Subarutex

Scott, I have some EA82T pistons and block halves all cleaned up and ready to be melted if your interested in them.

First off, match the clutch to the trans, not to the engine. If you stick with the EA trans, use an XT6 flywheel and clutch setup. Its not hard to ovalize the holes in the flywheel for it to work. Or you could do what I did and talk to Baccaruda... Take into consideration that unless you find a cable pull EJ tranny (which can be tough) you'll have to swap out the clutch pedal for a hydrolic setup and then you have to worry about getting all that stuff to fit. Which doesn't seem hard, but definately takes some trouble shooting. Also remember that if you go EJ tranny, you will have to modify your drive shaft and figure out some sort of shift linkage. Just so you know, I have an EJ swapped RX with EJ trans setup and a EJ swapped GL wagon with an EA trans setup. I speak from experience. My official reccomendation though, is to do the extra work to go EJ everything.

Saw a good looking EA82, flat blacked with 4 lights across the top of the win.dshield. Car looks good! Had some stickers on the back, most notable was teh KTM one. I caught up to you in traffic, we were in my wife's silver GC 2.5rs with a carbon hood and dark tint. Not sure if you saw me throw the duece. Its very refreshing for me to see nice looking EA82's i've never seen before... cause I usually know them all. I can only hope they've already found their way here, I would have tried to stop and talk but had to hot foot it from a wedding to the reception (the reason we are in town)

Could have... but I didn't have that part. I got my shift linkage from someone who was upgrading to the STI stuff, so I didn't get the part that connected to the trans.

Ultimate RX came equipped with an EJ 5-spd transmission and a modified EA shifter assembly. Once the car ran, I knew this setup was going to have to be redone. The linkage rubbed on the drive shaft in 3rd and 5th... even after "clearancing" it for several thousand miles. One day on my way home, it broke. The "barrel" end broke off at the weld. You can see above my finger the part that was "clearanced". I made the decision to try and fit an EJ shifter assembly, mainly for the option at somepoint in the future of getting an off the shelf short shifter. I ended up getting something very similar to this of nasioc for cheap! After doing some fitting with Dan from Smart Service, we identified the 3 areas that needed modification. The most important being we needed to change the "bracket" end of the shift rod to a "barrel". However, we were able to bolt it up, bracket to bracket, so we knew the bolt hole placement was at the correct length. Reusing the broken "barrel" I had my welding buddy change out the "bracket" end. He also was able to completely remove the metal ring that retains the boot along the shift rod. Close up of the welding at the end... The smaller tube is actually sleeve all the way down to the elbow in the shift rod for strength. To make the process easier, we had made a scrap wood jig to hold the arm in place correctly in relation to the bolt hole alignment. Took us about 45 minutes to get the jig made. With that out of the way only took him about 20 minutes to TIG it all together correctly at work. Once we had the modified shift rod, I went to the task of fitting the Stay Rod. The transmission end slid on with no problems, I reused the washer plate from the existing assembly. For the other end, I was able to re-use the 2 holes in the chassis for the factory shifter, and a piece of metal strapping to bolt it all in with no drilling. Next came the easy part of bolting in the shift rod, and re-installing the shifter into the cup. I think it came out looking pretty nice. The shifter is also moved back a bit, to ease the banging of the CD player on quick 3rd or 5th gear shifts. Close, but just enough clearance around the shift rod... All back together with the factory EJ rubber boot (minus the ribbed portion that connected to the shift rod), and my Prodrive shift knob. Of course, the stock console does not go back on... the shifter is too far back. However, I plan to merge the stock console sides with an EJ style shift boot and trim ring. In the mean time I'll enjoy my shorter shifts, that don't interfere with the driveline or chassis anymore. I'll also revel in the fact that when I find a set of poly shifter bushings on sale, or a short shifter I can just "bolt it in".

EA is ************, throw an EJ box in there. Grab all the EJ linkage, I can show you how to make it look NICE.

