his setup. All the hose to the 4 injectors should be equal length. Maybe this helps?

I had a rrfpr on my old white RX. However, I was using custom fuel rails... If you could draw a quick diagram of what the stock system looks like, I could help you figure out what you need to reroute. At the moment i'm having a hard time remembering what a stock system looks like.

Wow that looks great Mark! Is that where my old brat engine ended up?

Woot! Thanks. This very well good be a nice change for my wagon...

I'd love to see pics of a EA82 wagon without the trim on it... Chux?? Could be a good cheap thing to do to change the wagon up for the upcoming show season...

Sadly looks like I have to work all the rest of this week Another missed opportunity!

Ack! anybody with a portable sawz all?

did that ea81 have a decent looking driver side rocker?

Working? Yes. Actually functioning correctly? No. The SAFC had a very limited range it could help in (due to the 10 volt maf).

I think this is a great kit. I only wish I could afford it. I have priced frieght with him in the past, and his prices seem very reasonable.

Spend the money upfront and get the STI Group N Mounts. See Baccaruda's post about different angles...

Ultimate RX Board Member: Subarutex Engine: JDM Legacy EJ20G Chassis: 1987 RX Coupe Tranny: JDM Legacy 5spd 4.11 Other: 5 lug swap, Haltech ECU, DOMtune, 3" Exhaust, 175hp/205 ftlbs Brown Beast Board Member: Subarutex Engine: '92 EJ22 Chassis: 1986 GL Wagon Tranny: EA82 D/R 5spd Other: 3" BYB/Ozified Lift, Mrose Adapter Plate, Wiring by ShawnW, OBX header, Custom Exhaust, Etc... See link for pics...

I never did get any info on to exactly what needs to be done... So I still have a STI key blank kicking around, uncut... Let me know if you figure it out.

Check it out... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Legacy-Brat-DL-GL-Addco-Front-Anti-Sway-Bar-717_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33592QQihZ019QQitemZ290182426940QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Even comes with poly bushings. They say its 1" diameter... how big is the stock one?

Looks good. What kind of vinyl? How was it installed? (dry/wet)

Ouch. Zap, looks real good. I can really understand why this Brat is the one you wanted back.

I have 2 EA82's. Both badly in need of some new panel clips. I'm looking to buy a lot of 25 or 50. Anybody know which ones are teh right ones? I've been scowering ebay with little luck...

FYI... i've bought from "The Import Experts" plenty of times off ebay. They deliver a very quality product and decent prices... and have excellent shipping and communication skills!