4x4moose

it looks like bad news. when i pulled the oil pan off i look at the crank and the connecting rods and they are cover in rust really bad. would i be better off buying a short block or jdm or replacing the crank and connecting rods, bearings?

dose gas drip from the venturi when that car is running? if so i would say you need to adjust your floats or they are sticking.

when i was cleaning my block tonight i saw some numbers scroibed in to the block. there are also some on my valve covers. could i have a jdm motor or junkyard replacement?

yeah just a bit cheaper, i could replace all 8 for the price i paid. well i haven't paid, i orderd 2 of them at that price of 38. i'll put a stop on that order. have you done busness with these people before?

i kind of thought that there would be bearings in there. just gose to show that im still new, and hla's are not cheap, the parts store gave me the wrong price. turns out there not 3 dollars but more like $38.

i would say it looks like grass. but i don't know what a emission reed valve looks like.

anybody, will the bearings on the cam be effected in a negative way if i soak it in a solvent tank or some thinner(mineral spirits)

well i finally got around to pulling the heads off and i have a few gustions. i was wondering how freely shoud my disty should turn by hand? it seems to tight and rough. couple of of the hla's do not pump up, i know there cheap i already order 4 of them, is there a way to get the old ones to pump? just to have spare ones. there is a large amount of surface rust on the in the cam tower(i'll try and get some pics to night), i was wondering if i soaked it in a sovevent tank if it would damage the bearings?

i've been looking for that same site, i saw it a couple of months ago. i want some for my wagon.

when i was taking my uppipe off i broke the stud off. its the one that holds that pipe to the block so it dons't slop around. it dons't look like i can take the stud out of the flange that mates to the turbo. so what can i do to fix this?

welcome to the board. i would say go with the ej22 for a swap. i going to do one in my hatch as soon as i get back to work so i can buy the motor.

what the hell were you doing miles? i don't plan on doing a whole lot of offroading with the wagon, thats what the hatch is for when i get done with it. allways like to hear that you can out run the sheriff in a suby.

sound like a fun mod to play with, i just need to get my self a newer soob.

well i think i'm going to run with out them as soon as i get the motor back in the car. i will try and make some kind of sheild for the bottom. thanks for everyones help

well i i think i could take care of the problem of guck getting in there, bend up some sheet metal at like a 90 degree, using the old t belt bolt holes just bolt it up. but i will take a look at it the next time i'm at my shop.

well i have a problem with the covers on the back. they seem have to melted. i had a hard time getting the bolts out, i have to chip some peaices off to get the bolts out and the cam gears have started to eat the back covers. the right side over i have to lift up really hard to get the belt off. sorry i forgot to tell you all this.

i was wondering if its safe to run with no timming betl covers, not even the center one or the ones behing the cam gears. i did a search and didn't find any thin helpfull.

sounds like a sweet swap. sorry i can't be of much help, i plan on doin a ej22 in my hatch this spring when i start working more

looks killer. how hard was it to weld up?

what is it that you are replacing a cluch cable in?

looks really clean. i have never seen 4 lug alloys that look like that.

yeah i think they will be able to tell what it is. unless they can't read.

well the control arm from the wagon is out of the question. so its off to the jy in the snow. only thing i can think to bring is a bfh and some lquid wrench. my brother said he used a splitingmal to brak the axle loose on the front of his hatch. any help would be f-ing cool.

i have found another control arm, but i can't get it off. its all unbolted, just cann't get the axle off from the diff or the brake drum. the pin won't come out of the axle and the hub won't come off of the axle. so what can i do, do i need a wheel puller? would a control arm from a ea-81 wagon be the same as my hatch? cause i know were there is a wagon that is a lot closer and i could make all the noise i want.

saw one on ebay a couple of weeks, motor and six speed gearbox. yes that would be absolute insanity. put that in a hatch and see what all those little hondas think