Subarutex

WRX turbo and IC here, and mine runs! Even with the stock turbo and the wrx IC, its a big difference. Also allows you to run more boost (10-12psi) and that always makes things much more fun.

Looks like we'll still be in Spokane on Sat. :-/

Didn't wait for the Black Friday sale? Email me the details.

I refuse to believe that MY Brat leaks any fluids whatsoever. *put some cardboard under it... you usually have enough stacked up in the garage, but if you don't... one more reason to go buy a new TV

I've sworn to not "mod" it. However that will not stop me from offering up advice on getting new parts when things need servicing. Also, none of my cars had to move from the driveway, thanks to Syphon graciouslly parking my Brat in HIS garage. +1 Best Friend Points Over all, i'm pretty jealous. I wish I could get myself into a nice car like she did. But, she worked hard for it, so its plenty deserving.

Come home at all last night? Yes... Its that fast

Update! Well, Last week I bought an Innovate LM-1 unit. Its a wideband controller, came with the handheld unit, oxygen sensor and some other doodads. I'm still waiting on the Aux. input cable to come, so i can take advantage of the data logging features of the unit. I moved the stock o2 sensor back, from the custom bung I had put in right after the turbo, to the stock spot ont he WRX midpipe (that had been plugged). Then I placed the Wideband o2 sensor in the bung right after the turbo. I did try to simulate the regular sensor with the wideband unit (built in feature) but I wasn't satisfied that it was working 100%. So thats why I decided to move the o2 sensor back. On my first drive like this, car seemed bogging/laggy like usual. With any sort of throttle I was seeing 12:1 AFR's. With boost I was seeing 10:1 and 9:1 AFR's. This morning I had a couple minutes free before I left for work, so I decided to try some things. First, I knocked the fuel pressure down a touch, seemed to help idle (although the car has been idling fine...). Then I adjusted idle adjustment screw on the TB. Again, it helped the idle become more stable. Then I put the manual boost controller in. I left the stock wrx "restrictor" inline with it too. Made sure it was turned way down, and decided I better head to work. WOW. Car pulls hard now, all the way to 8psi. (before I was hitting 5, almost 6) So, not a huge increase in boost, but boost response and driving feel was greatly improved. I drove up the hill to work today, at 40mph, 3rd gear, with car in vacuum! So nice to not have to keep it from boosting. Then, when I did put my foot into it, it accelerated. Not quite as good as when not on a hill, but way better than before. AFR's were pretty identical to before, so the increased boost really didn't cause me to run any leaner. I also disconnected the SAFC. Its still "installed" but its not changing the maf voltage anymore. But still tells me throttle, maf %, and rpm. So yeah, I'm stoked. Oh yeah.. Cars still FOR SALE!

Does that mean if I put a mail box ontop of my scoop I'll get hotties like that?? If so... how much do mailboxes cost, I need to get one stat!

Awesome!!! Almost brings a tear to my eye... Does this mean no more timing belts in Montana?

Brilliant! why didn't I think of that?

Gap is .040. Timing is at 20 degrees. My rising rate is just bigger than factory... still a 1:1 though. Its set at factory pressure 34 or 37psi, can't remember off the top of my head.

I'm avg. 8 a day... OK... more about the RX. This morning I put in the "restrictor" in the boost line (going from the boost solenoid to the wastegate actuator). Used the factory OEM pill... and boost is way smoother!! Score one for the home team. Still a problem... bogging/chugging under load (like hills) when the car is under 3500rpm and boost starts to go positive. Have to back pedal like crazy, which is hard. Its like trying to accelerate up a hill, without touching the accelerator. Also seems like there is a lot of "play" in the AWD system, takes a split second to load up on accel and decel, causing a jar or shake... Normal?

Know whats better than paint?? VINYL graphics. I could do some cool stuff.

I do believe he is refering to the vac. port on the turbo. Connect this straight with the wastegate, with no factory solenoid in between.

I have a black '83 brat, brown '86 lifted wagon, and a white '87 RX. I drove a couple times last week my brothers turbo XT. Its a dark grey and auto. I have to say... the turquoise looks better in person.

