Subarutex

Looks Great. Your problem is however, the side skirts are on backwards. The larger more aggressive up angle goes towards the front. Then you should be able to open the back doors. If you look at SS's post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16652 You'll get an idea from that. And, I double checked this against my RX, the sideskirts are not the same front to back.

You took my rims!!! J/K I have those same rims on my RX. Sharp XT. Funny how perhaps the 2 fastest EA82T's on this board are running the same wheels.... Oh... I'll race you for pink slips

Oh yeah, Dan also has the TI (Tex Industries) cold air intake. I'll make you one... call me.

Dan is unmuffled, you are not. So the back pressure thing, or lack there of helps out a lot.

EJ to EA engine adapter... yes. Make one!

Well, another page to the story. So there is the doohicky between the vaccum port on the turbo and the wastegate actuator. Its called a boost controller. For the hell of it, i cranked it up. Previously, it wasn't so cranked up, and i was running about 7-8psi. Now, its running about 10-11psi. However, turbo response has improved dramatically. Atleast tonight it has. This evening is a lot colder that it was over the weekend, so maybe that had something to do with it. Also, adjusting the boost controller may have something to do with it. I might add, that I need to get me a real boost controller, as my homemade one is good... but hard to meter how much you turn it up. I put almost 5 full turns on it, and it only went up 3 psi. I will continue driving, and fiddling, see what I can come up with.

Looks good... do it! If I had been adventerous I might have attempted that, however what I did was the "easy" way to do it.

WJM... let me asure it does indeed run like a scalded dog... once the the turbo kicks in... off the line its a dog, starting up hills, etc...

I don't have a problem having spent the money on the cams. It was worth a shot. I will undertake putting the stocker cams back in. Perhaps I'll put the delta cams in my brother's turbo XT. Perhaps too much for a 16 year old though... I was going to call and ask delta what they could do for me. If they had a Torque ground cam for the EA82T. As the cam that I have is very horse power directed. But, Corky Bell said it best in his book "Most stock turbo cams are as good as you are going to get." And yes, i've been tinkering with this car for quite sometime, reluctant to post because of my results. Lessons learned. Side note: Shadow, could you PM me or post some links or info on why a new header (equal length) is needed. I just need some reading material on it. I'll look in Corky Bell's book on it too.

The timing is set to 25deg. Stock is 20 irc... Yes, a supercharger would do it... No doubt about it. However, i'd like to work with what I have.

The car is pretty doggy. I put close to 120 miles on it this weekend, and i'm not very pleased. Basically, the engine has no torque. The cams come alive at about 3000 it seems, driving improves from there. At about 3500 the turbo hits and you are scooting along. Because of this, it leads to a driving style that is: wait for it, wait for it... go go go go go STOP, wait for it, wait for it... go go go go go. It seems hard to slowly accelerate to a certain speed, simply because you have to flog the engine so hard to get it to go. Starting on a hill... I'm done for. Just kinda crawl along. So... it could be the delta cams and the wrx turbo, just not a good mix. Could be the exhaust. Could be timing. Could be a lot of things. Let me know your thoughts, ask questions, i'll do my best to answer them to the fullest. The dream is still alive, just wary I guess. (yes, i posted this at the end of the other thread, but for the sake of staying on topic, i figured I'd start a new one and not clutter up the idle one, since it was at like 5 pages)

Ok, so this weekend was the first chance i've had in awhile to get some serious behind the wheel time with the car. Idle problem mostly fixed... reinstalled the AAV, seems to work. However, it idles at like 1500. Any lower and it tends to die. Could be timing or fuel pressure related. The car is pretty doggy. I put close to 120 miles on it this weekend, and i'm not very pleased. Basically, the engine has no torque. The cams come alive at about 3000 it seems, driving improves from there. At about 3500 the turbo hits and you are scooting along. Because of this, it leads to a driving style that is: wait for it, wait for it... go go go go go STOP, wait for it, wait for it... go go go go go. It seems hard to slowly accelerate to a certain speed, simply because you have to flog the engine so hard to get it to go. Starting on a hill... I'm done for. Just kinda crawl along. So... it could be the delta cams and the wrx turbo, just not a good mix. Could be the exhaust. Could be timing. Could be a lot of things. Let me know your thoughts, ask questions, i'll do my best to answer them to the fullest. The dream is still alive, just wary I guess.

88: If its good enough for the factory ECU, its good enough for me to rough tune with. I'm not going to argue that it isn't as accurate as a WB02, but saying its worthless is just plain ignorant. Garner: WJM is correct, it should be metered air... along the same reasons a BOV should be recirculated. WJM: You Rock. Do It Sideways: I would argue that I am not running rich. I'm running less PSI than stock, albeit on a non-stock system. Besides, i'd much rather be rich than lean. Calebz: Thanks for the info... As soon as i can get back into my garage again i'll make some changes.

Thanks Shadow. That was very informative. When it was removed, i was under the impression it was some sort of emission device that wasn't needed. So, i'll reinstall in the factory position. I'm guessing this can't suck air from atmo, it has to be metered air. So'll plumb it in somewhere between the MAF and the throttle body... not sure where exactly yet. Probally off my IC tubes somewhere.

