Subarutex

Fan is a high flow unit controller from a switch in the dash. Its on fulltime. Yes, after adding coolant it still climbs and drops. I'll check the oil pressure sender.

Ok, I'm having a couple small problems with my beloved wagon. First, it runs hotter than normal. (this started after a recent romp in the woods, see Subiesport issue #2) Basically, it will climb in temperature till just under the red, then drop down to near normal operating temp. I assumed it needed coolant, so I added some. While burping it (car idleing, rad cap off filling it) I noticed that it continuely bubbled. It bubbled even more when I revved it. This indicates a bad head/ or head gasket, right? Oil is fine, no water contamination. Second problem, oil pressure on guage pegged high. (happened same time it started getting hot) So... are my HG's borked? Large air bubble in the system? Suddenly bad oil sender?

ed, i have a 3.9 in my garage you can have for $10. It only needs the bolts that hold the stubs on.

On the napa ring... did you just sandwhich it behind the crank pulley? or how did you do it? I'm cheap, but only to a point. I'm not confident enough in my soldering skills to solder on the board. I've tried doing some kits like that, and just really had a struggle with it. On the flip side, I'm fairly good at soldering lines together... and i just recently made a cable to remote mount a cd player faceplate using some db15 plugs. Took me a while, but I was able to solder those... I think its just my own lack of confidence keeping me from soldering the MS myself. Its not something i want to get frustrated with, and discouraged, so I'll gladly pony up some extra cash to get a guaranteed working unit. Side note... engine is back together with copper hg's and new oem head bolts. Will be dropping it in tomorrow hopefully...

When i did this years ago i got flamed for ruining the RX's look. Making it look like a standard GL. Oh wells. I love mine, yours looks 100% better cause of that grill. Seriously, I want a 3 door grill. I've been looking for 6+ months and everytime i come up dry.

NAPA part numbers are: CSS304 = wheel ($10) (the wheel has a large hole, about 1" in the middle) CSS411 = sensor ($25) (body diameter is about .50" instead of .625" for the Escort sensor) Thanks for the reply Garner. I'll go with the relay board, doesn't look that complex to do. How much did you end up paying for the techedge kit? I've looked at it before, but i alwayd get crossed up converting AU to US monies. Probally will be a month or so till I recieve the MS. In the meantime i should put the engine back together (HG's finally came today). I'll download the megatune software and start playing around with it, getting aquainted with it. Thanks!

Link works fine for me... sucks to be you guys. And, because i feel bad... Taken from above link: Fitments: I-6 TURBO 1975-83 280Z (L28E) 1977-84 Maxima (L24E) 1984-86 300ZX (VG30E) 1985-86 Maxima (VG30E) 1986-87 300ZX (VG30T) *Reconditioned/Rebuilt injectors. Barbbed w/hose can be used for racing applictions. Resistence: 2.7 Ohms Flow: 300cc/min (32lbs) open 25.6lbs/hr 80% duty cycle *Core amount is refunded upon return to Fiveo (See policy on this page). Call for 450cc barbed injectors for early Z cars FIVEOMOTORSPORT.COM - 4932 Pearce Ave, Lakewood, CA 90712 Call for inquiries - Office: (562) 867-4999, Cell: (562) 394-7218 ORDER Desk & Tech Info: (562) 867-4999 - FAX: (562)925-7422 All Fiveomotorsport Fuel Injectors sold with a 100% Replacement Workmanship Warranty And picture...

Ok, I've been given the green light to go ahead and order a megasquirt. Of course, i'm going the easy way, and buying it preassembled. I'm not confident of my soldering abilities, and also want to cut out a lot of possible troubleshooting. I'm looking to run EDIS. In fact, i already have the module, and coil pack. JUst need to go to NAPA to pick up my sensor and ring... then figure out a way to magically meld the ring onto the crank. I'm buying the "kit" from http://www.rs-autosport.com/ Includes prelabeled wires for harness, connector, and assembled megasquirt. Just to double check i really know whats going on, the MS i'm looking at getting will be configured in the following way: MSnS firmware MSnEDIS hardware mod Is this correct? The stock coolant temp sensor will work with MS, right? And I'll need to pick up a GM air temp sensor... will i need a special connector for this? I'm also contemplating getting the relay board kit (from glensgarage.com) and using that. Oddcomp doesn't use the relay board I do believe. Garner, do you? I was thinking it would be the cleaner simpler way to do it, but i'm also cheap, so if its not that needed I won't do it. Thanks for your input! Merry Christmas!

Have fun cutting up that perfectly good RX grill. I'll just sit around and watch another grill be wasted. Maybe someday i'll find one... :-\

Research it. Click that link i gave. It shows what years/models the injectors will work on. Sorry the information isn't more apparent

Ok. I got my quantity quote back for those that are interested. For 3 sets... $373.52 a piece For 5 sets... $323.32 a piece For 10 sets... $243.32 a piece There are 4 "parts" for every order... I'll outline them below. Washers: Each set needs 18 @ $.052 Nuts: Each set needs 18 @ $1.21 Off the shelf studs: Each set needs 6 @ 10.60 Custom studs: Each set needs 12.. 12 (1 set)= $549.60 36 (3 sets)= $861.60 60 (5 sets)= $1,188.00 120 (10 sets)= $1573.00 I've provided all the information I know. At this point, it is too late for me to get in on a group buy. However, if there are interested parties, i will pass on the information (contacts, prices, etc...) or maybe even help organize it. If this takes a while to get off the ground, I may be able to afford it. Keep in mind, shipping is not included in this. I would add $20 to each order to cover shipping. Also, I believe we would have to buy everything in bulk, then divide it out and ship. If 9 people are seriously interested, I will handle the groupbuy and shipping if you guys chip in an extra $15-$20 a piece for my efforts. I would then be able to front the rest to pick up the 10th set.

yes

my rx doesn't have them (87) 4 doors have a follower system as well.

