Subarutex

Connectors will be different, engine harness's will be different, ecu's will be different, carside harness's will be different. 86 is different from 87, is different from 88+ Recently, I needed to find an engine harness's for my 87.5 RX. I thought any harness 87+ would work. Turns out, I was wrong. In most RX's (87.5) the engine harness to main body connectors had one square, and one round. On my roomates 88 turbo wagon, he had 2 rounds. I got a manifold off of a turbo wagon, I believe an 87, and it had 2 rounds aswell. I finally was able to find a harness off of another RX, and its just perfect.

Ed, I saw you going northbound on 44th, right at 196th at about 5:10pm today. I was just getting off work, and turning out of my parking lot.

Yes, he probally does. But assumptions make an a$$ of U and Me.

Ed... If you get a chance, I need an ignitor from a legacy... any one should do. Just to be safe, grab the bracket too. Small black box on the firewall, middle of the engine bay, has a large plug like a MAF.

The parts guys at the dealer won't bite, just don't walk near the sales guys. I jsut thought of this... is there a pitch rod connected between the back of teh engine and the firewall? If your spare tire is in the stock position, it should be under there. If that isn't connected, you will feel more vibration from the engine and trans.

I believe you mean Cam Timing, not Tam Timing. Did your mechanic do any dis-assembly to the engine when he swapped the transmission? I think the answer would be NO, and in that case, the answer to your questions is NO. If he did do timing belts, and a cam is off a tooth, you would notice it. Car would have no power, and may not even idle! I suggest you continue looking at the transmission and shifter assemblies. Make sure the shifter assembly is bolted securely to the back of the transmission, and I believe there is a bracket that mounts to the body as well. Ask you mechanic if he re-used the transmission mounts off your old transmission, or if he used the ones that came with the "new" transmission. If it didn't shake before, I would have him re-install the mounts that were on the old transmission. Check the shifter assembly to make sure the spring has been re-attached, and that all the bushings are in correctly. You could also go to the Subaru dealership in Moscow, ID and talk to one of their older mechanics, or the parts guy and see what they reccomends. I know they used to have some pretty knowledgable people that worked there...

Poppin' in herr to give a quick update. Checked the throttle shaft, no excessive play. Re-checked timing, after dangerously using a wire brush to clean the rusty spinning flywheel. Found out it was at 13-14, intstead of 20! Doh! I guess I had mistaken 10 degree for 20, since it was rusty and hard to read. Bad news. The disty was already maxed out, so Noah moved it over a tooth, managed to get it to just about 20, more like 19, but still seems to run like poo. I'll drive it tonight and see how it is. So, therefore, vis-a-vi, ergo, concordantly, the driverside cam may be off a tooth. Weeeeee! *this conclusion was reached, when being timed at 20 degrees, or darn near, my vac. at idle is still poo, about 11.

Umm... wanna tissue? Impreza would be an inaccurate term, because I know for a fact the 02+ struts are too tall for our cars. In and tested, are GC Impreza components. Whether they came off of a USDM, or JDM, really doesn't matter. Nor does it matter if it came off of a 2 dr, 4 dr, or wagon. There are plenty of things in this world that are improperly referred to... usually because everyone already understands what it means. Please don't try to tell me that a n00b would get so hung up on the fact that it is a GC8 instead of a GC6, GM whatever, or what have you. The idea gets across just the same, and its not going to stop them from posting wanting help and clarification. EVEN IF WE SPELLED IT OUT IN ALL THE LANGUAGES OF THE WORLD, INCLUDING BINARY, WE WOULD STILL HAVE "N00BS" POSTING FOR CLARIFICATION ON THIS. Oh yeah, congrats to you and Corky for knowing what a GC8 really is. I'm sure that makes you better than just about everyone else here, including me. Cause even though I know what it is, I still use the popular vernacular.

Hopefully anyday now... I'm working on it. Cost should be the same... $10-11 Pre-reg, $15 at the gate.

Thats right kids, its back! The never-ending quest to get a poor RX back on the road. A little behind the scenes info for those not in the loop: - VF11 turbo - '86 Turbo block, heads, and cams - Spider intake - Custom fuel system So... I got my "craigslist" motor in the car, and running. Idles decent. Had to turn the fuel pressure way way down, about 22psi above manifold. I get approxiametly 10-11 inhg's of vac. at idle. Spark plugs are one step colder, and timing is set at 18 or so. What is it not doing you may ask? Well... drivability is still less than desirable. A bit of hesitation while accelerating, especially when boost starts to come on. My wideband indicates an idle of about 13:1 (varies alot) and an accelerating of about 9:1. Although when I got up higher it seemed to lean out a bit, towards 12:1. I feel like I have a vac. leak, my idle vac. indicates I might... however I can't find one, even with the can of ether. If this is indeed the case, it would also lead to the hesitation, but my findings have turned up nill. I've thought about advancing the timing, but after loosing 3? maybe 4? sets of headgaskets, and a couple sets of rings to detonation, i'm hesitant. Suggestions? I'm open for someone to come over and go over it, I can buy beer, food, and if the end results is awesome, some $$. Also, the car is officially up for sale. I'll let it go, as sits right now, for $2300. Everything is there, just needs some tweaking. The better it runs... the higher the price goes. Grab it while its cheap!

