Subarutex

Hey Look! Its theory and speculation! Basically, think of the transmission as having 2 pieces: Piece 1 being the front diff/5speed area; Piece 2 is everything behind that D/R, center diff or straight rear output. Why wouldn't the pinion gear be the same? My reasoning is from the different variations of these trannys. 3.9 5spd d/r 3.9 5spd pushbutton 3.9 5spd FT4WD w/ diff lock 3.7 5spd pushbutton 3.7 5spd FT4WD w/ diff lock 3.7 5spd FT4WD D/R w/ diff lock Now... with what we know about how cookie cutter these cars are (Phizina's swap for example) why would the output portion of the tranny change between all these variables? It seems for cost reasons, they'd keep as much alike in these trannies as they could. So in theory you could remove the back half of any of these transmission and mate it with the fronts. Sounds so simple right? Right. Of course, its never as easy as it sounds, but thats why someone needs to try it. Also, FYI - I'm not out to put together some Ultimate Gearbox that ShawnW, NoahDL88, and all those people are clamoring for. I don't need 4.11 gears in my wagon (my RX has them), I don't need NA D/R gearing (who offroads subaru's anymore?). I do need FT4WD w/ the ability to lock it up if I want. EJ22 on 28" swampers makes it hard to get up damp hilly streets in FWD. Keeping it 3.9 just means I don't have to swap my rear diff, and lose my welds. And, if my plan doesn't work... I'll just throw in an RX box, weld up a 3.7 rear and call it good. Ready.... Set.... Argue!

I'm sorry, I disagree GD. I believe it to be workable. I just wanted to get all the pieces and have a running example before posting a thread so we can all speculate about it. Galen, I'm rather offended you brought this here. A simple yes i'll sell you the broken tranny, or no I won't would have been enough. I was hoping to use my old RX tranny that Galen now has that has a borked shift rod. Because then if this doesn't work, I won't be dissassembling and potentially ruining a perfectly good, rare, RX trans.

Ultimate is closing in on a thousand... My wagon... maybe 1 mile, and thats being generous

Been there, done that, I feel retarded just walking in there... Radioshack is much more my speed

radioshack has 250 ohm resistors... would that suffice?

I have my haltech set to keep the temp between 185 and 205 on my EJ20G.

Do you recall what tap you used?>??

I need a wiring diagram to hook this thing up. Mine is straight up JDM, and I can't read JDM. Help this brotha out. Peace.

Simply put... about $500 and some time. Fuel rails were custom made by me, from some stock I found on the net (had to buy 24" of it)... Think this was about $40 shipped $100 for a decent rising rate fuel pressure regulator (i got mine used, new it would be $150) Several feet of that damn braided hose, and then all the different fittings... adds up very very very quickly. And, in the end... I'm not 100% it was worth it. Definately had the bling factor though.

My old RX has this setup... pics can be seen here: http://www.subarutex.com/gallery/v/RX/ I'll see if I can dig up pics before I went to the new sytle manifold...

Keep me updated... Although my thought was going more the cryotreating route... SHould be a bit cheaper, especially if we could organize a group.

I'll grab a pic of the one on the wagon today when I get a chance.

I've done it on 2 of my EA82's, and about to do it on my 3rd. My wagon one was twisted all to hell because of taking it offroad and the welded diff. My first RX needed one because thats the weak point of the car when you launch it. Unfortunately both mine were bent so bad I had to start with a piece from PAP before reinforcing it. Basically by running box or angle metal down the back of the diff hanger you increase the torsional rigidity, and it will help keep the diff from twisting. I am a firm believer in this being the #1 reason I have not broken a rear axle with my welded diff. In the next week or so, I will be building one of these for Ultimate, it also looks like I'll be building one for Noah as well. Anybody else interested in one? Cost would be $50 + $10 core charge.

The picture you have in your post has NOTHING to do with the problems you are talking about. I suggest you remove it and save this board some bandwidth. Simple steps to happy windshield wipers. 1.Wash window with a spray foam window wash (available at Walmart, costco, etc...) 2.Clay bar the windshield (this removes surface inperfections) 3.Wash window again with spray foam window wash 4.Use a rubber restorer/cleaner and wipe down blades (not armor-all, Meguiars makes a good product) These steps will lead you to find a perfectly wiping window, with no need to increase the pressure on the wipers. By reducing the friction involved, it allows the motor easier work. Interesting facts about clay bar, rain-x, and your windshield. Your windshield is assaulted by millions of little particles. Eventually, these particles start to find "edges" in the glass to hold to, and begin to build up on the window. Once the surface of the window starts building up with these "particles" it becomes less and less smooth, thus requiring more effort for fluid to flow over it. You'll notice at this point that your window wipers begin to lose effectiveness. Rain-X is a genius solution to this problem. It basically creates a new smooth layer on your glass, so the water doesn't have to fight these particles to get off the window. Problem, after 2-3 months this layer starts to fog up. That is because it is a bandaid to the problem, and does not eliminate the problem. Clay bars are used on paint jobs to remove particles from the surface. Use a bar on your window will do the same thing. It removes the offending, water slowing particles from the window. Giving you back your nice smooth glass for which your wipers can effortlessly glide across. This leads to the conclusion that if cared for properly, wiper blades should almost never need replacing, and that it is yet again another industry just out to get our money. Also, coming in 2010, Toyota plans to start fitting their higher end models with Ion producing canons (much like deer horns) that will projected a wave of ionized air infront of the car as a particle deterrent system. If these succeed in real life as well as the science lab, by 2015 there will be no need for the ancient claybar... as the particles it was born to remove, aren't even getting to the car its supposed to remove them from. Only time will tell when the ULTIMATE solution is born, and we are able to eliminate the particles from our air once and for all. Cliff Notes: Sell your stock in companies that produce Clay Bars. The end is coming!!1

