Midwst

Put me down for a maybe. If I get my Subaru put back together in time, I'll be there. 1 person, 1 car, but maybe not a Subaru??

I prefer an engine compression test to check for head gasket leaks. Never fails.

avk, I guess that means that the rubber part can wear out? My car has 15 years and 187K miles!

The 95 uses different parts that the 91. One more question, can the tensioner and idler pulleys be reused if the crank pulley came loose? Thanks.

At 165K miles, I would recommend replacing the engine with a gently used one. Problem is that you must do a compression check on the used one first, to be sure it doesn't have the same problem! I can usually buy a gently used engine for around $350 to $550 plus shipping. Actually, I think most junk yards might do a compression check ahead of time anyway to make sure the engines are okay. Definately want to clean/flush the coolant system really well too. I'd buy it myself, but not sure it would make the drive across the midwest to Iowa. Is it an automatic? Good luck.

I think it depends what year of 2.2L, Mine is a 1991.

Actually cleanlines has nothing to do with a shop's capabilities. If you have trouble getting clear and straight forward answers from the service department, that could be a warning sign. But I would check with the better business bureau for their complaint record. See that the complaints filed are few and were resolved. On a head gasket job, I highly recommend using subaru factory parts. Its not a job anyone wants to do twice. The dealer isn't a bad choice, especially for head gaskets, first because they have mechanics that specialize in engine work, usually, second, because if they screw it up, you have more leverage to complain. I would ask the dealer who their best engine tech is, then specifically request that tech to fix the car. You can also ask how many years the tech has been a mechanic and ask if she/he is ASE engine certified. That should help. BTW, I would also recommend an engine compression check to confirm the head gasket diagnosis...also check the engine oil, if it looks like it has chocolate milk shake mixed in with it, its definately a head gasket!

Thanks guys. One other question: does the harmonic balancer part ever wear out? I know that on some GM cars, there is a rubber part in the harmonic balancer that starts to degrade/crack and wear out. I don't know if this is true for subaru.

If a crankshaft bolt works loose and ruins the crankshaft, is the pulley and related parts still okay? Asking because I will be using some used parts on my engine job. I'm thinking they'd be fine, but wanted to check. Thanks.

Could possibly be oil dripping onto the exhaust. Crank the wheels and check it warm in park. If you think it's comming from inside the engine, a compression test will help you diagnose the problem, like bad rings.

The belt could be slipping. But its probably the alternator. A quick trip to Autozone or someplace...they'll test it for you if you don't have a volt meter. A used one...subaru origional...might be better than a cheap aftermarket. Sometimes they tank prematurely. Also check to see if your connections to alternator and battery are tight...but DO NOT over tighten the tiny 10mm nut at top of alternator. Will break the stud. Not good.

good point!

I don't know how the Impreza brakes are put together. On my Legacy, there is a tiny set of ER brake shoes underneath the rear rotor. The stupid shoes kept getting stuck, just from driving in reverse. Not even using the ER brake. Every 3 months I'd have to take the rear rotors off and adjust the ER shoes. I guess I should have just replaced the return spring kit, since that was probably the cause. Anyway, I don't need an ER brake in Iowa, so I just removed the ER brake shoes entirely. I tied the cable end up with some wire and have been happy with it ever since. You probably have a broken or weak return spring. Changing the rear ER brake shoes and return springs may do it, but also take a close look at the ER brake cable, there is a small chance that the cable is binding or damaged. A cheaper option is just to have the ER brakes adjusted...see if that fixes the problem. Strongly recommend Raybestos brand ER shoes, the made in China crap is so out of spec, it doesn't even fit right sometimes. BTW, if you don't fix it, it may reduce gas milege and maybe even overheat the rear brakes if they are hanging up. Don't wait too long.

So far this summer, every job I've done, I've done twice because of parts problems...poor quality, bad fit, etc. I will gladly spend the extra money to make sure there aren't any problems. I'm worn out from all the car trauma.

I found a NAPA dealer in a town nearby, my roomate commutes there, and can pick it up for me. Like the idea of the anerobic sealer. Do I apply it just like RTV, in the same thickness? Never worked with the stuff before. Thanks.

Could someone maybe get the PERMATEX part numbers for me for the anerobic sealer and activator? None of my parts stores in Cedar Rapids sell the stuff. I will have to order it or go to a different store. No NAPA in Cedar Rapids anymore. Thanks!

303 has many different products. Which one specifically do you use? Will it help prevent dry rot/cracking on tires? I guess maybe I should spend some more time on their web site, but am being lazy. Thanks.

I am looking for a product to put on my tires to help protect them from the sun. I know there are petroleum based prodcuts...but I suspect those can harm the rubber. I'm leaning towards a silicone spray, but wanted to get other's imput. Thanks.

I've used RTV enough times to feel quite comfortable with it, but the anaerobic sealer idea interests me. Is there a brand name? If I go to a good parts dealer and just ask for anaerobic sealer will they know what I'm talking about? Are there different knds like RTV?

Now I'm a little confused. The dealer told me that the only thing they ever use on the oil pump is the grey RTV. Why would they use it, if it were a bad choice? Yes, my real interest is in the oil pump. Although I usually add a dab of black RTV to the threads on the bottom water pump bolts...but that is on other types of cars. Never done a water pump on a subaru.

Interesting update... apparently the cause of a stiff shift cable on the automatics is a ground problem! The dealer says that the ground connection gets loose...several possible locations...and then the tranny starts finding its ground through the shift cable, burning it from the inside out. Have to fix the ground first, then replace the cable. Back to work.

Has anyone here used the gasket with the 2.2L?? I just can't believe the 4-5 ft lbs on the oil pump bolts either. Just sounds....loose.

even lug nuts are tighten more than 76 ft lbs...unless its a geo metro. Like the 125 idea.

How thick of a bead of RTV would you recommend? 1/4" or just a thin line along the sealing surface and around each bolt hole. Thanks.

Would like to know what people use at the dealership. Someone said 103 ft lbs on the 1.8L engines. That the factory manual specs were too low.