Midwst

Thanks for the help. Now I know what I'm dealing with.

I just looked at a car similar to that, except it also needed engine work. The guy was asking $700 and had several lookers. I passed. That was a 1992. So you might be able to sell it for $1000 if you are honest with the buyer. Maybe not. I don't know, maybe its worth a try?? It is a 1996 - that should be worth something! Is the engine good? Have you been changing the oil regularly? Timing belt up to date? If the engine is good and well cared for, it would definately be worth something. If the engine is bad too, than $700 is probably a closer bet. I have never heard of a tranny putting smoke out the tail pipe. Is that what is happening?

Well, I think I found the answer to my own problem. On the pre 1995 Subarus there is a bearing housing and axle seal on each side of the front differential. These housings cover the bearings themselves. The bearings are pre loaded....in other words, replacing them is not a job for a tranny novice like me! I have no intentions of pulling the front differential and rebuidling it. Perhaps I can R&R...remove the differential I have and install a junk yard variety. Will check on prices tomorrow. Has anyone else run across this before? Is there any problem with switching front differentials? I know one cannot swap crankshafts...but I am an engine person myself. I have no clue what complications might arise from switching differentials. Anyone? Thanks!

1991 Legacy, AWD: Okay, I will try this from a different slant, without all the confusing history. I have a bearing noise comming from my drive train area. Not the tires. Not the wheel bearing, but sounds like that. Heard louder when turning left, but heard all the time. Sounds like it is in the front end of the drive train, maybe more to the left side. Getting so bad that I am afraid to drive the car. any ideas? Thanks!!

I wouldn't worry about a little sludge, but metal shavings would be a big opps!

That's what I thought too, but several over tightening problems made me think it was the other way around. Maybe my snap on torque wrench needs to be recalibrated? Any physics students in the house?

The problem is that oil is getting on the timing belt. This weakens the belt. Since the oil leak is fairly new, that probably is not a big deal yet, but on that year Subaru, if the belt does break, it would be very bad. The price is similar to quotes I have been given for the same job. It does have to be done because of the timing belt, so it is just a matter of when. If you can afford it, I would recommend having it done before the trip. Have him replace the crankshaft seal too, since he's already there.

Does it have a squre hole in the middle like the older subarus? Then use a 1/2" drive ratchet, no socket.

My 1991 AWD Legacy has a worn bearing noise in the drive train. The noise sounds like it is comming from the center of the car or the left side, but I hear it loudest when turning left. It does not sound like is comming from the right wheel bearing. That's quiet. Replaced the tires (worn!), still there. I had accidently driven the car with a very loose outer left CV joint for quite some time. I didn't know it was bad, until it broke 100%. Replaced the CV shaft/half shaft or whatever its called. Also replaced the left wheel bearing, was afraid it had been damaged by busted CV shaft. Noise still there. I am now suspecting the the the front differential output bearings that supports the left CV shaft might be damaged. I am assuming there is a bearing there? It is getting louder quickly. Does this sound right? Is it a difficult job, or can I just remove the CV shaft and the seal on the side of the differential to access the bearing? If nothing else, could someone please tell me how many bearings are in the front differential? I am thinking there is one for each CV shaft and one for the main drive shaft?

Thanks. I will give those both a try.

Well, maybe its time to find a new car. I've been thinking of selling it anyway. The oil pump job is a lot of work! I've only had the car 3 years so I don't know if the previous owner replaced the oil pump seals/o ring at that time. Guess I need to do that if I plan to keep it. Why don't you recommend slick 50? Is there any other oil addative that would be a better choice? Thanks!

Actually, if you plan to work on the vehicle on a regular basis, I highly recommend buying a Haynes Repair Manual, available at many auto parts stores. Well worth the money - usually about $15. Lists all torque specs. A word of caution on torque wrenches; I found out the hard way that using a 3" or 6" extension with a ratchet makes the bolts much tighter than it says on the torque guage. Ruined a bearing that way. Sigh. Also if the torque wrench is dropped, it has to be recalibrated. Also, it should be stored without any tension/torque on it. You may already know all this, but hey, thought I'd throw it out there.

I'm not sure if I can help you, but do you have any idea what the tube was that you moved out of the way? Can you trace it back to its source? Also, how many miles on the car? Did you switch from regular trans fluid to synthetic? how did you check the fluid level after you were done?

Sometimes, when I first start it up, it takes the engine longer than I would like to quiet down. I am very familiar with the sound of a dry engine or low oil pressure. Plus the oil light stays on longer than it used to. Maybe I'm just being paranoid. The car has 189,000 miles. I know that the Loyale had a lot of problems with low oil pressure, especially during cold start up. I don't know if the same is true for the Legacy.

I have heard that some subarus have problems with head gasket leaks and piston slap. Is this true for the 1991 to 1993 2.2L engines? Also, sometimes my 1991 2.2L does not get oil pressure right away when started...cold or hot. Has anyone run into this before? Added some heavier weight oil and slick 50. Am waiting to see if that fixes the problem. Thanks!!

I know there have been many postings on torque binding and how to fix it. My question is a little different. I am looking for a used car and want to know everything that I can about discovering a tranny problem. I know about the shudder at slow speed turns. I also know about the yellow tranny power light. What else should I look for regarding torque binding and possible Duty C solenoid damage?

Wow. Thanks!

I have a 91 Legacy w/o air bags. The steering column tilts, but only locks into place at the lowest setting. Not good if I gain weight! Anyway, has anyone encountered this before? Can it be fixed, or do I have to replace the column? Thanks.

What causes torque binding in automatic AWD transmissions? how can it be prevented? I have heard that a power flush of the transmission sometimes helps stop the binding. Most importantly, when I buy my next used Subaru, how can I find out during the test drive if the transmission is bad. I am looking to buy a car now and I don't want to make the same mistake as I did with the last one!!

Thanks. I had a feeling it was a bad sign.

Why do people run their AWD Subarus in FWD? Does this help the transmission last longer? I know that the transmissions seem to fail first on these cars and I want to do whatever is possible to give it long life. Does it hurt the tranny to run it in FWD only for long periods of time?

I think my parts supplier should have the O ring?? Thank you for the info. What would cause a leak like this? I am wondering if the previous owner neglected the car. It only has 120K miles. Maybe its just old. Sigh.

Yeah, I guess the 180' off thing may not matter on a flat four. Thanks for the correction.

I have a 1991 Legacy, 2.2L, SOHC. It has a massive oil leak in the front. Too much oil to be a crankshaft seal, I think. Looking at the manual, I am guessing that the oil pump housing gasket is leaking. Does this sound right? the oil is dripping from the bottom edge of the timing belt cover. Lots of oil. If I do replace the oil pump gasket, do you recommend using RTV? Black RTV? Or just put it on clean and dry? Thanks.

This is good news, because I am looking at a 1993 Legacy, SOHC, 2.2L. Sounds like if the belt brakes, it won't be a total loss. Cool. Thanks.