Subarutex

My wagon has a hatch :-D hehe

How much did you spend on the camber/caster plates? How did you figure where to place the bearing? Did you make them or have them made? I want some!

Interesting... I've read most of that too, just missed the part about the fuel cut off switch. Tonight i'm going to take a look at my vaccum system, i think i have some stuff setup wonky.

Awesome! Now... which sensor is it specifically? On my previous build I hit fuel cut a lot, I have yet to hit it on this build (still relatively low boost though). It has previously been thought that the fuel cut was a function of the voltage coming from the MAF. I run an Apexi SAFC, which modifies the MAF signal to give me some control over enriching or leaning the engine. So, i was under the impression that i was modifying the MAF signal too much, which was putting it past the fuel cut voltage mark more often than other people. To remedy this, I have bought an HKS fuel cut defencer, it has yet to be installed. The basic premise behind this gadget, is interrupting a signal, and clamping it if it goes above a certain set voltage. It has a poteintiometer (sp?) on it, to adjust what voltage it clamps at. This brings a whole new light to the situation. It could be possible to just unplug the switch (not the safest, but it would work) or ideally place the fuel cut defemcer on the signal wire. However, we need to first find out how the switch works. Does it send a low voltage signal when overboost occurs? or is it a gradual voltage increase like the MAF? Curious... where in the FSM did you find this tidbit? I'd like to research it in mine too! thanks

SC SC SC SC JAY SC SC SC SC Do It.

The Bow Wow in Lynnwood can get genuine tranny mounts, and a cheaper brand. I'm working with them now on finding some poly mounts that might be easy to get to fit.

Bow Wow is my shop of choice! I live about a mile from the Lynnwood shop. I've boughten so far: Delta cams (3 day turnaround), Reman'd axles (haven't broken yet!), Reseal kit for EA82, water pump, oil pump, misc. gaskets. PBR brake pads, and my weber... On a lot of things, i can order it in the morning on my way to work... and pick it up on my way home! I routinely stop by the store to check prices, talk with the guys, etc... I haven't met anyone that doesn't know what they are talking about, or that snubs me, or what i'm doing with my cars. I guess I wish they would stock SOA oil filters...and crush washers. Thats about it. I've also gotten timing belts... front end reseal kits, wheel bearings... Anything.

88: I believe what you are hearing is the wastegate dumping... was very noticable on my stockish RX. Corky: when you say what pressure a BOV is set at, you are talking about the maximum pressure it is designed to hold. The BOV is operated by the vaccuum line attached to it. It is merely a point of release for the pressure between the turbo outlet, and the throttle plate. In theory, you want the BOV to be able to hold up to 2-3psi above your maximum boost (boost creep included) but you also want it to bleed off at higher pressures (above the maximum boost). A safety valve as it were...

I got my over the net from barnes and noble... had a gift card to use up. I'm sure you could also get it from amazon aswell. The stock wrx bov is really a bpv. It coms with a bolt on elbow fitting to attach a recirculating hose to. It is not adjustable in its pressure. I've been told it doesn't hold much above 20psi. It atleast will hold 15psi or what a stock wrx runs. I got my WRX IC w/ the bpv for $150. My setup didn't come with the elbow fitting on the bpv though, so I've always ran it venting to atmosphere. Typically the full setup you should be able to get for $150 shipped to your door. I've been talking to a guy off of NASIOC that wants $175+ shipping for his...personally i think thats a little high. Be careful what you buy! Some people will neglect to include the y-pipe, the elbows on the bottom of the IC, the BOV, or the elbow fitting for the BOV. I will need to get Danbob99 back over to my house to take pics of his intake. Because we are running different turbo's the intakes are slightly different. Earlier this week I recieved a rubber elbow I ordered off of overboost.com to replace the dryer hose it was first plumbed up with.

I'm very interested in a set of bushings for my RX... what do I need to measure so you can make me a set?

I recommend the WRX IC. The stock intercooler comes with a y-pipe that divides one source from the turbo to the 2 inlets on the IC. Its actually quite simple to install. In Corky Bell's "The Complete Guide to Turbocharging" he states the better styles of IC's and why they work better. Simply put, with 2 inlets, it spreads out the air more, so it goes through the intercooler core more effeciently. The air gets cooled better. Also, the WRX IC has a mount on it for a BOV/BPV (blow off valve/bypass valve) and a huge selection of aftermarket BOV/BPV's you can choose from to get the performance, sound, and look you want. It is necassary in these cars, if you are upping the boost, to atleast put in a BOV/BPV. They stop the boosted air from bouncing off the Throttle plate and back against the turbine of the turbo. This can potentially cause damage. Why don't we have one of these stock you ask? In a way, we do. Its called a Dash Pot. The dash pot slows the very end of the closing of the throttle plate... so that the boosted air has a release into the manifold instead of crashing back against the turbine. It is possible to run high enough boost that the dash pot isn't enough. Feel free to bombard me with questions, I really enjoy talking about this stuff. Also, you can check out my website, in the gallery, and see some pictures of my past wrx IC install, and my current wrx IC install. Also, i've perfected a cold air intake, can be made for less than $20, filter not included. Ask Danbob99, we put one on his car this weekend.

