Subarutex

At this moment in time, I will be there. I'll make it the unveiling of my car...its undergone some transformations, and it should be done. Oh, and I'll bring you back your special socket thing, that I borrowed from Caleb.

Looks like you guys had fun. I'm super bummed I missed it. It sucks having two cars sometimes. Projects on one, get in the way of the other. I haven't been able to deduce what the problem is with the wagon. Fairly certain its being caused by running a nearly new SSR and a worn SSR in the front. Making all kinds squeeking type sounds, occasionally the smell of burning something (not oil, but not sure what). Hopefully by the end of this week I'll have some time to take a look at it. I know i'm going to get atleast one told you so from you guys for not properly rotating my 5th full size spare in... I just hope the diff is ok, so I don't have to go replacing the tranny.

The intercooler fits no problem under a stock hood. With the BOV, i have about an inch of space left above it. All the piping was gotten from home depot and schucks. From the turbo to the intercooler, i have a piece of radiator hose going to a copper pipe reducer, with another radiator hose going from that to the intercooler. From the intercooler to the intake, its all ABS plastic piping. The rubber things i found on the same aisle. Word of caution. Don't use the cheaper thinner light gray rubber things. They don't stand up to the heat or pressure. The MAF adapter for my intake was already on the car when i bought it from MikeW. I should post some updated pics of the engine compartment....

No problem. I'm still using it...will be a week or two before I get my new one made. Drop me an pm or email and we can talk. I might have a line on another intercooler (WRX of course).

Sorry, I'd be in, but the wagon is having some troubles. Think its the front diff, not sure yet though. Besides that, the girlfriend is in town, and I need to spend some quality time with her. Have fun guys.

So, this is what happened. I figured out that just the head of the bolt was stuck in the stub axle. The rest of the bolt was still threaded into the diff. But! no drilling was needed. They were less than hand tight and just spun right out. After it was apart, i ran to Caleb's to pick up Zap's torx socket. Got back home (about 10:45) took the bolts out of my spare diff, and threw those in. Good as new! Currently running boosted RX without rear axles. I have to have the diff locked to get it to go anywhere. Don't ask why. Just nod, you'll understand eventually Torque steer is fun! I can't imagine trying to drive a turbo honda, that would be scary! FWD+Turbo= no traction ever!

uh huh...sure mike! I know it was you! SO then...i pull the diff, take the cover off, and hope the bolt is just plain missing. I have an open diff in the garage i can scavange for parts. What is this special tool needed? that funny torx socket thing? I should probally fix the leaks it has too...huh?

Ok, for some reason, i won't go into it now, I wanted to take off my rear axles in my RX. When doing so...the axle stub slid right out of the tranny. What should i do?

I was thinking $40.... It cost me $30, just to have my buddy weld that up. But if that doesn't work, lets talk.

Hondasucks...because of my spider intake...I will be remaking my bracket. I will sell you my bracket...and all my premade hose stuff if you'd like. Pretty simple install. other pics here: My RX photo album Sorry for the size of the pic :-/

12-13psi Mods: WRX intercooler Spider Intake Cold air intake BOV (WRX, on the intercooler) Apexi SAFC (so i can richen the fuel mixture as long as the computer is still considering readings from the MAF) XT6 clutch and flywheel (last clutch went out...wouldn't hold the boost)

Ken, i totally agree with the fast car thing. I'm 21, and i'll admit, the RX is too fast for me. It does get me into trouble :-/ Its been a not so fun lesson to learn. Car is looking real good. I love those wheels.

Another bump, for the funness of the event is quickly spiralling down :-/

Come on guys...anybody?? Brian? You and your buddy in the jeep wanna go?

wow, cool. This should work. I'll let you know if i need the scan. Thanks a lot!!

Reiter run this sunday, 10/12. Please come. Details: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5367

Running to Reiter on sunday. Meet usual place, Monroe McDonalds at noon (thats 12:00 people!) Come one, come all! Don't worry, i know I kid myself, no one will show up.

Cams I wouldn't do. I almost did them when I had my engine out last month. I read and re-read, and read again Corky Bell's Maximum Boost. He states that the stock cam profiles are usually about as good as its going to get. The thing that hurts turbo engines is valve overlap, you want that at a minimum. The cams we have already have very little overlap. I think you'd be hard pressed to get a cam made that was more radical...and had less or the same amount of overlap as we have now. (we could have no overlap, i'm not certain) I looked at getting a torque ground cam (for more low end grunt), then at a HP cam (for the power band) and found that I couldn't guarantee and increase of performance...but i could guarantee different performance. I opted not to do it at this point. I think better gains can be made my bigger turbo, effecient intercooling, and new injectors. Had i taken my engine far enough down, i would have overbored the pistons, but why take apart good headgaskets when you don't have to. Its pretty daunting. (to me atleast) On the XT6 clutch. Very nice! The reason I had my engine out was to do the clutch. I ended up going with an XT6 flywheel, and a xt6 clutch. Its working beautifully for me.

