4x4moose

i don't mean to be rude but my haynes manual say you need to have the ac drain. but i'm kind of new to this, and i'm getting ready to pull my motor. so if i didn't have to drain or have a pro do it, all the better.

i'm getting ready to rebuild my egine in my 87 gl10, do to blown head gasket or craked head. i was wonder what i could do to get like 150 or maybe a little more. when she was running i could smoke a wv jetta(talk about an ego killer). i plan on running an inter cooler and fabing up a bigger crosspipe and maybe a strait 2" or 2.5" exhaust. i was thinkg about maybe 2 more psi of boost but i read some where that it had problems if you turn up the boost past stock.

i was wondering how rare turbod brats, cause i have seen one on my way to work for the past two days, and i've never seeen one before.black and looks like almost no rust

yeah i wanted to get a weber. so if i get what everone is saying, there are differnt size blocks.

as some of you may have seen in the for sale section that i want to run a carb on my 87 gl-10, why is this? i was told that i would have better mpg, less stuff i have to take off if i need to pull the motor for any reason. North West said this "there was never a carb manifold made for the dual port Turbo/MPFI heads. well i do have to replace the head gaskets do to some over heating, if there is no carb manifold. would make a matter if i changed the heads instead of just have machined? because its still an ea-82. so if i just took some heads off an carbed suby that it would matter, right? this is my first suby.

i have her running again, but i still have a water leak that that jb weld kind of sealed up, there is a lot more water pressure coming out of the same area, and i think i might have water coming out of my muffler but it could be from washing it cause ther are some small holes in places.

yeah i found out that it wasn't a blown head gasket. its like really close to the tranny on the driver side, goign to try and jb weld it. she starts but then she will die. like maf is unpluged. could i have damaged the maf if i didn't have an air filter on?

i think i have a blown head gasket, maybe a worped head, going to take it apart today and take a look at it. also have to get a busted bolt out of the thermosat that snaped when i have taking it off.

the fuel filter is like 2 months old, it got gloged well i was test driving it. other things i know about the car it that it cam failur for some reason i couldn't find out why, and the time belt was replace not to long be for i bought the car. for some reason the valvecovers seem to have some sort of part number written on the them with like a srachall.i was going to write down the number when i replace the gaskets but my hands were cover in oil and dirt.

87 gl-10, yeah i can take off the timingbelt cover,

my suby won't start, i've check for air,gas,spark and its all there. if it does start i have to keep my foot in it to keep it going and it still dies, i haven't got it to start in the past couple of days. i do have a gasket that is leeking water i'm not sure were it is i can see water, its kind of by the tranny, but i don't think that it would have any effect on it. see this all started after a day of mudding, when she started over heating and and cv shaft going out. i thought that it was overheating because to much mud was caked in the raidator, and low on water. so if any one has any ideas why she won't start it would be much help. i'm going to tow it to my dads house tomorrow so i can start taking her apart to fix that gasket.

i was wondering if any has any tricks to removing an oil pan gasket, like how to get to the bolts that the crossmember block. its on an gl-10, and what all do i need to remove to get the the oil pump to replace the gasket? i have taken a look at it yet, so i don't know if its going to be easy or not, is there some were online that i can find torque specs for valve covers, oil pan, and other things.