After having my 2 flywheels at the machine shop for 2.5weeks , they came back. Nothing done to them. They said they didn't want to do it, and couldn't do it by my deadline of the 14th of this month. SO now what? I guess I'll try another machine shop :-/

Most people who offroad subaru's trail ride an 80's era one, or rally a legacy/impreza one. I would not reccomend taking an older 80's scoob offroad at highspeed, unless you plan to do a lot of reinforcing to it, and plan to stop frequently for repairs.

Damn! so close.

Sensor 3 is what you need to replace. Spend the $40 and go buy a new one. Also make sure the connection to it is very good. Maybe use some of that special grease, and double check the wires for corrosion. The correct term is the Coolant Temp Sensor. Most places will order the one wire sender, Sensor 2 on your picture, which is incorrect. This is just for the gauge. Make sure it is the 2 wire sensor and you should be good to go.

OE dude, OE. I had NO luck with copper headgaskets. I got them from http://www.headgaskets.com I think is the website...

Yeah, when I saw the picture, I immediately thought it was an EA skid plate. Good to know some simple work to an EA one can make it fit. Did any Imps come with skid plates? or are they all naked?

So... to break this down for the dumb... like me, 10mm x 1.0 is the fitting size of the place on the block (is there one on the oil pump too, like the EA82?) Alum. pipe coupler, 3/8" so... 3/8" pipe thread is what the pres. senders is, right? Is this the same as an EA82? I'm assuming it is... Do I have all that right?

My RX.... $1500 - Car $100 - First hoodscoop $120 - Second hoodscoop (04 STi) $300 - 5 lug setup $350 - 2.5rs Rims $60 - WRX turbo back exhaust, stock $150 - TD04 Turbo $100 - Exhaust (custom axle back) $50 - XT6 Flywheel $180 - XT6 clutch & PP $50 - 2 Spider intakes $800 - Brand new rebuilt block $150 - Motor from Mudrat for the heads (Gen 2) $200 - Craigslist motor ('86, currently in car) $140 - Delta Cams $200 - Copper Head gaskets $250 - Lots of sets of OE headgaskets $50 - Set of rings $80 - 2 turbo pistons to replace 2 in the brand new block I cracked $60 - Couple different sets of NGK spark plugs $100 - WRX intercooler $50 - Samco Y-pipe $400 - Custom stainless lines and fittings, and fuel rails $100 - Fuel Pressure Regulator $40 - Fuel pressure gauge $150 - SAFC $50 - Autometer boost gauge $80 - Apexi Turbo Timer $50 - For mutiple timing belts Ouch. Roughly $5600 :/ And it will be forsale soon. USMB price of $2700.

I'll be there... Monica will be there Who else is needed?

Holy.... Thanks for puttin' the fear of god into me. My flywheel's are currently at the machine shop waiting to be done... I was hoping for a bill LESS than the $70 people on the board do it for.

Boob, this has been talked about. Remember... Impreza's and early legacy's all have struts at all 4 corners. New legacy's use a front strut, rear coilover like our cars do. In fact, my roomate happened upon some rear Legacy Outback coilovers, and they are damn near identical to ours. So... if you are 5-lugged... you want to look for new coilover suspension for the new Legacy GT. But watch out... I haven't found anything under $1000... and that was used!

For awhile I ran without it. But, while trying to fix idle and hesitation issues I put it back in. I put it at the stock spot on the manifold, however, just move it towards the center of the manifold, and only use one of the bolts to hold it in.

is that the disc looking thing with the 2 hose connections on it, and a tube coming out the other side with the wiring connecter on it?

If you actually look at the 2 TPS's, you'll find they move oppositie directions... thus, not interchangeable without a good amount of modification. 85-86 TPS's are different from 87+ TPS's which are different than spider manifold TPS's. I used the spider TPS. Do I have issues? probally, but that is not the cause of the hesitation. Try more timing. Hesitation will go away, then your head gaskets will go BOOM! I always thought my hesitation was cams and/or turbo. We shall see with this new motor. No delta cams, and VF11 FTW.

Marck... this is what needs to be done to fix your problem. Unfortunately it involves finding someone that can weld stainless... Should be able to find someone to do this. I know several shops in the Seattle area that can do it... What you need to do, is cut the straight section of pipe in the middle between the first and second bends. Before cutting mark a line on the pipe, to line it back up with. Add approx. a 1" piece where you cut, and reweld it. By doing this, it will lower the back end and allow it to pass the trans. xmember. BTW... I have not done this, this is just how I would go about doing it. I have a stock wrx downpipe on my car, and just had to remove some of the heat sheilding at the bottom of it for it to clear the xmember. However, I also do not have the TWE header.