Subarutex

Housing can't be rotated on the turbo because of the wastegate. Its not a custom hose... its a stock WRX aftermarket piece. I got that for $45 shipped.

After it runs :-p

Some more because it didn't like all of them at once:

Here's some pictures... I'll answer questions as they arise... these are each atleast a thousand words a piece :-p Discuss :-D

Please do not respond. I am putting this up so people can find it in searches. The last one had to be gassed because it got way off topic. Mods... is there a way you can lock this thread? If you have questions on specific matters regarding why these parts are the parts to use, if you think any of this information is incorrect, flawed, or downright absurd. Please PM me or email me. If I missed something.. please PM or email me! For the front of the car, you will need to change: Struts, lower control arms, spindles, brakes (calipers, rotors), hubs, and tie rod ends. For the rear, you will need: Backing plates, hubs, and rotors. Now I will break down which donor cars you can get the parts from. Front stuff: Lower control arms - XT6 2wd/4wd (the ball joint that fits in the right spindle is too big to fit in the stock arm) If using 2wd XT6 arms, please be advised there *may* be an issue mounting it to the crossmember. Hondasucks encountered trouble, I however did not. Spindle - XT6 2wd/4wd and GC8 Impreza Struts - XT6 2wd and GC8 Impreza (note that if putting imprezza struts onto the XT6 spindle, it is advised to grind the spindle down slightly for ease of fitment) Tie Rod ends - XT6 2wd/4wd Rotors - XT6 2wd/4wd and GC8 Impreza (please match rotors to which spindle you use) Calipers - XT6 2wd/4wd (even if you use the GC8 rotors, the calipers are identical, aside from the XT6's still have the ebrake in the front) Hub - XT6 and GC8 Impreza (please match hub to which spindle you use) Rear stuff: Hub - XT6 4wd Backing plate - XT6 2wd or 4wd (2wd requires modification) Rotor - XT6 4wd Calipers - XT6 or EA82 (they are identical, you can reuse your old ones if you have rear discs) There is the list. Again, if you have any questions, or feel that any of this information is wrong or misleading, please PM or email me. Thanks.

Could be simple as a leak in the plenum. Soon as boost comes on, it leaks out. So the car ends up runnning way rich. Check the tightness of the 2 rubber connectors. Maybe you took the plenum off when you did the plugs, and didn't get it seated properly...

Have you reset the ECU? May or may not help anything. Take of the neg. battery cable for like an hour or so. Seems to have helped with my car in the past. For $150 you can grab an SAFC and use that to tune the A/F. Its pretty effective too. Couple that with $100 fuel cut defender and you have yourself a simple system of piggyback computers to help control your engine. Yes, that is a crude method. But, its also cheap, and effective. For added safety you can pick up a Knock Link for close to $200 and that will let you know when your engine knocks. Gauges are cheap, you should be able to get a discount on them since you work at Napa. Also, i bring to the table that your detonation is could be caused by the shape of the combustion chamber you have created. SPFI pistons and turbo heads... what does that chamber look like? Perhaps thats the reason.

Looks good. Numbers are numbers. You can't deny facts. I have a couple of questions. I've tried to contact proECM to get pricing on an ecu for my RX. They haven't gotten back to me. How much did you pay for the power chip? Is it programmable at all? OH... and how do you get ahold of those guys! Good job. By anychance did you dyno your wagon then too? Interested to see what the turbo/nitrous would put down in that.

I'll be able to reproduce at my work... and since Syphon is my best bud... we'll get everyone setup

I was running without one in my RX. I was getting 3-4 inches of movement from the shifter when i accelerated and back pedaled. When the engine goes back in... it does too! However, my lifted wagon doesn't have one... and its been just fine. I spose thats cause the RX has a touch more torque.

