Subarutex

I tried brake fluid and trans fluid. It was hard to apply in my situation, and I didn't feel it worked very well because of that. I tried heat, and scrapers. Worked okay, but left a lot behind. Also, was a bit of working constantly heating, then setting that down to scrape, repeat. I tried jellied aircraft stripper. The smell is intoxicating. Easy to use in my application. I smeared it on with a shop towel. Hour later I was able to scrape the bulk of the stuff off pretty easily. I then used my secret weapon. Knotted wire wheel in my grinder. Worked awesome! Wire wheel works at taking it off from the get go, however its quite messy. Much cleaner to just do the aircraft stripper first, then knotted wheel after you scraped the bulk off.

Outback trailing arm brackets should move the rear wheels back into the center of the wheel wells.

I'll make a you a good deal on my welded diff...

Rust got them, so I cut them off.

I have a vast majority of a bottom of a brat I need to remove undercoating from so I can do rust repair. How do you do it? What has worked? What hasn't? I'm thinking a propane torch, and whole bunch of cheap putty knives.

He has a SN on here, can't remember what it is though. Its my old RX.

I spent about $2k on my EJ22 swap... I could have done things nicer, but by no means did I cut any corners. This was in an '86 wagon, that the EJ22 drops into. In a Gen I brat, there will be some more fab work to get it to work, but I don't think it would be horrible. Really, its all a matter of how nice you want it to be. I could see material costs for this swap costing between $2k-$3k. (motor, wiring, radiator, driveline, metal, etc...) Labor is what is going to hurt this swap. If someone is charging you $100/hr labor... you'll burn through $3k in 30 man hours. I think it would be perfectly possible to do a decent swap job with that much time, but others may not. I wish I had the time and space to do something like this for you. If I did, I'd think $1500-$2000 labor would be perfectly reasonable.

Depends if you want boost or not. You are looking at $3000 or so for a WRX setup on the cheaper side. Qman here (Ken @ Delta Cams) put together a VERY peppy NA 2.5 motor. Somewhere I think there is a thread that says how much power that motor put down on the PIA dyno. His setup was a 2.5 block, STI oil pump, STI oil pan, 2.5 heads with some valve work and torque cams from Delta (they do both the cams and headwork). He used a Perfect Power 6 to do a tiny bit of tuning. I can imagine this setup would be a bit less than than $3000. And you'll have quick usable power... not just a ton of power up on the top in boost. I believe these heads at rallitek are the delta ones: http://www.rallitek.com/rasocyhe.html They also sell the Perfect Power: http://www.rallitek.com/rapeecu.html If interested in this setup, definitely talk to Ken @ Delta Cam and Sean @ RalliTek.

hahaha, probably was us!

No, this isn't an idea. This is fact. This is me telling you how do something and have a drivable enjoyable dependable car afterwards. Especially when are talking about boost. Your insistence on sticking with the 2.5 wiring and intake is only going to cost you more time, money, and more importantly a finicky undependable car that you will develop a hatred of. There are people that will do the wiring merge for you. Numbchux on here I believe does a pretty good job. Monstaru might even have wiring available still for a WRX. The cost of "lightly" building your motor you proposed, and getting the WRX stuff and swapping that in should be pretty damn close to the same. We are trying to help you make better decisions based on our past experiences, not just being dicks.

WRX heads, manifold, wiring, & ECU on that 2.2T block. You'll be happy, it will be tunable, and you'll do it correct the first time.

Woot! Monica and I took the Forester to Long Beach Vday weekend as well. Surprised we didn't see you... but your current Waterwagon is pretty bland. Needs camo, or pink wheels or something!

I'm thinking whatever it is... will involve a whole lot of work from this:

Yeah, i was in the same boat as you when I swapped my wagon. Its a carbed chassis too. I have yet to do a surge tank, but am still entertaining the idea. Its hard to say whether the problems I experience are related or not. Yeah, the first link is definatly a fuel filter from a largish truck, and the top think is your generic remote oil filter adapter piece, or something similar. Here is a great link on how to setup a system: http://sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm This setup looks similar: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-81794/?rtype=10 Someone on another board used this, the only mod they did was make the pickup tube inside it extend down farther.

I've looked at both of those, but I haven't put in a surge tank yet. Why do you think you need one?

Pics of 'the slab' required. There are lots of "the slabs" around. PS. I love the town name Zillah.

We have started planning. We've viewed one site, and are still considering some others. Date will be mainly determined by location availability. We strive for sometime between from Mid August - Mid September. As soon as we have announcable information, we will be announcing it in force.

My name is Tex. Not a whole lot of people remember it, but I used to offroad my wagon. I went from Open to Welded very quickly. I felt the car didn't go anywhere "cool" with it open, but that all changed when I went welded. Constant traction, made me feel unstoppable. As long as you are smart, you pretty much are! With both rear axles in, mileage goes down. When turning on pavement, it chirps/binds. I broke one stub axle, once. I drove welded (both axles in, TSL swampers) to Spokane... wheeled some, drove home, wheeled some, and then tried showing off for some friends with car flexed out and rear tire jammed into the wheel well. Tire hit car, I goosed it. Pop. Good thing about welded though... I pulled off the axle, and continued on my way! I also have owned an 2 RX's, both with LSD's. For road cars, they are amazing. Great in the wet. Keeps the car from pushing in the corners like the welded makes you. My old RX I took up plenty of logging roads, and it never failed to get me through. LSD's perform much better in snow than welded diffs. Car is much more predictable. For pure offroad performance, I recommend a Toyota and solid axles... or a welded rear diff. I recommend to make a list of what you DO with your car (not what you WANT to do, but what you actually use it for). One column for on road stuff, one column for offroad. Figure out which has the most, and install the appropriate diff. For pure onroad performance, I recommend a LSD rear diff.

I have a EA82 Wagon, with a ej22, manual steering, and an AWD RX box. Drives fine!

As someone that has a standalone EJ20... don't. I'd really try to go after the USDM swap route. With some wiring changes, and open source tuning you can easily get a JDM motor to work with it. Easier to tune, more drivability!

I hope you have a good engine management.

Keep the turbo in the stock location (unless you have twins, if thats the case, you'll be best to convert it to a single turbo setup). Start by running a Top Mount (TMIC) like Turbone and I. This is plenty of cooling for stockish power. Really, you don't need to go front mount (FMIC) till you are in the neighborhood of 300hp at the wheels.

Take the car down to your local exhaust/muffler repair place and have them put a whole new system on it. They'll be able to offer you solutions for cats, and mufflers to fit your performance, sound, and price range. Then, they will be able to take those components and bend up a custom exhaust so you have something that fits perfectly. Depending on components and such, should come in $300 or less. This would be a good time to have them tuck the exhaust closer to the body if you are lifted, or offroading it.

Will either of these cars be completed?

You actually don't have to destroy the cage, or cut the axle shaft to get it out. There is a snap ring at the end of the axle shaft INSIDE the joint. If you put the assembly in a vise, and use a slidehammer on the axle shaft, you can usually get the snap ring to pop off. Once the axle shaft is out, you just need to puzzle around with the cage and the balls till you can get everything out.