Dude, your power door locks don't work cause you don't have any. Coupe = No door locks. Just lean over and lock it slacker!!

ed, i have a spare fuel pump from an ea82 or ea81... not sure which. I got it from john szigi? i think thats his last name. Its been rolling around in the back of the wagon, let me know if you need it.

You still never have stated what is wrong. A lot of times are there less exspensive ways to accomplish things.

A reflash would be a sweet deal. Cost is a big thing though. Find out how much coin it will take.

Sorry Kevin, thats my bad on the Aux. Air Valve. I've had mine off for so long... If you can't get it plumbed into the intake track (somewhere between the MAF and the throttle body) you can always plug it. Thats how mine was forever, then I just removed it, and plugged the port on the intake manifold.

Your safest bet is to ride out the warrenty, then start tinkering. Those that get impatient, usually end up having SOA bite them in the rump roast. Now, on the lift. Are you thinking of just putting blocks above the struts? But not anywhere else on the drivetrain? IF that is the case, increased cv wear will happen, the add the increased wear from using the vehicle and larger tires in places it wasn't meant to be. If you are planning to do a whole body lift there shouldn't be any extra wear on the cv's. Of course, running larger tires and using the vehicle in a manner other than which it was designed does add increased wear to the cv axles. Personally, I don't think you'd have a problem with the cv's in a full body lift situation. I think they are stout enough to take some medium offroading every 3rd saturday. I think you will have a problem if you just lift the struts.

Once you get all the little bugs figured out with the IC, definately consider a MBC. Even if you set the MBC at pretty much stock boost (8psi or so) it will come on a lot sooner.

Ok. First off kevin... That is a beautiful intercooler. Second... I downloaded a motorweek video the other day, about the 22B. Saw a guy on there named kevin leaning up against a turbo'd and NAWS'd OBS with black racing stripes... twas this you? Thirdish... The BOV has 2 ports for hoses. A large and a small. The small needs to be hooked to the vaccuum system. This actuates the diaphragm inside the BOV/BPV. Now, the large end is where the excess pressure will be bled off. With just the air filter on the big end, and the small hose hooked to it, you will be venting to atmosphere. It will give you a cool whoosh sound when you shift. Some people have trouble with the car idling like this, some live with the rough idle for the sound. If you wanted to run completely without the BOV/BPV just unplug the small vac. source, make sure that the line is capped so it doesn't leak. In my opinion, the best thing you could do, is leave it hooked up as is, with the air filter on it. It will vent to atmosphere. Fourthly... Problem #2 you refer to vac. hoses. Those fatter lines are not vaccuum lines, they are PCV hoses. These vent your crankcase. In the FSM it shows how the system works to keep the pressure out of the crankcase (oil system). The line that is left free in your picture (use to connect to intake piece) is what draws air into the system. Since this air isn't part of the combustion process, it doesn't need to be drawn in from a point after the MAF. It would be in your best interest to simply put another mini air filter on it. At schmucks they sell these, i think they are labeled as PCV breathers, or something to that effect. Fifthly... I have some pictures of that scoop being done "in progress" if you'd like them. On that note, how is the bondo holding up around the edges of the scoop? Is it cracking? Shrinking? Good luck, and don't blow it up!

On my left front strut, i have 3 things. Pressure switch: For the turbo light Wastegate solenoid: Controls wastegate? Dropping resistor: Which is connected to the 4 fuel injectors, and to the ecu. Theory: COuld it be, that this passage was accidently left unaltered from the 85-86 mpfi systems?

OK girls... Scoured Ebay, found some good things. Then, sifting through google, found this: http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsNISSAN.asp Look under the Second column. Bosch #62004 Resistence: 2.7 Ohms Flow: 300cc/min (32lbs) open 25.6lbs/hr 80% duty cycle $286 for a set of 6, plus a $36 core charge. 2 sets of 6 would be 12 injectors. Enough for 3 of our cars. $286x2 + $36x2 = 644 / 3 = $214.67 for a set of 4 300cc/min injectors. Anybody have any good hookups at places that sell bosch parts? Might try that, i included the part number. Seems way easier than trying to adapt different style injectors into the manifold.

I had some good success with it. WJM. Go through my schematic again. MAF -> SAFC -> FCD -> ECU. Thus, the SAFC gets the original signal from the MAF and modifies it per the programming you've done. Next, the FCD gets to look at the MODIFIED MAF signal coming from the SAFC. This way, if the SAFC modifies the MAF voltage past teh cutoff point, you are still safe. I had massive problems with the SAFC modifing the voltage past fuel cut.

MAF signal wire for the SAFC. I would put the FCD on the MAF signal wire too, but between the SAFC and the ECU. MAF -> SAFC -> FCD -> ECU. Keep in mind that the SAFC should be hooked up damn close to the ecu.