You know me too well babe. I'm just bitching!

if you want to clean my f'ing garage... sure [rant] My damn mother decided it was the perfect time to start cleaning the attic. So there is **** everywhere. I'm not even bothering to work on the RX, probally be May before I get it running again. Should probally just sell it to someone that can work on it. [/rant] Jay, call me.

no, I haven't boughten one yet. I've gotten a few feet of the stuff from the local rice shop. Edrach got a kit from hosetechniques... I think he got the universal kit.

get some hose from hosetechniques.com redo all the vaccuum hosing. Thats my suggestion.

The only boost switch on the 87+ that I know of is the one that turns that little dash light on. Even so, the fuel mileage will still go down. More boost = More air which means more gas is injected. The SAFC i bought used for $125, the FCD I got for $80, had been purchased, but never installed. Shhh... but i'm currently inbetween motors. Cracked heater hose -> overheat -> no more head gasket, cracked heads But, i was running 13psi intercooled. Stock turbo, stock block, stock heads. I'm definately into the MS thing. Ignition isn't a huge deal with me... so just a barebones one would be best. Let me know when we want to get going on this... Something that HAS to be done for these engines to come to their full potential.

The fuel pressure regulator is not car specific... it is intake manifold specific. If you look at that mass of steel hoses underneath your spider intake, it is there. Gold in color, has a vaccum line and some fuel lines going to it. On a normal MPFI intake it is also on the steel hose mess. Off to the driver side of the mess. Are the injectors not firing? or are they not passing fuel? If they are firing, but not passing fuel... I'd think it was the regulator. If they just aren't firing... sounds like a sensor/wiring/ecu problem. Have you upgraded the grounding? Maybe consider reverting to stock to see if that fixes it. I doubt its the fuel cut, seriously doubt it. How it cuts out isn't fuel cut like...

As I believe... the fuel cut is only determined by the amount of air coming into the engine. So it is determined by just the MAF signal. After looking at the wiring diagrams... The ECU never know's what the manifold pressure of the engine is, because our cars have no MAP sensor. So, as the ECU see's an increase in airflow from the MAF, it increases the amount of fuel injected. It does this by taking the MAF signal voltage, the rpm signal and placing it against a premade database. So it takes the 2 inputs, sets it against the table of values... from that table it gets the amount of fuel to inject. Modern FI systems usually use both a MAF (mass air flow) and MAP (manifold air pressure) So, i guess there is no peak boost the ecu can take... there is a peak amount of air the ecu can take. The FCD is a voltage clamp circuit. It will let the signal pass unmodified until it hits the set voltage. If the input voltage is that, or higher... it will output the set voltage. For example... our FCD is set at 2.4 volts: MAF Voltage - What ECU see's 2.3v - 2.3v 2.4v - 2.4v 2.6v - 2.4v 3.0v - 2.4v 2.0v - 2.0v I hope this makes sense... There are cheaper alternatives to make an FCD. Here is a link to a site that has instructions to make your own: DIY FCD I bought all the necassary components to make this. I started assembling it, but partially through, via email with Skip, we discovered that this device requires a 5v reference signal. I got stumped, and happened upon a very good deal with the HKS FCD, so I got it. Skip was goign to work some of his elctromojo and get one of these to work... This reminds me I need to send my parts off to him... Hope this was informative.

bean... i picked up an HKS fuel cut defencer. I'm going to give that a go. Its basically just a voltage clamp that clamps at a certain amount. You set it right before the fuel cut voltage, and your set. Now, on my car, i run and SAFC (made by apexi) that modifies the MAF voltage so I can control (to a crude degree) the amount of fuel the car injects. So, i questioned the function of the HKS FCD. I wasn't certain if it would work, since i'm already modifing the MAF signal. After some email with Skip, we decided it would work best to have the FCD (voltage clamp) between the SAFC and the stock ecu. The ecu will cut the fuel if it sees a certain maf voltage for a preset time no matter what we do. Its right before the fuel cut that we get the most fuel out of our cars. The most we can do, is prevent the fuel cut from happening (with a voltage clamp) so we can drive through it and hope our gauges don't lie. We can then use a voltage modifier (like the apexi SAFC, and similar products) to control the ecu to inject fuel when we want it (up to the fuel cut amount).