Usually my threads are full of hate, angst, and depression regarding my RX. This one won't. Know why? I DROVE IT TO WORK TODAY. I DROVE IT TO WORK YESTERDAY TOO. Now, I must say, everything is not perfect. Buts thats OK. Lets talk about what it does good first. I'm only running 5psi on the TD04 right now, but currently it pulls damn good above 3700rpm. It idles are 1000rpm, only needing attention for the first 30 seconds or so on cold mornings. It starts first try, everytime. And has yet to stall out or die on me. Now, lets recap the mods: brand new block, pistons, rings, etc.. heads. Copper HG's. Delta Cams (260 duration). TD04 turbo. Stock WRX DP, custom from there back. Custom fuel rails, FPR. WRX TMIC. XT6 flywheel, and clutch. Spider Intake. Now... what needs work. Boost wants to come on at 2800rpm, but this just bogs the motor, especially in a load situation (going up hills, etc...) How to keep it from "bogging?" Weird throttle issue. Try to hold throttle at 3000rpm, it will cutout and drop to 1000-1500rpm, then climb again... and repeat. Possible TPS issue, or throttle cabling issue. TPS checks out A OK so far with volt meter. Possible low compression still... but need to just drive it and get rings seated. All cylinders about 110 psi. I want to up the boost, to see if that does anything to the bog/lag issue, but am scared. Currently running just w/ factory boost solenoid and factory wastegate on TD04. I also want to try the little restrictor that the stock WRX boost lines have in them, maybe that would help... Also, the car is stil FOR SALE. Asking $2800-$3k depending on options. OBO of course.

are you running it with wideband input? seems like if its knocking... dial the timing back a little bit. More tuning seems like a solution to me.

Chux... I feel your pain. I've had my wagon broken into twice now, and my RX once. First time they got my entire system, second time they just got a POS cd player. In the RX they got my box and sub. Now, I've done something you may be interested in, however pictures speak however many words. I'm gonna shoot some pictures for you to look at. It will help inspire you. For cheap alarms, check www.millionbuy.com Thats where I got my Crimestopper alarm from. At the sametime I also pilfered a factory set of power door locks from Danbob's parts car. Combined, its one great combination. I can always gaurantee the doors are locked, and the little red blinking light helps deter the kids and tweakers looking for an easy in and out job. I know you said you didn't want one, but I figured I'd give you as much information as I had. The site also has really good pricing on some decks, and speakers, etc... I've purchased from them several times, and have had excellent service. Also, I thought the dome light wires went down the passenger side. I'll double check in Danbob's wagon when I get home, his headliner is out. I'll also give you the wire colors, but his is an '89... Don't hesitate to send me a PM for any wiring help, remind me to get pictures, etc... Real life gets in the way sometimes and I forget about threads. Chin Up!

Were you controlling timing with the megasquirt? I'm thinking of pulling my SAFC out. I'm worried about it not passing through the voltage above 5v.

Yes, Noah got his plate yesterday. He called me at 4pm (pacific time) to tell me engine was in, just needed to do wiring and he was ready to rock.

Sounds like SAMO.

Qman's XT6 has some, even has the custom decals to prove it. Having ridden in the the car, but never driven it, I will say this. Luggy down low? not really at all. Pulls like a scalded dog about 3000 or so, HELL YES. His problem was finding a clutch that didn't slip like a mother up high. Still does it after getting a fancy dancy clutch... Seems like you can't get a higher sprung pressure plate.

Are you trying to replace the axle? The rear axles work a little bit differently than the fronts. The rears have cups at each end, that slide onto stubs. So there is a stub axle on the rear hub, but this is not part of the halfshaft. This is how I remove a rear axle. Step one, pound out pins from the dished side. (located on the cups of the axle, one at the diff, one at the hub... 3/16 pin punch works great) Step two, remove bottom bolt of shock... it has a capture nut, so don't worry about holding it. 17mm I believe. Step Three, push as far down as possible on the hub/arm assembly. With it down, there should be enough room to slide off the axle cups from the stubs. I usually do the hub side first, then the diff side. Hope this makes sense.... I'll check back in a few to clarify anything.

Yeah... I'm an attention whore too...

My roommate Danbob99 put a header off of a JDM ea82T on his wagon. It definatelly improved performance. It was sturdier built too!