I bet it would with some work. Haven't there been other people that have put EA82 manifolds on EA81's... Like Noahdl88? I imagine it would be the similar...

I agree with that 100% Eric. I need a safe place to tune my car so I can drive it quick through the twisties. Going out on HWY 99 and doing it jsut isn't working for me.

I'm pulling for it not to be in around May 9th. I really want to go, but I have already been scheduled to spend my Bday weekend helping my beautiful girlfriend move out of her apt. in Pullman.

Woo! Thats what I like to hear. It will be here for you till you can pick it up. Don't worry about me getting rid of it. PM me when it gets close to you coming. I'll give you my cell number and we can work things out over the phone.

Thanks for the tidbit Caleb, save me the trouble of digging through my pile of 'ish. New info tidbit for the turbo guys. Its said, that the biggest gains you can give a turbo is the shortest, straightest, smoothest path from the air filter, to the maf, to the turbo.

Ok, That all makes sense. Now... I have a feeling its because of how my vac. system is set up (on the engine side). I guess I'll try hooking them up a different way. Sometimes modifying is a pain in the arse! I just want my windows to stay clear.

I usually always drive with the heater controls in the DEFROST position, with the fan off. I've noticed as of late, that it will stop directing air there occasionally. If I have the heat on, in the Heat position, and then click it to the defrost position, it doesn't always seem to take. By playing around with it, i've found if the engine is in vaccuum it has a greater chance to switch. What could be the problem here? I'm pretty sure it has to do with the vaccuum actuated part of the system. It could very well be at the engine compartment end of things... I have messed around with the vac. lines quite a bit. Any insight would be appreciated!

I think a bigger throttle body(TB) would be wonderful. However, I think it will raise more issues than it will solve. I am one to believe, that its not our throttle body that is limiting, but our intake manifold. For this reason I upgraded to the Spider intake manifold. I believe that it flows better than the old style. I've never measured, but i'd be curious as to know if the TB of the Spider Intake is larger than the old style. I noticed terrific gains by switching to the Spider. Really helps the boost be delivered better. Seemed to have smoother throttle response. Oh, and it looks cooler!

'87 RX - Referred to as "The RX," "Damn Car," "Wheeee!" and "Damn that looks sexy" '86 GL Wagon - Referred to as "The Subby," "The Wagon," back in the day it was called "URABUS"

On SATURDAY, APRIL 10th PACIFIC RACEWAYS will be having a Test And Tune day. One of the the first of the season. Starts at 8am, runs all day. Some newer gen. guys should be there too. I'm going to go, throw down some 1/4's in the RX, hopefully be able to safely dial it in a bit. Hopefully show up around 9-10, get an early start. Syphon has expressed interest in attending, Danbob99 also has mentioned he'd be down. SubaruTex - Tex Syphon - Jay Danbob99 - Dan Anyone else in for a day of living... a 1/4 mile at a time!

Awhile ago, I made a trip across the mountains and retrieved some parts from Bacaruda (andy). Picked up an engine, LSD, SPFI wiring harness/TB, and an RX wing. Turbone was very prompt and picked up his engine. I delivered the LSD to Svengouli (Caleb) who was very nice to reward my efforts with a free drive shaft. This means, I still have a SPFI wiring harness, injector, and throttle body for The Scooby. I also have an RX wing for... Caboobaroo I think. If these are the right people, then you need to get in contact with me. I need this stuff outta here ASAP! Thanks.

I used... Front: xt6 lower arms, xt6 ball joint, xt6 spindle, xt6 rotor and caliper, GC8 struts, stock springs Rear: xt6 backing backing plate, xt6 rotor Now, when I did the conversion, i test fitted some Impreza parts, unfortunately, they weren't mine, so they didn't go on the car :-/ Yet!

We can try! I personally don't see a reason why they wouldn't. My concern would be would the ball joint work with the legacy spindle. I say lets give it a go!

The common ground happens a lot closer to the plug int he dash. At the point just before the wire goes into the doors is where you should splice in at. Take off the little kick covers in the footwells. You should see the above described connectors there. I would cut the factory wires, such so that you could still use the factory plug. Just incase you have to replace something in the future... Like a door or something. Hope that helps! Tex