Subarutex

That is beautiful. I need one of those... but with a 36-1 ring on it!

Like shadow alluded to, the price is probally 80% setup. I will see about other combinations of metric/standard sizes.

Ok, I got my quote back: The 6 small off the shelf ones are $10.60 a piece. Total for these is $63.60. The other 12 studs would cost $593.25. Most of this I'm told is the setup cost. He will be getting back to me with a quote for 3-5-10 sets. Oh, on top of that, add the cost of nuts and washers, which I haven't gotten yet. $593.25 + 63.60 = $656.85 total for one set of studs. Nuts and washers extra $. A little bit out of my price range. I'd realistically be willing to pay $200 or so for a set. We'll see what the results are from the multiple quantity quotes. As I can't wait to get my engine together, I went ahead and order brand new head bolts. $2 a piece from 1stsubaruparts.com. Should be here late next week, or early the week after. This doesn't mean I am giving up! I will still take this contact as far as I can. Atleast get the info out there for others.

Most commonly the VF-11 was on Legacy Turbo's I believe. However, I do think that some models (maybe certain years, certain coutries) got the VF-12.

I have had no slipping problems with my xt6 flywheel and clutch setup.

What I had to do is call them and ask if they had any for my application. Of course, they didn't, so they faxed me this dimension sheet and told me to email or fax it back. Did that, and the guy told me they have ones that will work for the small bolts, but not the large. Since my email server is down, I won't know till Friday if then what the quote on getting the long ones custom done. I was going to inquire about going to a bigger stud aswell, however i doubt the cost would negate the cost/effort of drilling retapping the block.

The guy i'm working with at ARP is working up a quote. It should include the cost of the off the shelf small studs, the custom made long studs, and the needed nuts, washers, etc. I'll post it here when I get it... and I'll ask about doing a group buy then, if there is serious interest.

Its $90 for the set of copper gaskets + sealant + shipping. For an additional $60 you can get steel compression rings to go around the cylinders.

Why these instead of copper?

I got a response back from the ARP guy. He has off the shelf studs that will work for the 6 small ones. He's getting me a quote to have the big ones custom made.

Measurements I took from my block with my Vernier Calipers.There are 2 sizes of studs needed. 9 per head for a total of 18 studs. I need 6 smalls, and 12 bigs. SMALL: A. 14mm B. 25mm C. 76.5mm D. 12.7mm E. .043" (although, I would potentially like the oppurtunity to run a thicker copper gasket in the future) F. 8mm G. 24mm H. 44.5mm I. M11x1.25 BIG: A. NA - no counter bore B. 25mm (not really a bore, but the space allowed for clamping/washer space) C. 90.5mm D. 12.7mm E. .043" (see note for small) F. 8mm G. 24mm H. 44.5mm I. M11x1.25 These were taken off a neat sheet the ARP guy sent to me. I'll see if I can fill out a little legend for these. A. Depth of Head Counter Bore B. Diameter of Head Counter Bore C. Thickness of Head from the bottom of the counter bore to the bottom of the head D. Diameter of bolt/stud hole in head E. Head Gasket Thickness F. Depth of counter bore in block (space before threads start) G. Length of thread in block H. Depth of bolt/stud hole from block surface to bottom of hole I. Thread size and pitch

Up from the dead!! Garner, did you recieve these? What is there condition like? Get them installed? I'm looking at getting some for my RX... Let me know.

Unfortunately, I've decided to retorque mine once I get the engine back together. Its goign to be PITA, but I need to stop cutting corners and try and ensure this next round with the engine lasts more than a couple hundred or even a thousand miles.

I do vinyl graphics for a living. At the shop, we WILL NOT use the rubber stripe off things. We have several, everytime we attempt to use it, it ends up harming the surface. We simply cannot take that risk working on other people's cars and trucks. There is no miracle solution, other than lots of hard work. We will heat the graphics with a heat gun, and peel them off. Then, for the remaining adhesive we saturate it with isopropyl alcohol. Then, use a stiff but flexible scrapper (we use a soft plastic squeegee or a harder plastic scraper) to scrape the bulk of the adhesive off. There will still be a residue or film. Wash and scrub with isopropyl until clean. We've tried lots of different methods. The wheels, a bunch of different chemicals (most are mixes of citrus removers and alcohol). Nothing we've tried has worked better than straight alcohol. There is a certain amount of safety using alcohol, its very hard to harm the paint with it. Also, a lot of the chemical concoctions will give you a mean headache, where as you don't so much with the alcohol. So, to reinterate. TAKE YOUR TIME. Rushing or trying to find a shortcut will only lead to surface damage.

Explain in detail your process of how you did the wiring. I'm betting its the wiring.

This company http://www.headgasket.com already has the cad files neccassary to cut them for the EA82's. I called, and was quoted a price of $90 for the set. This does not include extra thin steel rings around the cylinders. Those are $15 a cylinder. So it would be $150 for a set of headgaskets and rings + whatever sealant you wanted + shipping. I am also looking to get some ARP head studs. To help get more torque on the copper gaskets.

This is how I launched when i went to the dragstrip. Dry: Put it in low. Tach up to 3500rpm. Dump it on green. With it in low range, the car won't bog hardly at all. Quickly grab second. Grab third. Shift out of low into high. Try and hold it, you might need to hit 4th. Aside from the time or 2 I took it down the 1/4 mile, if I launch it, its in the wet. Wet: High range. 3500rpm. Dump the clutch, catch the pedal right at the top ready to push in to feather the car back up to revs if needed.

According to my FSM, the fuel pump relay is under the center console. Let me describe the picture... If you are in the drivers seat, with the center console (lower part, in front of the shifter) off. YOu should see 2 groups of 2 relays, one set to the left, and one set to the right. The one on the right and to the top (could be back?) is the fuel pump relay.

Got through to a person at ARP this morning. I need this info: The thickness of the head where the bolt holes are. Both the short and the long holes. I need to know how deep the threads go into the block, and also how much dead space there is in the hole before the threads start. I already know the size and thread pitch. Once I am able to give him these dimensions, he'll be able to give me a price. Any help would be appreciated. Not sure if the FSM's would have this kind of info.

I called 3 times yesterday... it just rang and rang first 2 times. Third time it went to voicemail. Their website isn't much help either.

Anybody in the portland area able to stop by Performance Race Engineering and talk to them about head studs for the ea82's???

Corky, the PREracing guy said he had head studs, he said he got them from ARP. I tried calling today, but ended up leaving a message. The number is on the website www.preracing.com if you'd like to spare your tremendous amount of free time and help me out

Its PREracing.com. Wooo!

Ok guys... goose hunt time. At the rallycross @ WCSS6 there was a guy racing an RX. Red and white, intercooler sticking through the hood. He worked/owns a performance shop of some kind. Stickers were all over the car. I need to know the name of his performance shop so I can try and get in contact with him about his ARP head studs. So... if you have a picture of this car, or just simply remember the name of the company let me know!!

After having a long talk with the copper gasket guy, I'm pretty sure this blow out is a result of not having enough clamping force on the ring around the cylinder. Whether this was caused by not retorqueing the head bolts, using used stretch bolts, or simply not torqueing to the high side of the stock range. I'm going to give copper head gaskets a try. Haven't decided if i'm going to have the steel ring around the cylinder or not. WILL probally use sealant. May or may not use studs...