Midwst

One more word of caution: If the camshafts are off by 1" or less, it is much better to roll the camshaft sproket backwards a tiny bit, than rotate it all the way around.

First things first: You will have to remove the timing cover again. With a wrench or socket, turn the engine at the crankshaft by hand. Turn it until the marks line up. Then turn it again until the marks line up again to double check. Do they line up?The marks can be a tiny bit off, I allow about 1/8", some people allow up to 1/4" on the camshaft sprokets. The crankshaft needs to be right on center. If they don't line up, you MUST remove the timing belt and realign everything. When the job is done: If you do take the belt off again, after you put everything back together, turn the engine several times by hand to make sure it is okay. Then put the cover back on. The camshafts turn at twice the speed of the crank shaft. If you turned the camshaft sprokets around one turn after removing the timing belt, there is a possibility that you are 180' off. In other words, the #1 piston may be at BDC (bottom dead center) instead of TDC (top dead center). To check this, disconnect the battery and remove the timing belt cover. Turn the engine at the crankshaft (with a wrench or socket) with the belt on. Turn untill it looks like all the marks are aligned. Then remove the #1 spark plug. Insert your pinkie finger or a short extension. You should be able to touch the top of the piston. I don't know if the subaru has interfacing valves, so I give this next advice with a word of caution. If you cannot touch the top of the piston, the timing belt will have to be removed, the camshafts turned one turn, then line up all the marks again and reinstall the belt.

I was wondering, on Subarus, if the timing belt brakes, does it distroy the valves? Some types of engines can survive broken timing belts and some can't. I am not sure where subarus are in this area. Thanks.

One more question: Do I need a special "kit" to switch over or can I just unbolt one style and bolt in the other style? Do I have to replace both the front and rear suspension at the same time? I suspect that if I remove the rear air suspension, that the front might not work right either. Any ideas?

A car needs four things to start: fuel, fire, compression and computer. So yes, it sounds like the timing might be off. Did you make sure your timing marks were aligned? Did you turn the motor at all with the timing belt off? Good luck.

No, that's right. all that needs to be done is replace two schrader valves (like tire valves...sort of) and vacuum the system out for a long time. This pulls the old R-12 out and the moisture. This assumes there is no leak. If a leak is found, probably and O ring, that is fixed first, then the vacuuming. Then a new oil is added along with the new R-134a. Considering the time to fix the leak, and vacuum the system, $64 does sound low, but not impossible. If the system was vacuumed out properly, for at least 15 min, perferably much longer, there should be no further problems.

I am thinking about buying a 93 Subaru Legacy with electronic suspension. The rear struts are shot. From what I understand, the parts are dealer only $$$$$. Can I remove the electronic suspension in just the rear and instal cheaper combo of springs and struts? If I switch the rear to non electronic suspension, do I have to switch the front too? Thanks.

I am thinking of buying a 93 Subaru with electronic suspension. The rear suspension is shot. The parts dealer tells the struts are dealer only $$$$. Can I retrofit the suspension by installing regular springs and struts?