Andy! My RX did the same thing! I never figured it out. Let me know if you get it solved. See you on Sunday. Call me.

Why jump brands? The WRX intercooler lends itself very well to be mounted in our cars. Not only that... since the after market for WRX's is so large, and there being so many front mount kits, and larger top mount intercoolers, the stock ones are getting really easy and cheap to find. I saw one last night, on ebay But It Now for $50. I won't tell you who got it, but it was someone here. Not only does the stock intercooler fit well, it also has a mount for a BOV/BPV. So fabbing a spot up for one is gone, just bolt it on! And again, because of the aftermarket for the WRX there are a plethora for BOV/BPV's we can get for it. Now that I said all that. Yes, i've looked at the RX-7's IC. In fact, i just about bought one... before i happened upon the deal I got my WRX IC at. Which was nearly a year ago... and I paid way to much ($150 i think). I agree that it would work pretty well. I am however that I went with the WRX one... there are soo many more options for us that way. It never hurts to see someone do it though. Don't want everyone's EA82T to look the same!

Use stock injectors for now. Yes, hook them up via a barb to the fuel hose. There are a wide variety of injectors we should be able to use in the future... when we find the limit of the stock injectors. Basically, the reason I offered to make the rails is to save everyone the hassle of having to get more rail than they need. I'm into just the 2ft of rail extrusion close to $40. Half of that, I won't use! $50 was just a bench mark, i gather they'll be much less. I'm not looking to make money at all. I am however looking to cover the costs of what needs to be invested. $40 for rails $20 for the tap? Haven't found one yet... NPT ones are hard to find I guess $10 for the fittings per car? I guess maybe i'll just sit on the stuff and let others invest and equal amount of money, and end up with things they won't use again. (how many times are you going to need to use an NPT tap???) To each his own. Follow the link above to buy your extrusions. I'm using Dash 6, other size is a little over the top for us I think.

Got an email back from Ross's Machie shop. He didn't really give me a quote for them to make them. Was honest with me, and said I could do it, same quality, and do it cheaper. That said, i went ahead and order 2 feet of the Dash 6 extrusion. I'm thinking now, that each rail will only need to be about 4" in length. So, i'll be able to yeild 3 sets off this order. The guy was nice enough to tell me what drill to use, and what tap to use. Once I get the extrusion in, and get paid... I might pick those things up. Unfortunately, i still have a life to lead... and money is in scarce supply. If I could sell a fuel rail kit for say... $50 would there be any interest? Kit would include fuel rails and fittings. Either NPT to Barbs (for rubber lines, or NPT to AN fittings (for steel braided hose). Hell, depending on cost I may be able to include the hose needed. Then all you would need is the pressure regulator. Cheers!

I know up here in WA... cars after a certain age aren't required to take emmisions tests anymore. 2 years ago, when I bought my '76 chevy truck, I thought I had to get it to pass emissions. Went, did the test... it did pass, but that really didn't matter, because I didn't have to to get it tabbed. Not sure if California has a similar system... but it would be worth it to check out.

I think that was the first ever post whore bump that actually accomplished something... go me!!!

If you will build me an MS... I will put it on my car. PM me. Now, i'm going to buy 2ft (the minimum order) of the fuel rail stock. By my math, that should be enough to do 2 engines. (2 rails per engine at 6" a piece). Before doing this I'm going to ask them how much it would cost for them to drill and tap the injector ports, and tap the ends to accept fittings. But this is all stuff that with a decent drill press and some time can be done by me. I'll go ahead and make both sets. After i get it running, i'll sell the other off, or use it as a guide that we can make more of them. So there is my $20 and a lot of time into this project... I'll let you know how it goes.