Uhhh... I know this is stupid, but read this story. So, for some reason Me and Dan were led to believe we had some brand new GR-2's for mid 90's legacy. Probally OBS. We tried them on Dan's wagon, and couldn't get it together... the strut was too long. Dan sold them to Ken, and he tried to put them on the front of his XT6 rally car. DIdn't fit, was just a bit too tall. A month later, after a significant amount of sluething, Ken calls me and tells me they were REAR struts. I remember you picked up all 4 struts from the guy... make sure you have the shorter of them on the car. The control arms are xt6 correct? Didn't I give you knew radius rod bushings? Are those on? Oh... and are the strut lift blocks back on the right orientation?

I have 2 swapped cars. USDM '94 EJ22 in the brown wagon and JDM '94 EJ20G in a blue 3dr RX

Kenny... You did a OBDII swap in one loyale. Its going to be the same amount of work to do a turbo motor, and going into the older body style, the wiring will be the same amount of work. Whether its USDM or JDM. I think JDM swaps are great, till you get tired of being stock. Then what do you do for engine management? Yes, there are options for the JDM engines, but they are not widely supported over here. However, if you use a USDM motor, wiring, etc... You can plug and play from the vast aftermarket they have. Engine management? Sure! Utec, AccessPort, Hydra. And, there is the knowledge base and expertise to get these tuned and easier support when the problems come up. My swapped car had a JDM motor, but its being run by a complete standalone computer (haltech e6k). I got the car not running, and it has been just short of a complete PITA to get running and driving. But it goes good now. I had the option of throwing the stock JDM ECU on, and reconstructing the wiring harness... but i knew I had plans for this car. And that I wouldn't be satisfied with it being stock. Thus, i've put int he extra effort and money to make the standalone work. Soon just about all my little drivability quirks will be worked out, and then I can start thinking about power. I don't want to be too hopeful with my overall goals, so i'm waiting till my first "baseline" dyno till I get serious about setting them. Depending on those results... my 280whp ideas may or may not be realistic. Of course... I'd settle for 300whp Also, I'm having a wicked time figuring out whats killing my battery in my EJ22 swapped wagon... any input PM me.

If you want to keep in on the downlow, hit me up with a PM and I'll see what I can find out.

Glad I saw this so I could update. I pulled the wiper control box, and multifunction switch out of a GL-10. Got home, put the mulitifunction switch in. Wipers wouldn't do variable intermittent, nor would they park. Then i remembered the wiper control box, and after hunting around for the plug, I plugged that in. Turns out a previous owner had unplugged it. And bingo, my wipers park again, and they do variable intermittent. I'm pretty sure I just added about $100 to the value of the car. Recap: Wipers started parking after plugging in Wiper control box (located on access panel under steering column). I made NO change to the motor.

I've figured out that there is a box with a blue connector under the steering column (usually attached the access panel) that makes the wipers work correctly. My car was missing this box, and they would never park themselves. When I swapped in my variable intermittent multifunction switch, I also put this box back in. Works like a charm now.

I would go OEM computer all the way... Of course I'd go with a USDM engine/ecu combo, that way I can plug and play AP's, Utecs, Hydra's, whateva!

Your alarm will probally hook up to a Universal 2 wire actuator. In my wagon, I added a actuator to the drivers door, then wired that to the alarm. The alarm activates the actuator, which locks the drivers door lock. That in turn makes the factory door lock system lock. Here is a link illustrating what the actuator looks like, and some sample ways of mounting it in different cars http://www.a1electric.com/door_locks.htm A word to teh wise... be patient, and test it thoroughly before putting the door panel back on.

OP - My GL wagon was used for years as a toad behind my Grandparents RV. Aside from the pretty stout bumper/hitching stuff that was added only a couple small things were done when pulling it. First, make sure the 4wd selector is all the way down in FWD. Second, make sure the stick is in neutral. Third, place a key in the ignition and turn it to position that first unlocks the steering wheel. Its either Acc, or On. If it is the ON position, do pay attention to anything that is left on, and could cause a drain on the system. I've towed my car lifted, behind a chevy pickup truck... and it still tows great. Heck, you hardly know its there! I would reccomend having the hitching assembly stuff done professionally... if you PM me I can get you some pics of whats on my car. Also, the same professionals that put the hitch on, wired the car for turn signals/brake lights/running lights. These worked flawlessly except for one thing... When the car wasn't plugged into the tow vehicle, the STOP LAMP illuminates on the dash. This is because the circuit has been extended, and appears OPEN, and triggers the dash light. I've since stripped this wiring out of the car, but I still occasionally get the STOP LAMP illuminating at weird times. IE, sometimes just when braking, sometimes on all the time, sometimes not at all. I've just learned to deal with it.

I run my wagon welded, and seldom have the motivation to remove an axle. I've broken nothing. And, i don't drive it any differently. U turns, tight turns into parkins spots, etc...

While I REALLY like the hatch idea, it won't be too unique for long. I know another board member that has a hatch, an EJ turbo clip, and well... some Subaru 4wd vinyl I just made. I'd look at doing an xt6 or wagon with the H6 3.0 in it. NA ftw.