::bump::

Where did you buy the redline at?

I'm in pretty desperate need of the pinout for the TPS on a 1988XT. I hear the NA and turbo ones are the same, so that doesn't matter. Needs to be for the MPFI w/ the spider manifold. Hope someone can help! Thanks.

Andy: My car was equipped with the 3 prong TPS. (main black connector on the black box) This turns out to be actually the idle switch connection. The TPS connection is a seperate 3 prong cylinderical white/yellow connector. First I had tried to wire a 4 prong (black connector on black box) NA TPS to my harness. Cut the connectors off the harness, wired the 4 prong plug on. Using educated guesses (from the FSM) to wire it. This didn't work. I was getting 100% throttle when the gas pedal wasn't even pressed. So enough gas for 100% throttle, but only idle air flow. Was passing a lot of smoke through, and the turbo started to steam. I think it was gas vaporizing as it hit the hot turbo. Second and current solution was to rewire my old TPS. I was able to wire up the 3 prong black connector no problem (found off another harness i had laying about) for the idle switch. However, i had thrown away the old cylinderical connector, so I just ended up cutting it, and using butt splices and some wire to connect up the TPS. I just matched color to color. Prior to all of this, i had removed the cover, and drilled a hole directly above the hole in the sensor so that I could mount it flipped over. I found some longer screws (had to cut them down to size actually) that fit, and used those to secure it. At first it seemed to work, but honestly i was still having too much fun actually driving my car, than paying 100% attention to all my gauges. Since I got it running, its always done the jolting thing. An example of my bad TPS: Driving through idaho, going 65, not in boost. A/F ratio about 13.5-13.7. Throttle reads 60%, i'm giving it probally about quarter pedal though, just to cruise. I go to pass someone. Kick it up to 12 pounds of boost, WOT...pedal on the floor. A/F goes through the roof....14.5-14.9 No good for a boost situation. Throttle reads 10%. I back pedal, giving up on passing this guy. I checked the TPS parked, with Monica looking at the % readout, to see what was up. Just wiggling the throttle cable made it hit 50% throttle readings. When not touching it, it would read 20%, or 45% sometims 5% (which is where it usually read at idle before the swap)

Andy, could you get me some pictures of your TPS's, and what you did to try and make it work? I have some sad news on my TPS battle. I thought it was working, but my TPS is crazy. The readings are all over the place (that i'm getting from my throttle % gauge on my S-AFC) This is making my car run a little leaner than usual. I'm 1200 miles through my 1500 mile journey. TPS hasn't been working right the whole time. No damage yet. Just have to watch the A/F on boost, cause its running way lean. However, i'm now getting incredible gas mileage. I'm fairly certian this is the cause of my lurching/lugging/surging however you want to describe it. Now, I need to deduce if its the TPS, or my wiring. The TPS end of my harness has been hacked up, and so has the leads on my TPS. Its hardwired now (no connectors). So I may be in need of another harness, aswell as another TPS. I'll keep you posted as to what happens when I get home. (i'm in Pullman now, leave tomorrow eveningish)

Skip: First I tried to wire up the TPS that was on the spider to my harness. This didn't work. As it turns out, NA and Turbo TPS's look different on the inside. NA being the one that was on the spider, only had one sensor arm on the inside. The one off my old manifold had 2 arms. So then I examined the differences besides the arms. Only one i found was the direction of rotation. So, to solve my problem, i took the cover off the original TPS, drilled a hole in it and mounted it so the direction of rotation matched. As far as guages, i have the following: Stock gauges, all functioning. Autometer boost gauge. Apexi Turbo Timer which has digital voltage gauge and 2 views of the A/F ratio. One being the voltage, and one being the theoretical values those relate to. I also have an Apexi SAFC (Super Air Fuel Controller). This has digital RPM, digital air flow, and digital throttle gauges. In my FSM, the black box on the side of the throttle body is called the Idle switch...or Idle sensor, can't remember which exactly. Also in this same unit (with a seperate cylindrical connector) is the TPS. I tend to interchange idle sensor, and idle switch I guess. If i had the tools, i'd test the resistance of the TPS, unfortunately I don't. What tool would you use? I assume this same tool would be widely used in other aspects of wiring, so it might be useful to pick up. Average price? Thanks.

OK, here is the car: 87 RX w/ intercooler and bov. Just added a spider intake. Problem: While driving when I stop accelerating and go to just cruise, the engine will jolt back, like i'm deaccelerating. Holding back. If I keep this even pedal pressure, it will surge back for a second, then hold back again. I have tried: Thought it was turbo lag because the BOV was vented to atmosphere. I added a bypass to it, so it dumps now right before the turbo inlet. I also thought it might be the way I had the throttle cable done. I changed it. Better feeling pedal now, which is a plus, but still the weirdness. Ideas: Could it be the idle sensor? Poorly adjusted, or bad wiring? Could it still be really bad turbo lag? Thanks for the suggestions.