Use a brand new METAL EA82T dual row radiator. Have the inlets and outlets changed to ones that match a legacy. I believe it was 2-1/4" Diameter straight in, and straight out (no bends like the EA82's). It cost me $40 at a old time radiator repair place to have this done. This was for my EJ22 swapped GL Wagon. I rarely have to turn my fan on, usually only in traffic. I put a small 10" fan on the forward side of the radiator (mainly for cleaner engine bay appearance). My EJ20G swapped RX (UltimateRX) has a similar setup. The outlets however are not the correct size, and have a stepper hose attached. On this car there was fitted a dual 10" fan setup (with shroud and everything) forward of the radiator. This car gets driven more, and a lot harder, so I notice it runs the fans more. However, I'm using the Haltech (Standalone engine management) to turn the fan on and off at preset temps. I opted for fairly conservative temperatures. All in all, I see no reason why a good condition EA82 Dual Row radiator can't cool an EJ series engine.

Awwww. I didn't know anybody still cared! I'll get a thread up on my current cars & mods.

It was teh CTS for the ECU

Takes 4-5 key turns to start on a good day, will start on first try if its been less than 2 hours since last run. Coolant Temp sensor was replaced less than 3,000 miles ago. Fuel filter replaced a couple hundred miles ago. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated...

He already posted the picture... The hub is the ring with studs on it, being held in by the castle nut. Rguyver, over in AUS a CrossBred Performance made a kit to put impreza brakes on EA chassis cars, in their setup they seemed to have an adapter/spacer for the backing plate. Does the backing plate seem to need that?

High performance Bosch. Similar to a Walbro 255l

I have one I got from a retired Subaru mechanic... Too bad you aren't closer, I'd let you borrow it.

YES! Especially if the rings are worn and you are getting blow by. That basically pressurizes the oil system, and forces it out interesting places. I'd unplug all three ports, and block off the PCV, and take it for a spin.

Last time was more than a year ago... However I did take it up that little hill climb at this years WCSS. The big problem is after RIPPING the front drivers side radius rod plate out multiple times offroading it just won't hold up to the abuse anymore. Even after through bolting it into the body with custom fatty washers. If I had enough motivation, I probally could re-engineer some portions, and do some welding straight to the unibody that may help... But then i'd just be out there being left behind by Toyota's. I don't want to be that guy that everyone is waiting on and making fun of, or worse... I don't want to be that guy that nobody waits for. Ultimate is no where near show quality. Reason 1 - Paint... needs a wet sand atleast, but i'm doubting it will ever be "glossy" Reason 2 - Questionable build quality (example: the shift linkage just broke where it had been cut, sleeved for extra length, and rewelded.) Reason 3 - No WOW factor. Nobody knows what the car is, most walk right by it without thinking twice. Reason 4 - 75% of the work isn't mine. I don't like taking credit for other peoples work (good or bad) and thus, have a problem really standing behind it and trying to show it off. That being said, I immensely enjoy the car for doing what I bought it for. Driving it.

Thats right. After 3 years of seriously showing my car, this weekend, I took home my first trophy (non-WCSS). At Battle of the Imports@Pacific Raceways in WA I won Best Overall Truck/SUV. Here is a pic from my first ever Hot Import Nights in 2004: Here are a shot from Driven To Perform in Vancouver, BC from earlier this year: Import Motion this year in Seattle, WA: And here's a couple from this years Hot Import Nights in Seattle, WA: And finally, here is a couple from Battle of the Imports this past weekend:

I do. Both cars are EJ20G swapped with 4:11 running gear... thats about where the similarities end.

On the KAS Mustang dyno a stock 2.0L WRX puts down 155-160hp at the wheels.

True, but we are within 10 ft.lbs of torque of eachother. You'll see on Dave's graph how his torque/HP happen late in the RPM's. Thats the stock JDM V-Limited WRX computer. Now look at mine. Torque upfront where its funnest. I need to work on switching out my turbo for something different. Mine really doesn't have a topend. My car is running a Haltech E6K and has been professionally tuned by http://www.getadomtune.com Dave - Check out getting a Hydra from Dom. I think it would be a much better fit to your plans than a powerFC. Regardless of which you go with, talk to Dom about tuning it. He is a goldmine of information.

Sorry it took so long...

175hp @ 5300 RPM 198 ft/lbs @ 3500 RPM Ran the quarter in ~13.5 I'll get the graphs posted in a bit...

Nice work Chux... Thanks for the pics and explanation.

The sign shop I work for is looking for a new production person. Pay is roughly $10+/hr depending on experience. Will train the right person. You'll be weeding vinyl, operating power tools, assembling signs, going on off-site installs, etc... Call the shop 8-6 M-F 425-672-3706 PM me or call the number for directions to come fill out an application.

I think I have some blue spray paint kicking around....

The results will be posted... I promise!