Well... that doodad (the AAV) has been removed from my car. And the nipple on the spider capped. I too have thought of this. Last night, i tried taking the cap off the nipple. Car died. Tried to rev it, car died. Then, i plugged the AAV in, but didn't hook it up, trying to see if it was opened or closed. Couldn't determine if it was open or closed. However, thinking back on it, my method of testing was wrong. Tonight I shall try hooking the AAV up to the intake, plugging it into the harness, and see if I can feel the vac. from the end thats supposed to be plumbed back into the plenum. When i got it to idle last night... its very possible the motor was warm, or close to.. thats why it worked. How cold does and engine have to be to be considered a cold engine?

Well, last night I got it to idle pretty good. Although at about 1100rpm. Mostly by adjusting the idle screw. This morning however, it was hard to start. Took me three tries to get it to fire up. And then... it didn't want to idle for a couple of minutes. I dunno what its problem is...

More timing? or less timing? I originally set the timing at 25 deg. My dizzy is maxed out at that. I spose I can pick it up and turn it a tooth. I guess what my question is... will more timing help idle?

The trick is... it used to idle. Not very well, but better than it does now. Perhaps it needs more timing. I messed around with the BOV. Didn't really make a difference in the idling. RIght now the neg. terminal is off the battery to reset the computer. I'll go back out in a bit and mess with it. I'm going to try playing with timing... idle screw, and looking for inconspicious hidden vac. leaks, probally in reverse order. I have an Apexi Turbo Timer installed on my car. It has a function to act as a digitally numerical A/F gauge. SO thats what I use. Vac. gauge is between 10-15 at idle and low rpms.

Well... I'm shooting for 1000rpm for my idle. Even that high it lopes a touch (when i can get it to idle) I have an a/f guage. However, since it reads off the 02, that has to be hot to read accurate, it doesn't say a whole lot. In fact, the readings are pretty stoic till i rev it. But, i don't have a traditional guage, i have a digital readout. It gives me the theoretical value computed from the input voltages it gets. So... when you guys say stoic... thats 14.7 to me. Full rich is something like 10, and full lean is like 20. Once warmed up, i usually read 14.7 at idle. Non-boost i usually see 14.1. Under boost I get anywhere from 12.5 to 14.1. Depending on weather usually I guess. Its almost time to invest in a wideband o2.

Mine is hotwire maf car. Yeah, i'm not looking for a purring idle... i just want a steady idle i can count on not dying at lights.

I'll check the BOV. Although, I ran the previous engine with no problems with the BOV vented to atmoshpere... Could be the combo of that and the cams yeilding less vaccum at idle. Good thoughts. Keep em coming!

OK... here is some background on the mods: Custom fuel system/fuel rails/regulator = 34psi Delta cams 670 ones Spider intake WRX Turbo WRX IC/BOV to atmo. Apexi SAFC to help with tuning Ok, here is the problem. On cold start up, the car doesn't like to idle. It will kind of idle, then sputter out. Even when it is running in an idle state... the rpm's are all over the board. Between 0 and 1200rpm. Usually sits at 1000, then lugs down and quits. I'm not sure if it dies because of too much fuel, or too much air. However, its not uncommon for the engine to flood if I try to restart it after it dies like this. So... how should I go about fixing this? Timing is set at 25deg. It just screams otherwise except for idling. Should I back off the timing a bit? Turn the fuel pressure down? The SAFC is zero'd out for now. Just trying to get the idle down before i do precise tuning. Let me know your thoughts, ideas, suggestions. I need to get this sorted out so I can start turning up the boost. I'm at 7psi now, i'd like to run 15psi...

Who said AGX? KYB makes some rear just plain old gas shocks for the rear. Come in 2 flavors... Those for adjustable perches, and those for fixed perches. I will most likely be getting some AGX's for the front of my car. They'll be for a GC era impreza. Styles - The aluminium sleeve wouldn't go over the shock tube on the strut. I banged and did everything I could think of... but they wouldn't go. Those front sleeves are beyond damaged now. Still have the springs though! I think its just the brand... was contemplating getting another brand. Not sure which though. I don't spose you could take some pics of your setup with your wheels off could ya?

For the rears I've done the following: KYB Gas Adjusts with the solid perches (brand new) Generic Ricerboy Coilover kit (88-01 Civic) The coilover kit is comprised of several pieces. The threaded sleeve, 2 locking perches, an upper perch, and stiff spring. Also came with a multitude of large o-rings. Find the right size o-ring slide one down halfway, and one at the top of the shock tube. Now slide threaded sleeve down the shock tube till it rests on the fixed perch. There should be no play in the sleeve. Now, thread the 2 locking perches onto the sleeve, probally about halfway. Place the supplied thin rubber donut on the top perch, and place the spring on it. Assemble the top mount as you would a stock one, substitute the supplied upper perch for the stock one. Also place a thin rubber donut in between this and the spring. Install, and adjust ride height. I couldn't get the fronts of this kit to work with my impreza shocks... so i'm working on something else for that.

Good Luck buddy. If I ever break down in SpoVegas.... I know who to call. Not like I wouldn't have called you before all this... but this just means you can't turn me away!